14 replies to this topic

[robminibcy]

Hi I'm trying to polish up some parts for the new engine such a a rocker cover, flywheel housing and clutch cover. I have cleaned the parts and tried to use autosol metal polish however its not really enough. There are areas that look like rust staining and feel rough to touch or some corroded areas that the metal polish wont move. Are there any tricks to getting ut off with out leaving scratchy marks?

[robminibcy]

Should add I only really have hand tools, I have a very small low powered dremel but not really any attachments that will be suitable.

[Cerberus]

We bought one of the aluminium polishing kits from Halfords that goes into a drill.

 

Worked pretty good on what we did.

 

Wet sand the area first, working up from course to fine grade, then polish.

 

 

It just takes some time, which is why my Dad did it as I haven't got the patience,

[Sawyer]

Hi you really want a drill or a 4 half inch grinder with a polishing mop and soap/polishing compound.
Use these to achieve desired shine and then maintain regularly with autosol.

This is the sort of thing but you would require at minimum a cordless drill.
Polishing mop:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221222531423
Compound:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221159555474

There are different grades of soap but I would recommend using the white one as you are just buffing up Ali that has already been polished, it's a fine compound so great for what your wanting to achieve. To remove scratches use a course compound and work up to fine.
Remember to cover anything you don't want to get filthy and wear glasses or a full face mask as polishing is very very dirty work!
Don't work in the same area too long as you will burn and mark the work piece and finally use acetone and a rag to remove remaining compound residue, definitely the easiest way.

If you want to know anything else ask and good luck :)

[Carlos W]

Autosol is too abrasive to get a really decent shine, but too smooth to sort out the corrosion.

[Tamworthbay]

You will need an abrasive paper to get rid of the corrosion. Nothing too harsh, P1200-2000 is ideal. Then a decent polish. I have to admit that I use autosol for everything and get a nice mirror finish with it. I always start with wire wool, autosol and a spray of wd40. It seems a magi combination. Then finish off with a smear of autosol on a mop. My wheels are genuinely like mirrors having done that. I have the soaps that came with the mops but don't find them as good. Not sure if autosol has changed over the years, mine is a 2kg tun I bought twenty odd years ago in Bournemouth. Only a quarter way through it now.

[ANON]

if you've only got hand tools you're pretty much stuffed i'm afraid. as a general rule if you are using a grinder to polish with and you can stop it by pushing against it when you are polishing then it isn't powerful enough. 

 

you need an abrasive compound (mix of abrasive and glue) on a mop/wheel to start with to get rid of casting marks etc and then sisal wheel with compound and work softer from there. i normally use a 6-8 stage polish plus prep beforehand. 

it's the same as bodywork, prep is the key.

[robminibcy]

Cheers for the advice, I've started with some wet and dry and is looking better already. to be honest I'm not sure that power tools would help with the parts I have anyway, I've started with the fly wheel housing which is covered in lumps bumps bolt threads ect so I don't think a power tool would be a huge help. I will wet flat down finer and finer then have another go with autosol. When its done would something like a wheel sealer help protect against corrosion and keep dirt away when its back on the engine?

Would it be worth going over with brasso after auto sol? Ir seems to be much less abrassive?

[ANON]

if you're doing it by hand it won't matter. if you want to seal it use belgom chrome.

[Coxie]

I used autosol on a green scotch brite pad and then finished with the autosol on a wool dremmel wheel.

[ANON]

also you can't cut/colour when you do it by hand.

[robminibcy]

also you can't cut/colour when you do it by hand.

Are you referring to paint here? The components are just bare ally which I intend to keep them as, only a bit cleaner and nicer looking Tha they are now! I'll stick some picks up of progress tomorrow.

[ANON]

 

also you can't cut/colour when you do it by hand.

Are you referring to paint here? The components are just bare ally which I intend to keep them as, only a bit cleaner and nicer looking Tha they are now! I'll stick some picks up of progress tomorrow.

 

 

 

you go against the rotation of a polishing wheel to cut and with the direction to polish.

[Guess-Works.com]

To polish something up, I would first get it cleaned and glass bead blasted. That will give you a very clean surface to start polishing... However, it'll take forever..

 

If you can find a local company which has what's called a tumbler.

 

 DSC_0375.jpg   73.3K   18 downloads

[Tamworthbay]

To polish something up, I would first get it cleaned and glass bead blasted. That will give you a very clean surface to start polishing... However, it'll take forever..
 
If you can find a local company which has what's called a tumbler.
 
DSC_0375.jpg

I have a small tumbler that I use for small bits. It's designed for cleaning ammunition cases. I use coconut shell grindings as a media. Works a treat but only on small stuff. Made by lyman I think, I bought if off ebay second hand for a tenner. Looks like an enormous orange on a stand.