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Stone Chip?


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#1 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:29 PM

Onto bare metal or....
Etch prime first?


Or as I will be doing. Hammerite, first or second?

Metal has been ground back to remove rust. Any rust has been " treated" so stone chop and them hammertite or hammerite then stone chip then hammerite?

Sorry no other options.

#2 Tupers

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:33 PM

I normally zinc prime then schurtz. 



#3 geoff-d

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:38 PM

Etch, seam, chip, paint, 



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:48 PM

Etch, seam, chip, paint,

One day I will remember that.

#5 sonikk4

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:56 PM

You need to make sure any etch primer has flashed off or you will get a reaction. Been there and its a pain.



#6 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 09:57 PM

You need to make sure any etch primer has flashed off or you will get a reaction. Been there and its a pain.


Soooooo what is etch primer in german! Not that I can get any till Monday.

#7 sonikk4

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 10:23 PM

Basically Etch primer attaches itself to clean bare metal by etching itself into the metal (acid type of thing) this obviously gives good adhesion allowing you then to spray whatever you like on top. This does need to flash off properly as anything on top of it especially Stone chip will react.

 

Sorry but my German is limited however Haftgrund



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 10:30 PM

Basically Etch primer attaches itself to clean bare metal by etching itself into the metal (acid type of thing) this obviously gives good adhesion allowing you then to spray whatever you like on top. This does need to flash off properly as anything on top of it especially Stone chip will react.
 
Sorry but my German is limited however Haftgrund


Ahhhh I had just read that as primer.

It is amazing how many of the shops don't actually know what is what.

Been trying to buy a welding cap! No one has any. So ebay and guess a size.

Typical me trying to do things right in the wrong part of the EU.

But have found a local motor club....

#9 sonikk4

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 11:13 PM

The issue i had when living in Germany is technical German is different to standard German. I was given by Lufthansa two dictionarys one technical German to standard and vice versa??? Also on their Intranet they had online convertors which was handy.



#10 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 11:20 PM

There is a good Haynes english to german. Online. But the mad thing is that I work in the Auto industry but the people I work with don't play cars.......

I am getting places with some of the parts places but......

Even the Mini clubs members seem to get work done rather than do it them selves.

#11 sonikk4

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 11:32 PM

Around Gutersloh where i was stationed late 80's early 90's there were quite a few auto factors there and all stocked lots of paint, body scultz etc but i believe since then they became more draconian on what you could do to your car. I do know around there were several scrap yards with cars that would have passed a UK MOT. Crazy mad on rust for the TUV. We could pick up MK2  2 Door Escort for 250 DM in those days with limited rust.. 



#12 nicklouse

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 11:38 PM

Been reading and asking about the TUV and it is a bit odd. I am just hapoy this is race car. And My road car is quite new.

But when looking for stuff that I would call normal ( 12 years in Sweden and British) it is not easy and expensive.

#13 Steve220

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 01:46 PM

Onto bare metal or....
Etch prime first?
Or as I will be doing. Hammerite, first or second?
Metal has been ground back to remove rust. Any rust has been " treated" so stone chop and them hammertite or hammerite then stone chip then hammerite?
Sorry no other options.


Shame you're using hammerite, Im still not convinced it is a product for cars as it reacts with a lot of other products and 'melts'. Using something like rust bucket straight onto bare metal, leave to cure for 2 days then shutz underseal leaves a very strong, very protective flooring.

#14 nicklouse

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 05:36 PM

Onto bare metal or....
Etch prime first?
Or as I will be doing. Hammerite, first or second?
Metal has been ground back to remove rust. Any rust has been " treated" so stone chop and them hammertite or hammerite then stone chip then hammerite?
Sorry no other options.


Shame you're using hammerite, Im still not convinced it is a product for cars as it reacts with a lot of other products and 'melts'. Using something like rust bucket straight onto bare metal, leave to cure for 2 days then shutz underseal leaves a very strong, very protective flooring.

What is this "Rust Bucket" you mention?

#15 Steve220

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 07:00 PM

Onto bare metal or....
Etch prime first?
Or as I will be doing. Hammerite, first or second?
Metal has been ground back to remove rust. Any rust has been " treated" so stone chop and them hammertite or hammerite then stone chip then hammerite?
Sorry no other options.


Shame you're using hammerite, Im still not convinced it is a product for cars as it reacts with a lot of other products and 'melts'. Using something like rust bucket straight onto bare metal, leave to cure for 2 days then shutz underseal leaves a very strong, very protective flooring.

What is this "Rust Bucket" you mention?

I hate predictive text :( rust bullet. Used quite a bit in the restoration scene http://rustbulletuk.com




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