195 replies to this topic

[Cooperman]

It is at least a 4-hour job, maybe more, just to remove the over-sill, clean back for welding, trial fit the new sill, bend and adjust as necessary, weld the new sill on, grind back, linish, prime and paint. At £40 per hour that is £160 + VAT. So £200 seems a bit cheap to me, unless it's going to be a bodge job.

That is without the additional work which ALWAYS becomes necessary when over-sills have been fitted. For example, new jacking points will almost certainly be needed together with a repair to the end of the cross member where the jacking point fits. Then there is the probable damage to the floor where the over-sill was welded and corrosion to the inner sill.

I don't think I've ever seen an over-sill where there was not significant corrosion underneath it. In fact, that is why those cretins fit over-sills in the first place, to hide the crap underneath.

Sorry if this seems negative, but it is better to be prepared for the worst.

The problem can be that when the over-sills are cut off, you will get a call saying that your £200 job has just gone to £400 as a result of all the additional work. Then there is no way forward or back without simply paying what is required to get the car safe and complete.

How many times have we all seen that? Too many!

[nicklouse]

200 to replace original sills could be seen as little much. But not far off.


As above think what has to be done with over sills.

Remove over sill.

Remove whatever is left of the original sill.

Make good. Prime. Paint. Weld. Grind. Prime. Paint.

I am currently replacing the original sills on mine and would not like to do over sill removal and fix for 200.

And there is always the possible issue of repairs to the side panel and Door step that could effect things.

[Pottrell]

Just found someone else, £150 for both outer sills... Seems like a huge leap in price so I'm not sure who to go with to be honest! I'll have to ask if that includes what you mentioned: Removing the outer sill, cleaning up the rust beneath, making any repairs, rustproofing, fitting a new sill and then priming, sealing, stone chipping and then painting,

[Ben_O]

Just found someone else, £150 for both outer sills... Seems like a huge leap in price so I'm not sure who to go with to be honest! I'll have to ask if that includes what you mentioned: Removing the outer sill, cleaning up the rust beneath, making any repairs, rustproofing, fitting a new sill and then priming, sealing, stone chipping and then painting,

Does this person know Mini's?

[Pottrell]

Just found someone else, £150 for both outer sills... Seems like a huge leap in price so I'm not sure who to go with to be honest! I'll have to ask if that includes what you mentioned: Removing the outer sill, cleaning up the rust beneath, making any repairs, rustproofing, fitting a new sill and then priming, sealing, stone chipping and then painting,

Does this person know Mini's?

He's part of a mini club and does quite a lot of restoration work (welding part time etc)

[miniyellowmini]

Problem is you never know what you'll find under them. My O/S sill I replaced two years ago, everything underneath was repairable. I'm now in the process of doing the N/S and it's the total opposite. Either directly or indirectly due to the oversills it has resulted in it needing new outer and inner sills, A Panel, doorstep, bottom of the rear quarter and closing panel, repairs to the front floor pan and since taking off the underseal discovered that the flitch also need replacement as it's rotten at where it meets the floor.

 

Work could easily escalate once the outer sill is removed. Resulting in either a bigger bill or bodging to get it done for the original price.  Mine did genuinely look ok, till I started poking about at it.

[smudger50]

Hi,

Newby to this forum!

 

Reading this post I'm now slightly concerned if I've done the right thing with fitting over sills to my sons restoration project.

Probably covering old ground but here's our story of events.

 

I've got photos of 'work in progress' but don't know how to attach them?

 

Original sills (vented type) were slightly rusty with some small holes & pitting but nothing major but decided to change rather than repair.

These were completely removed to expose the inner sills of which had slight surface rust but salvageable and repaired.

Once inner sills were repaired these we cleaned, rust treated and under sealed before fitting the new sills.

We didn't know at the time the sills we bought were 'oversills' but these were fitted in the correct manner spot welded to the seam & inner sills and welded where we couldn't get the spot welder in around the cross member.

I did cut these down but not enough to expose new vent slots, so just below about half inch.

Welded joints were sealed with seam sealer, stone chipped and then painted.

 

Have I done all I can except expose the vented slots for ventilation & drainage?

Would I benefit by drilling holes or cutting in slots.

I don't really want to have to remove all the work we've done especially as the cars now finished.

 

Some of your posts and story's are scaring me half the death.

 

Any comments and or advise would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Darren

[smudger50]

Hi Guys,

Worked out how to attach the photos.

Hope they make sense?

Thanks

Darren

Attached Files

•  Oversills 1.jpg   50.94K   89 downloads
•  Oversills 2.jpg   50.85K   97 downloads
•  Oversills 3.jpg   50.39K   96 downloads
•  Oversills 4.jpg   54.05K   106 downloads

[MattMiniS96]

Hi Guys,

Worked out how to attach the photos.

Hope they make sense?

Thanks

Darren

 

I would say that you could remedy it by drilling holes into the dimples. So there is some ventilation, I dont think its the perfect solution but it would help

 

:)

[Tiny tom]

Nothing wrong with them as long as metal is good underneath. Not covering rust. Waxoyl the inside and they will outlast normal mini sills. Can guarantee that my friend restored his car 15 years ago with these sills and they've never caused a problem. All of these horror stories are because of numb nuts covering rusty messes to get through a mot. Tom

[Pottrell]

If you've cleaned up the metal work etc you're fine as far as I can see - I would personally prefer to have the flute holes though as others have mentioned. It allows for air flow and moisture to run out (if there's an excess). 
 
In similar news, my mini's at the welders now, having its oversills taken off and outer/inner sills put in! :)

On another note. WHY would someone cut out the crossmember?!

Attached Files

•  IMG_20141107_150136.jpg   64.8K   35 downloads
•  IMG_20141107_155825.jpg   45.3K   52 downloads
•  IMG_20141107_155735.jpg   40.35K   76 downloads

Edited by Pottrell, 07 November 2014 - 04:00 PM.

[miniyellowmini]

If you've cleaned up the metal work etc you're fine as far as I can see - I would personally prefer to have the flute holes though as others have mentioned. It allows for air flow and moisture to run out (if there's an excess). 
 
In similar news, my mini's at the welders now, having its oversills taken off and outer/inner sills put in! :)

On another note. WHY would someone cut out the crossmember?!

 

Looks like the jacking point has been removed. It was probably rusty so they removed it, found a hole behind and rather than weld a patch in left the hole where it was. I would treat the inside of the crossmember while you have access and get that welded up. Then you could reinstate the jacking point if you wish. I haven't worried with the jacking points on my Mini as they tend to be a rust trap.

[sonikk4]

That looks like a repair inner sill so i can only assume that has been welded to the crossmember. Not really the way to go about it hence the reason why you have that hole there as well.

[Ben_O]

That looks like a repair inner sill so i can only assume that has been welded to the crossmember. Not really the way to go about it hence the reason why you have that hole there as well.

Exactly what i was going to say!

 

Its a cover inner sill

[1984mini25]

 

That looks like a repair inner sill so i can only assume that has been welded to the crossmember. Not really the way to go about it hence the reason why you have that hole there as well.

Exactly what i was going to say!

 

Its a cover inner sill

 

 

which is exactly what I said to begin with. Those type of 'inner sills' are only used along with over sills as a quick bodge just to get the car through and mot. With the less educated or misguided owners thinking the job has been done 'properly' just because it I t has passed and mot and is then deemed to be safe.