24 replies to this topic

[Guess-Works.com]

First of all are you sure you have Hardy Spicer shafts and not Crucifix shafts ( big rubber crucifix ) as it'll make quite a difference to what you need...

But primarily you will need a set of Pot joint drive shafts and a pair of pot joints..

You will then need to remove the engine so that you can remove the differential from the gearbox.. If you have crucifix joints you keep the diff output covers, if you are running hardy spicer you will also need a pair of diff side covers for the pot joints..

You will also need 2 x pot output shafts which will need to replace the previously installed output shafts.

[Globule]

First of all are you sure you have Hardy Spicer shafts and not Crucifix shafts ( big rubber crucifix ) as it'll make quite a difference to what you need...

But primarily you will need a set of Pot joint drive shafts and a pair of pot joints..

You will then need to remove the engine so that you can remove the differential from the gearbox.. If you have crucifix joints you keep the diff output covers, if you are running hardy spicer you will also need a pair of diff side covers for the pot joints..

You will also need 2 x pot output shafts which will need to replace the previously installed output shafts.

Thanks for your response, rather than confuse matters more I just went for photos to show what I have as it will be easier to see what I mean. Is there a difference in the shafts between crucifix and HS?

Essentially what would I need to remove from the box which would allow me to then fit the whole setup to a later box which has pot joints currently, or can it not be done?

[Spider]

Thanks for your response, rather than confuse matters more I just went for photos to show what I have as it will be easier to see what I mean. Is there a difference in the shafts between crucifix and HS?

Essentially what would I need to remove from the box which would allow me to then fit the whole setup to a later box which has pot joints currently, or can it not be done?

 

 

What you have is commonly referred to as Rubber Uni Joints (for obvious reasons).

 

The Diff output 1/2 shafts between the ones fitted for the Rubber Unis and the Pot Joints are different.

 

To swap from one to the other, you can remove the Diff from the Gearbox (while leaving the Gearbox bolted up to the engine), swap the 1/2 Shafts on the bench and then refit the Diff. It would be a very good idea to overhaul the Diff while it was out and re-bush the Side Covers, Reaming them to suit your Pot Joints.

 

To remove the Diff, undo the Nuts that hold the Output Yokes (the do-dad that the Rubber Uni fits in to) on to the 1/2 Shafts, don't chock them against the Gearbox Case though when undoing them. You can hold them fast with a Big Shifting Spanner or put 2 longer bolts through 2 holes of the Yoke, then a lever between the 2 bolts, or, make a tool to hold them.

 

Then remove the side covers.

 

Then undo the Knuckles for the shifter on top of the Diff Cover. Take a Photo of them to help you put them back the right way, though, they can only be indexed in one position, relative to the shafts, as the shafts are scalloped for the pinch bolts.

 

Then remove the the Diff cover and pull the Diff out from the Gearbox.

 

To disassemble the Diff, you'll need to pull the Bearing off the Crown Wheel (and the other side if you are replacing it), then undo the 6 bolts on the Crown Wheel. That will allow you to remove 1 of the 1/2 shafts. If you look at the Diff Cage, you'll see it has a Pin in it it could be a solid steel pin or a roll pin, depending if it's been overhauled before (it will be a Roll Pin in the diff with the Pot Joints), you need to punch that out from the non-machined side. If it is a Roll Pin, be sure to use the right sized punch or it will jam in the Pin. Once that Pin is out, remove the Centre Pin, these usually need a bit of a Tap, then all the internal parts will lift out and the last thing is the other 1/2 Shaft.

 

Removing the Pot Joint 1/2 Shafts is much the same as that above, only, there'll be no Shift Knuckles to remove.

 

Re-assembly is pretty much a reverse of that above, only, be sure to use new gaskets and you'll also need to shim up the Diff when re-fitting it to the Gearbox. There's another thread currently running on how to do that;-

http://www.theminifo...utput-housings/

 

[Globule]

Thanks Moke, this is all new to me as you may have gathered.

I wanted to run hardy spicers so I gather these parts are all essentially wrong, can I replace the coupling on the end of the drive shafts for the HS joint or are the shafts different as well?

Will the side covers from the transmission rubber joint outputs be suitable for the HS outputs?

[nicklouse]

Thanks Moke, this is all new to me as you may have gathered.

I wanted to run hardy spicers so I gather these parts are all essentially wrong, can I replace the coupling on the end of the drive shafts for the HS joint or are the shafts different as well?

