35 replies to this topic

[exuptoy]

My bro in law was a trained tech in Vauxhall from around 88 and he has always copper slipped wheel studs and hub centric rings / disc faces as when you try and remove them it's always a problem.

 

I was recently asked to refit the alternator cables (all 25 of them) to a 450 KW diesel generator at work and when I perused (good word that) the manual it stated that all torque settings for the 8.8 bolts (45Nm) and 10.9 (63Nm) type were to be applied to bolts assembled with engine oil.

[HarrysMini]

For anyone interested, Mintex do not actually recommend the use of copper grease on brake pads, they do sell their own product, which is better. 

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35c9bcc009

 

I use the above product and it is hugely better than copper slip, which burns off after a few high temperature brake situations.

[dklawson]

No need to lock or suspend this thread yet but I will keep watching.

 

All... please, no more personal comments.  Keep on point with facts and personal experiences.  I posted the first response to this thread and pointed out that my comments were my personal suggestions only so I hope no one takes them as anything more than that.

 

Regarding brake pad lube, I also use a high temperature lubricant (as opposed to anti-seize) on the metal to metal contacts.  On my daily driver Hondas I gave up on aftermarket pads and only buy factory parts.  Those factory parts come with their own packet of lube that appears to be a graphite type, silicone base grease.

[Alpenflitzer]

I am using high temperature ceramic paste.

[Shep76S]

Having spent many hours recently trying to remove the rear wheel bolts from an Elise, resulting in two broken sockets and one sheared removal tool, I put a dab of copper slip on the ends to aid future removal.

[69k1100]

Lubrication increases the preload as more of the torque applied to the bolt gets translated into preload, where as with a dry bolt some of that torque (approx 30%) goes into overcoming the friction between the threads. It's pretty hard to measure preload so if the manual states a dry torque figure you have to be able to determine how lubrication will change this figure (and the preload)

However a bolt can loosen through dynamic forces so it stands to reason a lubricated bolt may be more subject to loosening through vibration. Not a life ending issue with a cylinder head but wheel studs? And there's the problem with applying the same torque that you would to a dry bolt (upping the preload)

As for brake pads I've always found that with new pads you should at least treat them to a freshly ground rotor. Quality kits like bendix usually come with a paste and procedure to run in the brakes properly, I've never had issues with squealing brakes.