22 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

The clearance on both sides should be equal. The pot joints fits to the box much the same as the drive shaft fits to the CV joints, splines and an internal circlip. There is a service tool to release them, but they can usually be levered or wedged off with a breaker bar or chisel between the joint and a bolt head on the diff side cover.

 

The driveshaft needs to slide in & out of the pot joint as the steering & suspension moves, otherwise it should be free of play. Put it in gear and jack just one wheel clear of the floor; with one wheel and the final drive held the free movement in the airborne wheel will be down to play in the diff or drive shaft joints, and you can see the if the pot joints aren't moving because of sloppy driveshafts.

[xrocketengineer]

This is what mine looked like after replacement:

http://vid1056.photo...es/MVI_0826.mp4

Edited by xrocketengineer, 05 August 2014 - 03:18 AM.

[jetmechinnc]

This is what mine looked like after replacement:

http://vid1056.photo...es/MVI_0826.mp4

 

Wow, there is so little movement at all after the rebuild!  Mine moves a lot more, by turning the wheels, say an inch of rotation, or again, going from say 12 o'clock to 1-2 o'clock.  Do you think I need to pull the engine and check/change the diff pin or is it normal movement for an original differential with X amount of miles on it.  Hard to tell but I assume the other side you were not turning was near flush with the case as the other side?  I can almost wedge a finger in between the case and the R/H pot joint but zip with the L/H.

 

Another thing I noticed when turning both wheels in the air with the car in gear is that the engine pitches ever so slightly at a certain spot with each revolution of the tire.  I can see it flex the new exhaust mount at the transmission.  Is it correct to assume this is due to the pot joint sticking out a bit farther on the R/H side than the L/H side maybe binding the drive shaft?

[Guess-Works.com]

When you are under the car, the suspension is unloaded so the driveshafts will not be in their 'normal' attitude, however, it does show you where they will be on a tight turn or yump. If there is interference between a drive shaft or joint and other parts in the engine bay then this should be investigated.

 

Regarding the position of the pot joints, this is all relative to the position of the differential in the diff housing. There should normally be a gap between the pot joint and the diff cover, but should be fairly balanced, side to side, sometimes a bit larger on the long shaft side.

 

Have you tried pushing the pot which is further out, back in ?

[jetmechinnc]

 

Have you tried pushing the pot which is further out, back in ?

 

No I have not.  Do you just use a punch and a hammer or a dead blow hammer and knock it back with the drive shaft etc still installed?

[Guess-Works.com]

Should be able to push it in by hand

[jetmechinnc]

Should be able to push it in by hand

 

OK, with the car sitting on the ground, I can move the R/H pot joint in and out with fair ease.  The L/H joint doesn't move in or out.  Is this correct?

[Guess-Works.com]

Sounds like the Spring clip has disappeared. Not a big deal but may suggest that there is a lot of slack in the diff... 

 

If you get the opportunity, drop the oil and pul the drive shaft, and then see if the output shaft has much in out movement.