12 replies to this topic

[DiscoDarren]

Just after a bit of advice prior to replacing my inner sills. At the minute I've drilled out all the necessary spot welds to remove the inner sill and run the cutting disk in a rough line down the floor (approximately on the first fold). Wondering now whether to mark up and cut a neat line and butt the old and new together or to allow for a joggled/joddled piece on the old bit of floor to create an overlap? I just worry that the latter method may be a moisture trap. Any thoughts on this or experience of either method??

[sonikk4]

I have joggled the inner sills on Wills mini special. Its flat on the underside and seam welded, then on the inside of the car i have welded an inch missed an inch etc for added strength. this seam will also be seam sealed when fully dressed back. No moisture getting in there.

 

 

The front floor pan section i did butt weld

 

the reason i choose to do this method was for maximum strength plus to cut down on time as i am doing this resto for a work mate. Butt welding, grinding back, dressing everything flat without thinning the metal is time consuming.

 

The finished item on the underside

[Artful Dodger]

tough one! seeing as the panel is meant to be single piece with the floor and not have a join there i would be tempted to butt weld (using normal methods to reduce warping, obviously) and grind flush to make it as manufactured. you could joggle the panel, lip over and weld together, would be easier and quicker but wouldnt look as neat and not as it should have been.

 

depends on your skill / patience! 

[JonnyAlpha]

It all depends on what finish you are looking for?

 

If you want nothing visible then its a butt weld but this takes skill and patience, or if you don't mind seeing the weld then Joddle the edge so that the upper joddle is on top that way you can weld and dress back the weld underneath to almost invisible, then either leave the upper weld as is dressed down slightly as it will be hidden under the carpet.

 

I have just fitted a self made rear Floor Corner just past the first flute but I butt welded it (fancied having a go as my welding has improved dramatically since I first started). (Pics in my Project Build)

 

I welded from inside the car so most of the weld is on top, I thought about dressing it back flat on top and bottom but a weld that is NOT dressed flat is stronger and as this is not a show car I will be dressing it down slightly to get it even and once the top is primed and painted it will be under the carpet.

As for the underside it too will be slightly dressed even Epoxy Primed, Stone Chipped and Top Coated so will be almost invisible anyway, I hope     

[DiscoDarren]

I'm still a newbie, so the skill level needed is a big consideration. I think I'd be happier with a joggled and overlapped joint. I think i will be less likely to burn a hole in it - bit more room for error with the cutting too. Going to have to buy myself a joggler tho and pay a lot of at tension to the seam sealing. Decisions decisions !!

[henri1972]

I for one think a butt weld on the floor would be weak as the floor will flex a joggled edge will give it strength ie double weld  plus you will only really see it inside unless you are going concourse then it will be a whole new floor

[sonikk4]

As you have mentioned its down to skill and experience to be honest plus the finish you want. At the end of the day unless you are having a stripped out interior with no carpet then joggling will be fine as the underside of the car will be smooth.

 

If its my own car then i will butt weld as i did with my sons car but for other people i give them the option. Remember this though if you go for the butt weld method and you do flat back the weld the floor is very thin to start with. It warps easily and if ground down too much (easily done) then you stand a good chance of cracking the repair joint very quickly. 

[DiscoDarren]

Been out in the garage all night doing a bit more prep and having a ponder. I'm pretty sure my best option is to joggle it. I'm not aiming for a show winning car, just want it solid and rust free. There's a section parallel to the companion bin where the overlap will be very small or non existent, I've got enough on the rest tho. I'm just a bit unsure of what to do when I get to the cross member. Do I just butt weld the bit underneath it?

[JonnyAlpha]

Any chance of some pics to help explain you dilemma?

[henri1972]

why not try butt welding on a piece of spare metal to see how strong you get it then try a joggling weld for strength see which one is stronger then you can decide

[sonikk4]

Been out in the garage all night doing a bit more prep and having a ponder. I'm pretty sure my best option is to joggle it. I'm not aiming for a show winning car, just want it solid and rust free. There's a section parallel to the companion bin where the overlap will be very small or non existent, I've got enough on the rest tho. I'm just a bit unsure of what to do when I get to the cross member. Do I just butt weld the bit underneath it?

In this particular area I joggled in between the two flanges of the crossmember, then where the sill runs under the flanges I notch these back to create a small section of butt weld. You could with a hammer and dolly dress the crossmember flange back enough to create a small joggle there but it's tricky and really not worth doing if you are unsure.

[DiscoDarren]

Been out in the garage all night doing a bit more prep and having a ponder. I'm pretty sure my best option is to joggle it. I'm not aiming for a show winning car, just want it solid and rust free. There's a section parallel to the companion bin where the overlap will be very small or non existent, I've got enough on the rest tho. I'm just a bit unsure of what to do when I get to the cross member. Do I just butt weld the bit underneath it?

In this particular area I joggled in between the two flanges of the crossmember, then where the sill runs under the flanges I notch these back to create a small section of butt weld. You could with a hammer and dolly dress the crossmember flange back enough to create a small joggle there but it's tricky and really not worth doing if you are unsure.

That sounds like a good solution. I will give it a go as soon as my joggling tool arrives. I've got a mate who offered to lead me one, but I don't like borrowing tools so I'm getting one of my own. Opted for the one with the head that flips round to punch holes for plug welds.

[sonikk4]

Been out in the garage all night doing a bit more prep and having a ponder. I'm pretty sure my best option is to joggle it. I'm not aiming for a show winning car, just want it solid and rust free. There's a section parallel to the companion bin where the overlap will be very small or non existent, I've got enough on the rest tho. I'm just a bit unsure of what to do when I get to the cross member. Do I just butt weld the bit underneath it?

In this particular area I joggled in between the two flanges of the crossmember, then where the sill runs under the flanges I notch these back to create a small section of butt weld. You could with a hammer and dolly dress the crossmember flange back enough to create a small joggle there but it's tricky and really not worth doing if you are unsure.

That sounds like a good solution. I will give it a go as soon as my joggling tool arrives. I've got a mate who offered to lead me one, but I don't like borrowing tools so I'm getting one of my own. Opted for the one with the head that flips round to punch holes for plug welds.

Yup that sounds like the tool I have got, it punches 5/32 holes which to be honest are too small for plug welds. Ideally a minimum of 3/16 the or 1/4" would be far better.