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Oversills, What They Are And Why You Want To Avoid Them


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#106 Carlos W

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 05:39 PM

Just took my oversill off on the mini, yep its a bodge job, where's the best place to get replacement orig/heritage proper sills from? Moss do a pair for 74 quid which seems reasonable, only my heritage everything panelwise for my mg midget were a t@#t to fit!!
Can anyone recommend a good pair please? Cheers Iain

 

 

What are the floors like?

 

Also, if you've got a lot to buy TMF+ membership costs a fiver a year and gives you discount at minispeed, minispares etc



#107 sonikk4

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 05:40 PM

If the inner sills are shot then M Machine is the place to go. Their inner sills to first flute are very good.

#108 eean

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 06:03 PM

Ah I was considering joining the TMF+ seems good value at a fiver :-)
Just been looking on the minispares site, they do Rover ones for 40 quid a side incl vat or non gen repro ones for 40 quid a pair which they say are a good fit etc.
Thing is I'm doing this to sell on but I want to do a proper solid job with it, I'm an experienced welder with all sorts of rebuilds under my belt, question is are the repro ones as thick/strong as the Rover ones? For 40 quid more I'd rather put the best ones on.
The inners are also welded over with repair sections and look great from the inside, so before I fit the outers Iv cut the old ones off back to nice thick solid steel which I will weld to the new inner sections in place so they will be double welded then painted before welding outer on.
After fitting outers I'll fill the sills with waxoyle.
The floors are good, but the area they join the sills have been plated so this is also being cut back and redone properly :-)

#109 Down&Out

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 06:28 PM

If the non-gen ones are magnum, run away.

Fitted magnum sills to a friends car, looked ok when fitted, but didnt fit in the slightest to begin with, entirely the wrong profile.

 

Heritage ones went on mine without fettling in the slightest, however. Spend the extra, i'd say.



#110 eean

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 06:45 PM

Cheers Down&Out ;-)

#111 eean

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 06:58 PM

If ya fancy a look at my project have a look on Facebook for Iain Brooks and check out the mini red hot album, I'll friend anyone's friend request so you can look ;-)

#112 ryan22_lgm

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 07:13 PM

Another issue I have found was highlighted to me at riviera run this weekend. I was buying panels and asked for a drivers side sill. I was handed an oversill now I know the difference between a real sill and a oversill so I said no can I have a proper narrow one. To someone who doesn't know what they are looking for they wouldn't know if a panel seller handed it to them. We are fighting a loosing battle!!!

#113 Down&Out

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Posted 04 May 2015 - 09:02 PM

Yeah, lots of people don't know the difference and anyone selling or doing a car with some fitted gets the hump if you point them out!



#114 eean

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Posted 05 May 2015 - 09:05 AM

Tell you what, theres some dodgy welding bodgers out there, the step sill and sill with the rust sandwich from the old sill was 'spot tacked' only every 2/3 inches and the welds mostly pulled apart, the new rear panel wasnt even welded to the sill atall!!

#115 miniyellowmini

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 09:53 PM

I can't understand (other than the obvious £) why the big Mini specialists continue to sell oversills. Although they are widely known to be a bodge, not everyone is aware of the long term problems they cause and buy them thinking they are actually better being wider. So why continue to sell them and instead just stock the correct heritage and aftermarket versions.



#116 eean

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Posted 15 May 2015 - 05:09 PM

Can I ask, I've fitted the jacking point to the inner sill and making and welding in strengthener plates so its a lot stronger and dry fitting the sill to check the jacking point sits in the hole nicely, when you all weld the outer sill on, do you put a few welds on the jacking hole to the jacking point or is that not necessary?

Edited by eean, 15 May 2015 - 05:10 PM.


#117 sonikk4

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Posted 15 May 2015 - 05:16 PM

Can I ask, I've fitted the jacking point to the inner sill and making and welding in strengthener plates so its a lot stronger and dry fitting the sill to check the jacking point sits in the hole nicely, when you all weld the outer sill on, do you put a few welds on the jacking hole to the jacking point or is that not necessary?


No need to if you have picked up the two returns on the jacking point bracket. There is nothing to stop you adding weld if you want or fully seam weld it to the sill.

#118 eean

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Posted 15 May 2015 - 05:20 PM

Cheers Sonikk4, on this nearside I've made the bracketry for the mounting of jacking point so I'll need to make it to have the two returns to meet the outer sill and spot weld it when fitting outer sill, thanks for that :-)

Edited by eean, 15 May 2015 - 05:21 PM.


#119 ac427

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 11:05 PM

If the non-gen ones are magnum, run away.

Fitted magnum sills to a friends car, looked ok when fitted, but didnt fit in the slightest to begin with, entirely the wrong profile.

 

Heritage ones went on mine without fettling in the slightest, however. Spend the extra, i'd say.

 

Quoted from elsewhere - "Use A-Panels ALA5660MS and ALA5661MS they're MS non genuine, but better than the heritage items and loads cheaper."

 

Has anyone had experience of the above parts ?


Edited by ac427, 04 June 2015 - 11:05 PM.


#120 Ben_O

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Posted 27 August 2015 - 02:54 PM

Just to show you that even if vented sills have been fitted and they look ok from the outside and the inner sill looks good from inside the car, It doesn't mean that the job has been done well.

 

So be aware of that too.

 

Viewed with the car on it's side...

 

tCFDGDn.jpg

 

Cut away

 

FVUoEYB.jpg

 

And the reason for this?

No paint was applied to the inner sill prior to fitting the outers.

 

also note, those were fitted by a specialist...






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