Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

What Pcv Valve Do I Need?


  • Please log in to reply
6 replies to this topic

#1 Island Mini

Island Mini

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Location: Grand Cayman (Sometimes Oxford)
  • Local Club: Wish there was one

Posted 27 August 2014 - 02:49 AM

Just plumbed in all my breather lines in order to bring my engine back from the 1930's! They go into the outlet on my twin hs2 manifold, I'm guessing I obviously need a pcv valve. Are there any specs to this or can I just pick up a generic one for the same sort of engine size?

 

Thanks

Toby



#2 dklawson

dklawson

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,923 posts
  • Name: Doug
  • Location: Durham, NC - USA
  • Local Club: none

Posted 27 August 2014 - 12:13 PM

The original Smiths PCV valve is the pancake looking thing mounted on a bracket to the intake manifold.  It is attached to the crankcase breather and the intake manifold by hoses.  I still have them on two of my British cars including the Mini.  I am assuming you don't want to go that route.  You can use just about any "modern" PCV valve installed in a hose between the breather and intake.  That is a common swap made to the TR6 over here. 

 

The two links below are for the TR6 kit (to show the parts).  The second link is to the schematic showing the plumbing.  The PCV valve is nothing special and you could certainly find something similar in the U.K.

Kit:  https://www.goodpart...p?productID=253

Schematic:  http://i233.photobuc...um/TR6PCV-1.jpg



#3 Island Mini

Island Mini

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Location: Grand Cayman (Sometimes Oxford)
  • Local Club: Wish there was one

Posted 27 August 2014 - 01:56 PM

Good to know! Just the info I needed. Fortunately I have done all the plumbing already yesterday and I have a 1275 auto spi (carb converted) with the two crankcase vents. I did however use the the 2nd outlet (not the central one) which I drilled and tapped to take a compression hose barb fitting. Then hooked up my breather lines and my map sensor through T junctions to that and done!

 

The whole idea of my conversion was not to cut or splice any wires or modify anything in any way. Hopefully the swap back to injection for someone when I sell the car would take hours as opposed to days.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Toby



#4 norris2002

norris2002

    Stage One Kit Fitted

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPip
  • 73 posts
  • Location: SE London

Posted 27 August 2014 - 09:43 PM

I think this is what i need for my engine too. I have a 1275 with two breathers, and twin carbs with no brass breather intakes, and I don't have an original air filter box with the inlet for the breathers either (way too expensive).

 

At the moment my breathers are joined by a Y piece, then open under the car. I did not realise any PCV valve would work, and assumed you needed the old pancake fitting.

 

this forum is good!



#5 Island Mini

Island Mini

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Location: Grand Cayman (Sometimes Oxford)
  • Local Club: Wish there was one

Posted 27 August 2014 - 10:57 PM

I just bought a ford one today going to stick it on tomorrow!

Quick question as I stated my car used to be injection but still has the ecu in it to handle the timing (don't have emissions control in the Caribbean) hence why I would like to plumb in my map sensor vacuum line to this too.

I have been trying to think whether having the pcv valve or breather lines in the system will effect its reading. What do you think? Should I put the valve before the T where the map sensor is connected or will it not matter?

Surely it would not make a difference as the map sensor will always be reading a negative pressure...

#6 dklawson

dklawson

    Moved Into The Garage

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 10,923 posts
  • Name: Doug
  • Location: Durham, NC - USA
  • Local Club: none

Posted 28 August 2014 - 03:58 AM

I know nothing about fuel injection.  However, I would avoid tapping into any vacuum line associated with the fueling system sensors.  While some oil fumes may not hurt the sensor... there is always the chance it would become contaminated and not work.  If you have a brake servo hose, that would be a better connection spot as long as the servo check valve is not screwed directly into the manifold.



#7 Island Mini

Island Mini

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 448 posts
  • Location: Grand Cayman (Sometimes Oxford)
  • Local Club: Wish there was one

Posted 28 August 2014 - 04:13 PM

Alright solid point. Duely noted.

I'm all plumbed up now valves and all. Engine seems to crank significantly more healthily as expected. However the thing only splutters and will not run. I'm assuming I need to retune the carbs as the extra ventilation will have leaned my mixture significantly as opposed to the blanked plug.

Thanks for your help




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users