180 replies to this topic

[MrElliott]

I am sad to see that i am not the only one with these issues. Ive gone through ball joint dust covers and drive boots on a yearly basis. Oh and those rotten fuel tank rubber seals do my head in. Today i was out in the rain trying to find the sourse of my suspension squeak only to find 2 out of 4 rear suspension bushes have collapsed and cause the rear subframe to rub against my newly painted boot floor. Its not just the cost of these parts which annoy me, its the cost of those around it when they fail. Especially the cost of injury on those safety critical parts.

[MrElliott]

Does anyone know if there are any coatings or treatments we can give rubber parts to make them last longer? I have started to use silicone grease although this just keeps it quieter for longer but the rubber still degrades

[MrElliott]

Does anyone know if there are any coatings or treatments we can give rubber parts to make them last longer? I have started to use silicone grease although this just keeps it quieter for longer but the rubber still degrades

[Dusky]

While everyone is on here, any good places for track rod ends? My rubbers died in 1 year...

[Icey]

While everyone is on here, any good places for track rod ends? My rubbers died in 1 year...

 

I fitted some Delphi branded items from Moss earlier this year, they appear to be better but only time will tell.

[1984mini25]

I have just spent the mooring replacing my 'Cheap' unbranded (unless proved otherwise) knuckle joints widely sold by the mini 'specialists' for Delphi ones bought from a local motorfactors (who don't/won't sell unbranded parts) for £6.55, £13.10 the pair.

 

 

 

 

And the state of the ones removed that have done less than 1000 miles.

 

 

 

And the so called machining on the ball of one, the black lines are deep grooves that can be felt with a finger nail, but won't pic up too well in the picks. One of the nylon cups (was a right pita to remove) had also just started to wear through as well.

 

Edited by 1984mini25, 23 August 2016 - 08:50 PM.

[Mini Manannán]

They should be decent 1984mini25, I've just found them on Amazon  Keep us informed.

[MRA]

I suggest using ONLY Goodridge braided PTFE hoses in the interests of safety, if the rubber items are thought of as being suspect. I have used Goodridge on every car that has needed a hydraulic overhaul, and they save money long term because they generally don't need replacing again.

 

PTFE work hardens these should be changed every 18 months or less, it often says the same on the packaging.

[MRA]

The wrong kind of stainless is lethal in certain environments, including again salt water, however the right type is highly dependable. But, there may be a serious problem if the tube nuts are also stainless. They may be impossible to remove, as a problem somewhat similar in its effect to cold welding occurs between stainless parts. In a brake system you can not solve that by using the appropriate anti-seize compound, as if a trace gets into the hydraulics there will be serious seal problems within weeks.

 

So, quite possibly stainless hose end fittings and brass tube nuts might the the best. But I don't like brass for tube nuts as the hexagon tends to lose its corners too easily. Which brings us to stainless for the hose ends and standard plated steel for the tube nuts. Cunifer pipe of course, for safety's sake. And still a recipe for dissimilar metal electrolytic corrosion...

 

Suggestions?

 

Aircraft parts made from stainless steel are passivated, this stops galling.

[tiger99]

PTFE work hardening? Not as far as I have been aware but as this could be a real concern I will look into it. It is prone to cold flow, which is why it is not good for bearings unless the PTFE part is confined so it can not escape. It would not do for knuckle joints, for instance. But now I am becoming concerned that it may cold flow in the crimped or clamped area where it joins the end fitting. That could be bad. You can't successfully crimp on a solder coated wire, or grip it in a screw terminal for much the same reason. It always loosens due to cold flow.

[tiger99]

As for aircraft parts, I agree completely. But this is a complex issue as there are many grades of stainless. But thanks for mentioning these issues. This sort of thing matters.

[Artstu]

So is the consensus to buy your branded Mini parts from normal parts suppliers? I find it hugely disappointing that Minispares have failed to engage in this debate about the issue, especially since the impression is that you're buying OE quality parts from them at what is often a premium price. 

[Fast Ivan]

Pasification of stainless steel prevents galling? I must say I've not heard of that before, given that stainless steels self passivate anyway

[1984mini25]

So is the consensus to buy your branded Mini parts from normal parts suppliers? I find it hugely disappointing that Minispares have failed to engage in this debate about the issue, especially since the impression is that you're buying OE quality parts from them at what is often a premium price. 

 

It's not just minispares though, its pretty much the majority of the main mini specialists selling the same unbranded parts witch aren't fit for purpose.

 

The reply back I got from mini-mine about the knuckle joints that I've just replaced..

was that they sell 100's of these parts without any issue, and the quality is reflected in the price.

 

Witch pretty much says it all. They only sell cheap, low quality items as your average mini owner is more likely to go to a mini 'specialist' thinking they are getting serviceable parts. The term like shooting fish in a barrel comes to mind.

 

 

The way I'm buying parts from now on. If a mini specialist won't specify who has manufactured a part then I'll go elsewhere (local motor factors etc.) and find the parts elsewhere witch are branded. Although after checking on the local motorfactors website, most of the parts I've been looking at aren't that much dearer than mini spares and some of the branded parts are actually cheaper.

[Artstu]

Cheers. Here's one example of the impression that you're buying an OE quality part, which in my case completely failed before I'd even finished a light restoration.

 

http://www.minispare...MS.aspx|Back to

 

Perhaps it was one of those rare faulty parts that sellers talk about when you complain, you know the "we sell hundreds of those and no one has complained before"

 

Has anyone bought these buffers and they've lasted a long time like the originals that you perhaps thought best to replace even though they were okay, just because you were replacing everything else?

Edited by Artstu, 28 August 2016 - 09:07 PM.