Will the side covers from the transmission rubber joint outputs be suitable for the HS outputs?

to be honest the pots are the best joints to use. 
 

but yes the X type shafts can be used with the Hardy spicer joints.

[imack]

There are several different options available with hardy spices, all are compatible with the rubber coupling drive shafts.
You've got the original cooper s version that use output shafts with a bolt in the centre that together with a pair of collets secure the output flange to the output shaft. These require the use of cooper s gearbox side plates with a larger diameter bush than a rubber coupling or pot joint version.
Then there's a relatively rare factory output flange that was fitted to the last of the automatic minis that were fitted with hardy spices. Externally this output flange looks like the bolt on cooper s version but its actually a 'knock on' version that fits to a pot joint output shafts but it still requires cooper s gearbox side plates with the larger diameter bush.
Lastly there's the MED / Swiftune output flange that fits to a pot joint output shaft but has a standard mini outside diameter and can be used with standard mini gearbox side plates.
These will all mount to the standard hardy spicer joint.

Cooper s setup (top)

Knock on setup (bottom)

Attached Files

•  20171113_172617.jpg   46.99K   7 downloads
•  20160820_084726_resized.jpg   34.83K   4 downloads
•  20160820_095909_resized.jpg   53.46K   3 downloads

Edited by imack, 28 August 2020 - 08:46 PM.

[nicklouse]

There are several different options available with hardy spices, all are compatible with the rubber coupling drive shafts.
You've got the original cooper s version that use output shafts with a bolt in the centre that together with a pair of collets secure the output flange to the output shaft. These require the use of cooper s gearbox side plates with a larger diameter bush than a rubber coupling or pot joint version.
Then there's a relatively rare factory output flange that was fitted to the last of the automatic minis that were fitted with hardy spices. Externally this output flange looks like the bolt on cooper s version but its actually a 'knock on' version that fits to a pot joint output shafts but it still requires cooper s gearbox side plates with the larger diameter bush.
Lastly there's the MED / Swiftune output flange that fits to a pot joint output shaft but has a standard mini outside diameter and can be used with standard mini gearbox side plates.
These will all mount to the standard hardy spicer joint.

Cooper s setup

What are the two big discs bottom right?

[imack]

There are several different options available with hardy spices, all are compatible with the rubber coupling drive shafts.
You've got the original cooper s version that use output shafts with a bolt in the centre that together with a pair of collets secure the output flange to the output shaft. These require the use of cooper s gearbox side plates with a larger diameter bush than a rubber coupling or pot joint version.
Then there's a relatively rare factory output flange that was fitted to the last of the automatic minis that were fitted with hardy spices. Externally this output flange looks like the bolt on cooper s version but its actually a 'knock on' version that fits to a pot joint output shafts but it still requires cooper s gearbox side plates with the larger diameter bush.
Lastly there's the MED / Swiftune output flange that fits to a pot joint output shaft but has a standard mini outside diameter and can be used with standard mini gearbox side plates.
These will all mount to the standard hardy spicer joint.

Cooper s setup

What are the two big discs bottom right?

Thats a picture I took when I was selling my S hardy spicers and twin cross pin diff. I think they're the shims between the output shafts and diff cage.

[Spider]

Thanks Moke, this is all new to me as you may have gathered.

I wanted to run hardy spicers so I gather these parts are all essentially wrong, can I replace the coupling on the end of the drive shafts for the HS joint or are the shafts different as well?

Will the side covers from the transmission rubber joint outputs be suitable for the HS outputs?

 

Oh, sorry !  I mis-read your question.

 

Yes, you'll need to also swap the Diff Side covers, as Nick and Imack have covered and as nicely shown in Imack's great pictures.

 

Though, as Nick suggested, these days, I'd suggest Pots. If you have all the HS parts, it's not so bad, but many parts for these are no longer available and those you can get are very expensive. Pots are fine.

[timmy850]

Here’s my photos of swapping rubber cross joints to Hardy Spicer

Remove these
 CEBAC977-AB9A-4F19-AE6C-DEC479385470.jpeg   63.2K   4 downloads

Add these
 E18D7175-83FE-46C4-91C2-88B56DF8729F.jpeg   59.6K   3 downloads

And if you swap from rubber cross to pot joints you need these
 B02967CD-2D35-404E-84AA-85DC23EA247B.jpeg   43.48K   5 downloads

Edited by timmy850, 01 September 2020 - 09:13 PM.