165 replies to this topic

[fuzzy-hair-man]

Brakes don't stop horsepower (unless you have your foot on the accelerator whilst braking ) they stop weight from a speed.

 

So given that more power doesn't need more powerful brakes unless the vehicle weight has changed or the it's got larger wheels (the wheel/tyre has more leverage on the disk/drum to overcome) A micra conversion should be about the same weight or lighter.

 

Where I figure a change does come in and where it may be logical to upgrade brakes is a more powerful engine may get the car up to speed quicker and therefore brakes need to stop the car more often this doesn't require more power but might require dissipating heat more quickly so upgrading to vented brakes or minifins on the back may makes sense?

 

That said I've read one of Keith Calver's articles saying half the time 7.5" brakes aren't getting hot enough to work effectively so perhaps there's enough ability to get rid of heat there already...

 

Getting 7.5" disks passed by the engineer (in Aust conversions need engineering approval) was the easiest part of the process all he asked was has the weight changed?

[al_reidy]

Interesting points raised, my personal reason for the big brakes comment was that currently with dot 5.1 fluid and 7.9" disks I get brake fade in back roads. I did get the same results with 7.5 setup and my 1380.
Equally the other reason for making the comment was that to get the initial bite feel for using as a daily car with the turbo would be better with a greater efficiency vs pedal travel / effort.
I was not expecting this conversation but it's been very interesting sat back watching you both debate

I feel strongly that on a track day it will be brake fade and disastrous in its current state.
As they are non vented at the moment , cooling the brakes with ducting might help. but with the more metal of larger vented disks this limit will be much later and allow my horrendous driving to last a few extra laps.

I did run on my 1380 metro turbo setup at one point which when warm were amazing on track, literally pushing as hard as I could on the pedal would not lock the wheels, the braking force was epic. Pulling up on the steering wheel to aid forcing the pedal to the floor was needed.

I basically want that with 10" rims hence stating that a servo might help.

[al_reidy]

thinking about selling the micra mini to start the turbo project. nothing wrong with it, just i will end up re-buying and taking out perfectly serviceable parts etc.

hmmm what do you guys think?

[slack]

Sell the parts (subframe, engine, etc) our all the mini? Send me a message with the prices please.

[vx220]

thinking about selling the micra mini to start the turbo project. nothing wrong with it, just i will end up re-buying and taking out perfectly serviceable parts etc.
hmmm what do you guys think?

Stick an ad up, you can always change your mind

Pm me if you do?

[al_reidy]

Turbo... first day mocking up.

It helps when you know someone with a 1.5 tonne lathe, Tig and Mig welder !

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Mocking up where the turbo should sit. its very very close to everything important.... ah.

Had so many doubts about this but f**k it. why not.

 

 

Started by effectually joining all exhaust ports together with stainless pipe in the shortest way possible.

lathe used to recess the pipes into the plate.

 

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This next shot show where the turbo will hang... we hope.

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The charged air  and air intake need further thought though as the engine mount is in the way :-/

 

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[al_reidy]

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[666junky]

Nice one cant wait to see this in action. Ive been doing alot of work on mine recently and just want to say thank you for all the help youve given + all the useful pictures!

[matty...]

Good choice on turbo! It works well on a 1275 A series so should be good on this too.

[al_reidy]

some more welding done.

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[al_reidy]

As I'm going for Dizzyless with the aftermarket ECU I'm having to source another way of picking up TDC.

My mate used the lathe to mount this bad boy ----

 

 

 

blanking off the Dizzy hole was also needed - more lathe work (will make bracket to stop the oil pressure firing it into the rad!)

 

 

it certainly makes the engine bay less cluttered.

 

 

more welding....

 

 

 

Oil return drilled and ting welded from the inside into the oil pan.

That was a ******* and a half to remove. you have to separate the gearbox slightly to get the pan off. ggggrrrr 

 

 

 

 

Next my attention went to the throttle body. the stock one is full of crap i can't use really. or don't want to use.

A quick search found a stock MG alloy throttle body will do bigger bore and flows better than the crappy nissan one.

 

 

 

 

 

In other news i have had to completely destroy a perfectly good front engine mount under the alternator as the input air side of the turbo was being a pain and not defying the laws of physics. 

currently repositioning it by about 2 inch towards the pulleys etc.

 

 

[al_reidy]

You can just see the new engine mount position under the alternator. the temp location on this also of the exhaust which will loop around and run under the engine in the normal place.

 

Need to figure out the wastegate actuator rod thingy. (its missing and upside down)

would like to run an intercooler but no idea where the bugger will fit.

 

 

 

might squeeze a very small one above the exhaust at an angle?

 

 

 

[lawrence]

In regards to the dizzy hole bung mate that's very similar to mine, I cut off the end of the origional and filled the hole with liquid metal, let me use the original rubber o ring too. There's not a lot of pressure behind it tho and I've had no movement issues from mine or leaks. Photo if it's handy at all


Lawrence

[al_reidy]

i think the blow back from the boost pressure puts excess pressure in the head so it might pop out.

The spun blanking plug has a recessed channel and a O ring in it. its a tight fit but i think to be on the safe side a small anchor to a thread somewhere will be best.

[l_jonez]

If your putting pressure into the crank case then you have bigger problems than a oil plug.