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Currently In Planning, But: The Mad Project
#31
Posted 08 July 2014 - 11:03 AM
#32
Posted 08 July 2014 - 12:40 PM
Car engine! I'm pulling a boxster engine out of a race at at work at the mo, the gearboxes may be a good start, it's a decent small transaxle. In fact what about just a boxster engine? In te load bay of a pickup truck? Real low centre of gravity so it would handle really well and it would sound mega!
#33
Posted 08 July 2014 - 12:42 PM
#34
Posted 05 August 2014 - 06:07 AM
If you did really want to do it and you already have one laying around the best way to go is find the highest geared CWP, fit the hardy spicer output, weld the diff and only run the offside shaft to the rear diff, viola rear wheel drive.
No doubt this will prompt plenty of people saying welding a diff is lunacy but I have built a 4x4 4ws buggy using a transverse engine this way whith absolutely no problems(yet) and the boys from Finland are doing the same but all diffs welded and running highly tuned t5 engines.
There are plenty of write ups regarding 90° gear lever transfer about
That is if you really had your heart set on it/don't have bottomless pockets but the same principal applies to any fwd engine and box. The only issue is the final drive gear as you have an initial reduction in the gearbox diff but you will also have a second reduction in your rear diff.
Edit:
Welded transverse engine diff in action
Edited by bossfab, 05 August 2014 - 06:22 AM.
#35
Posted 06 August 2014 - 02:37 PM
#36
Posted 06 August 2014 - 06:34 PM
Will be watching with interest.
#37
Posted 07 August 2014 - 03:50 PM
#38
Posted 07 August 2014 - 04:20 PM
It is far easeyer to make a race car chassis to fit around your parts than your parts to fit around your chassis.......and then make it into a race car. I assume you would want it as low as possible with some big wheels, well that would mean you would have to raise your lower wishbone past the chassis centre line which you probably couldn't do on the reliant chassis without building above it, doing that would keep your wishbones flat/parallel to each other which makes it far easeyer to determine stress points and there is more versatility in adjusting the suspension and steering
If you want to run a rear axle and not indi I would imagine you would have to rake the chassis quite a bit aswell. I have a 4-link calculator I could send you if that's what you wanted to do, it determines bump steer, anti squat, roll over centre radius and aload of other stuff I can't remember that makes your car handle well
Edited by bossfab, 07 August 2014 - 04:21 PM.
#39
Posted 07 August 2014 - 04:49 PM
but otherwise we thought even with no modification, the chassis and engine as is, it would be more or less an oversized, geared go kart, for atm 2 reasons, teaching my brother how to drive without him ruining my beloved mini, and just a nit of fun as it weighs nothing and we have a feild, so I saw that as roughly 200quid for something that is more than worth that in learning, fun and the fact we've given up with the road legal idea
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#40
Posted 07 August 2014 - 05:03 PM
Go for it
#41
Posted 07 August 2014 - 09:47 PM
Been doing a bit of thinking. You could make it like one of the older F1 cars, that had so much downforce they became illegal. Basically the whole car is a wing. High downforce, low drag. Any engine will power that.
#42
Posted 07 August 2014 - 11:02 PM
#43
Posted 08 August 2014 - 03:56 AM
#44
Posted 08 August 2014 - 08:08 AM
#45
Posted 08 August 2014 - 03:59 PM
http://www.yellowspider.se
The fag packet diagrams and cutting lists are on there somewhere, It's all Swedish.
All in Dave's one owes him about 4k and that is a competitive truck, like I say you could probably do it for less than that if it wasn't up to a competition spec. Possibly 1k for the finished article if you played your cards right on eblag and used evereything from the donor car(must be auto)
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