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Copper Grease On Bolts Or Clean Thread?


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#16 Jordie

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:25 PM

Now c'mon folks.

 

The discussion should be based on facts, the pros and cons. Please dont take peoples comments and make them personal, if you think someone is right or wrong then explain why.

 

Jordie



#17 Gremlin

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:28 PM

Me? A clown. Hahaha

Well admin can now suspend my account!!! Sick of the way people are on this forum.....

Why be like that, if you do not admit you are wrong and apologise then the clown comment was mild

#18 cal844

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:29 PM

Now c'mon folks.
 
The discussion should be based on facts, the pros and cons. Please dont take peoples comments and make them personal, if you think someone is right or wrong then explain why.
 
Jordie


This is where people go wrong(by not explaining the correct way) it really annoys me, especially when doing things correctly casn save money!

#19 Fast Ivan

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:31 PM

I use the word clown because cal has had this explained to him before when he last dished out bad advice on the use of copper slip



#20 cal844

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:32 PM

Me? A clown. Hahaha
Well admin can now suspend my account!!! Sick of the way people are on this forum.....

Why be like that, if you do not admit you are wrong and apologise then the clown comment was mild
Im in the trade, 3 fully trained, timeserved mechanics always do the wheel studs tighter with copper grease, not looser!

As for wrong advice... We will agree to disagree, after all everyone is different

Edited by cal844, 05 September 2014 - 08:34 PM.


#21 Jordie

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:34 PM

Problem how I see it is....

 

Someone could view this forum, find a topic via google for example, read the first couple of posts which may contain bad or incorrect advice. They might not find a correct answer in the topic or stop reading before getting to the correct answer.

 

This means that person has wrong or mis information and may possibly use that on their own car, leading to a dangerous situation.

 

Generally, you should only post if you have direct experience, facts or useful relative information to the topic content. Those who dont have this, should refrain from posting.

 

This doesnt apply to just this topic, but all the topics within the problems, technical and questions.



#22 Gremlin

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:34 PM

Well then they're all clowns, do you have manufacturer torque settings for when using copper slip on threads?

#23 Fast Ivan

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:35 PM

 

 

Me? A clown. Hahaha
Well admin can now suspend my account!!! Sick of the way people are on this forum.....

Why be like that, if you do not admit you are wrong and apologise then the clown comment was mild
Im in the trade, 3 fully trained, timeserved mechanics always do the wheel studs tighter with copper grease, not looser!

As for wrong advice... We will agree to disagree, after all everyone is different

 

they might well have been doing it but that doesn't make it right, please just do some research on the subject



#24 Jordie

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:38 PM

Please keep this on topic folks. The topic is ref the torque settings when lubed.

 

 

Attached File  torque.jpg   35.87K   42 downloads

 

The chart above is one example found on an engineering website which shows how different lubes effect the required torque.



#25 cal844

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:45 PM

Im too tired to even start argueing... I use copper grease on:

Brake pads
Wheel studs
Subframe nuts/ bolts
Engine mounts
And suspension bolts/ nuts


Practically any bolts which may need removed during services

I have done my wheel studs up to 60 ibft torque

I have yet in my 10 years working on cars to have a stud failure!!!

#26 Fast Ivan

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:53 PM

this is engineering fact, not my opinion

 

on fasteners a quoted torque figure will be quoted "dry" that means no lubricant unless otherwise stated.

up to 90% of the torque applied is used in overcoming friction leaving just the 10% that's used on the axial load of the fastener. If you add a lubricant to this the friction is reduced and the danger is that the fastener is over torqued and may fail in tension because of the increase in axial load.

 

There are a lot of variables to consider such as the type of lubricant, the quality of the fasteners and the coatings, add to this any inaccuracies with the torque wrenches and its a bit hit and miss, this is why for any change to the quoted torque settings then proper testing should be undertaken.



#27 Fast Ivan

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:57 PM

i've removed the clown remark, no need for that



#28 Gremlin

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 09:03 PM

Im too tired to even start argueing... I use copper grease on:

Brake pads
Wheel studs
Subframe nuts/ bolts
Engine mounts
And suspension bolts/ nuts


Practically any bolts which may need removed during services

I have done my wheel studs up to 60 ibft torque

I have yet in my 10 years working on cars to have a stud failure!!!

Just because is hasn't sheared doesn't mean it's thumbs up all round, have you heard the term elastic limit?

#29 se_juggles

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 09:18 PM

keep off my thread if your gunna argue simple question and it has been answered. Put your handbags away ladies.

Admin close the thread please.



#30 mini93

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 09:26 PM

In high heat areas, such as engine components and brakes, I would consider using something higher temperature rated than copper grease. I have used ceramic grease before and found this stays put and usable longer.

 

Im another healthy user of copper grease though. I see no problem with using them on wheel studs. Its what I was taught where I did my apprentership building rally cars


Edited by mini93, 05 September 2014 - 09:26 PM.





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