24 replies to this topic

[miniman24]

Hey all, Im looking into converting my rubber UJ driveshaft setup to the far better solid Hardy Spicer setup - both of the rubber joints Ive just removed have less than 10,000 miles on them and they basically fell to bits upon removal, solves my "un-tracable" vibration problem above 65 I suppose!

 

Given that I have the standard early rubber UJ setup, what do I need to conver to Spicers? Are my driveshafts compatible? Is it just the diff output connectors, Spicer rubber equivalents and driveshaft connectors that I need? Any help appreciated :)

 

Edit - I dont want to convert to pot joints, been recommended it but I want to keep the car period as much as possible :)

Edited by miniman24, 25 September 2014 - 07:40 PM.

[Tupers]

The differential out outs are different as are the end covers. 

 

I know Swiftune do a set of flanges that will work with pot joint tyres diffs but they're expensive. 

[MIGLIACARS]

u need

 

cooper s output shafts

cooper s couplins

hardy spices and bolts

cooper s output covers like this

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5b0527ad39

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35dbb46434

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item33951d8050

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1e88ffa8c4

 

 

 

 

 

 

the shafts fit front the rubber couplins

Edited by MIGLIACARS, 25 September 2014 - 08:10 PM.

[Dr s]

You need a set of quinten hazel nylon roller bearing replacements. Bolt them in and good to go

[Guess-Works.com]

Or just change to pot joints which are cheaper, constant velocity and loads stronger than QH couplings or the hardy spicer UJ's

 

To change to pots you'll need output shafts for the differential, replacement driveshafts and pot joints..

 

plus you'll probably have to remove the engine to do the swap... but you'll have to do that for the HS conversion anyway..

 

so easiest change is the QH conversion.. assuming you can get some.

[timmy850]

Yes, get a set of these. They are a period modification, and when the universal joints wear out you can replace them with Triumph driveshaft joints (the plastic cups pull off). I've got a set on mine and they work great!

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[Guess-Works.com]

If you're changing to the QH joints, also have a close look at your yokes... many of them get worn by failing crucifixes, which without being changed will destroy a new coupling very quickly.

[Gr4h4m]

I switched to the QH style and they lasted about 50 miles. the cups pulled out of the cross joint. I went back to the rubber ones. They last much longer if the wheel is loaded when you do the u bolts up.... I have had mine on for years now.

[Cooperman]

I fitted QH couplings. On the second rally test after fitting them I dropped the clutch, there was a graunching noise and the nylon cups split and needle rollers went everywhere. Wonderful waste of a £200 entry fee! Went back to Hardy-Spicer couplings and since then no problems.

[timmy850]

Mine are fitted to a standard 998 engine, and not a rally car, maybe that's why they've worked fine for me?

I'll be putting pot joints on next as they are a good combo of price and reliability..

[Cooperman]

I guess around 115 bhp with the clutch dropped in and 5500 rpm on the clock didn't help!

[Dr s]

Mine are holding up fine. Only 75 bhp here though. You need to install carefully to avoid damaging them

[MIGLIACARS]

Never used the rubber couplings in Motorsport but i have used hardy spices, ive snapped about 4 in total and cooper s shafts to.

 

that was in my mini with slicks on and about 130 at the fly.

 

I now use good old pot joints with nos cv s        Touch wood and i hope im not tempting fate but they have been great. with 9 inch slicks and 167 at the flywheel.

[dklawson]

Peter, if the bearing cup slip inside the nylon and spewed rollers everywhere... your set of QL5000s clearly had a defective U-Joint installed !   I don't doubt it happened but I would have expected the failure to be the nylon cups themselves, not the u-joint.  In my collection of parts I also have a set of "steel cups" for a metal version of the QL5000 design.  They were used on a gearbox I bought from a retired racer.

 

Regardless of which drive system you select, the QL5000 will be the least expensive solution for a street car as long as the yokes are not damaged as Guessworks pointed out.  I am glad to see they are back in production as they have come and gone multiple times in the period I have owned my Mini.  For those who already have QL5000s, take note that when the u-joint wears out... it is replaceable.  Do not throw the old QL5000s out if the nylon cups are intact.  Buy the driveshaft u-joint for a Triumph TR6.  Press the steel cups out of the nylon parts and install the TR6 cups and your QL5000s can be good for many more miles.

 

EDIT:  In response to the OP's edited content, the QL5000 conversion could be considered a "period accessory" for your car as it retains the yokes and was available when Mk1/2 cars were common.

Edited by dklawson, 01 October 2014 - 11:48 AM.

[Globule]

Rather than start a new thread I thought I would resurrect this and keep it all in one place. 

I have a complete 850cc driveline setup, from magic wand transmission through to the wheel, and I want to removed the HS set-up to convert a later box from pot joints to HS. Regarding parts required, is it just the shafts themselves, the joints, the output shafts from the diff (i.e. unbolt from the CWP) and the diff covers themselves and that is all? I saw reference to detent springs when researching so just wanted to confirm.

 

Will the outputs fit into a cross pin diff without requiring machining etc? 

 

Thank you