14 replies to this topic

[Purple Tom]

Hi,

I've finally managed to acquire a 1275 for my mini, as the 1098 has buggered valve stems (must be acres of space between valve and stem). I've got the 1275 down to block and box, everything else is off, so i can fit new oil pump and timing chain. My mate suggested that while I have it this far apart (i'm splitting the box and block to fit a central oil pick-up too), why not fit a slightly racier cam to the lump. Must admit i'm tempted, but i need to know what would be the best cam for the job. Its going to be used for fast road use, maybe the occasional track day, but i need it to run fine at slow speeds in traffic etc. What would anyone recommend?

Cheers

Tom

[Bluemini]

As for cam choice, I would go for the Kent 276, its an excellent road cam, with the poke just were you want it and they pull and pull when you floor it. Also a bonus with it is that you can get away with timing it in as you would with a normal road cam, I've done it a few times like that with very good results. Best way to do it is to mark the timing chain in relation to the cogs it sits on in a couple of places with some tipex, then put it all back together with the marks all lined up again. Dont forget to fit new cam followers with the cam.

If your fitting a central oil pick-up, are you aware you have to take some of the gears out to fit it? Its easy enuf to do, just take the speedo drive housing off and with a long drift, knock the main shaft out that the row of gears are mounted on. It should come out easily onc eyou free it a bit, it will slid right out. With the old oil pick-up undone, lift the gear shaft and pickup out together. As Haynes says - re-fit is the oppostie to removal...

Good luck.

[Purple Tom]

i was aware some gears had to be removed, just wasn't sure which ones lol. how do you fit new followers as the 1275 has no tappet chest covers? i'm probably being thick here by the way :erm:

[Bluemini]

With the engine and box appart, lay the engine on its side and you'll see the followers behind the cam, take the cam out and with a push rod or something like that, push the followers out from the head side of the block towards the crank. Its advisable to get a new oil pump too when your changing the cam.

[Purple Tom]

hmmm, i'm tempted. But I need to have it back together in time for drag wars on the 17th/18th, and i've got a new rear subframe assembly to put back on in that time too! In terms of timing the cam, what is involved? Will the cam drive gear only fit on one way, ie is it keyed? So the tip-ex method will work as long as you mark both crank gear/chain and cam gear/chain? Also are all cams keyed at the same orientation? I am putting a new oil pump in it anyway so thats ok. Will the 276 cam allow the engine to still tick over at a reasonable idle, and would it be driveable in slow traffic? With the engine and box apart how long would it take to replace the cam and followers? And also on a fairly low milage engine like mine is it necessary to replace the cam bearings or will they be ok?

Sorry for all the questions!

[Bluemini]

The 276 will is like a standard cam in traffic and ticking over, its only once you boot it and take it over about 2500 rpm that you notice the difference.

Fitting depends on how quick you can do it, I can get the engine out, do all these things and back in in a day, but that is from experience too.

The cam and crank have a key in them and the pullies are sided, so they will only go on one way. What I do is put two marks on the cam pully, one at 10 o'clock and one at 2 o'clock and the same on the crank pully and in the corresponding place on the chain to all these.When you take the pullies and chain off, they should all come off together, but the marks are there if you do drop a pully by mistake.

[Purple Tom]

ok, that seems a good method to do it. How does the camshaft actually come out of the block? Is it a press fit into its bearings or does it slide out once you get the cam pulley off? And how about the oil pump end, how does it attach there? Sorry to ask so many questions again, i just need to be sure of how its done before i attempt to do it.

[philster]

the swiftune sw5 always seams to get good ratings supposed to be very torquey.

[Bluemini]

The cam is a floating fit, held in by a triangular plate with 3 bolts behind the cam pully. If you undo these you can slide the cam out. Be carful tho because you dont want to damage the cam bearings which are pressed into the block, so take it out nice and slowly and gentley.

[Purple Tom]

ok. well i'm going to order it first thing tommorrow so it comes for tuesday morning, along with all my other bits, so i'll spend all day tuesday rebuilding it, and hope it comes out ok! Thanks for the advice Blue, i'll see how it goes, and i'll let you know! Hopefully it will make it to drag wars!

[Purple Tom]

just thought - will i need to get a modified dizzy to cope with the cam or will the standard electronic one be ok?

[Bluemini]

Standard will be fine. Make sure you put the dizzy drive dog in the right place, have a look in Haynes for the correct possition - make sure you dont put it in upside down else your timing will be 180 degrees out!

[mighty_mini]

i neva bothered with cams really... i found they run better without them in.























JOKE! Please don't try it

[Purple Tom]

:grin: i intent to keep mine firmly in place thank you!! So far have split engine and box, got layshaft out ready to fit the central oil pick-up, and the camshaft is out too. I'm quite nervous about putting it all back together, but it should be fine. I've got the dots on the timing gears, just waiting for the cam, followers, gaskets, pick-up etc etc to come tommorrow morning. Hopefully it should be pretty much back together tommorrow night! I'll keep you informed, but thanks very very much for the advice so far, i may need more though!!

[Purple Tom]

Hi, halfway through it now, just stopped for a sarnie. Got the central oil pick-up in and gearbox back together including the speedo drive, and the new cam and followers are in, along with the timing chain and pulleys. Just got to remove all traces of the old gaskets and seals, then drop the block back onto the box', replace all the exterior gaskets, re-fit the timing cover and transfer gear housing, do valve stem oil seals, head back on (oh yeah, got to drill that for the transfer hose and heater valve) then paint it! Should be back together completely with any luck by the weekend, once the paint has dried!