40 replies to this topic

[HarrysMini]

I am surprised nobody has mentioned thread locking compound.  With a semi removable / medium strength thread compound, it helps with torque down, prevents corrosion, holds the fastener against vibration and also allows you to remove said fastener when you want; it also wont run out when the part warms up. I have a range of thread locking compounds that i use for different fasteners around the car.  I pretty much save copper grease for behind brake pads only

I mentioned it. All but a few bolts have either got CS or a thread lock on them. There are not many bolts that go on dry on my car.

[Captain Mainwaring]

it would only affect the torque if it was going into a blind hole where the grease would cause pressure at the end of the bolt seeing as the heel board is open then the bolt could be torqued up

 

Wrong - very wrong. It's nothing to do with hydraulic'ing. 

 

Torque settings are supposed to be with both threads clean and dry. Lube them up and preload goes all over the place.

Remember the idea is to take the bolt to just below it's elastic limit for maximum clamping force (if it's required).

 

Yes torque is very important, but it becomes meaningless if conditions aren't always the same.

 

As fr brakes I wouldn't let anything other than brake fluid near seals - copperease is OK near pivots and fixings though.

As for torque on fixings through to captive nuts on sheet metal -  I don't think I would bother myself - 

[Captain Mainwaring]

It's frightening reading some of the advice here - I wouldn't let some of the posters change a wheel on a wheelbarrow, yet alone mess around with a motorized carriage.

 

People need to take the trouble to read and understand what a bolt and a thread and nut combination actually does. (google "youngs modulus" )

 

Also interesting is that many of the fasteners used on bigger engines aren't torqued, they are stretched - i wonder why?

[henri1972]

It's frightening reading some of the advice here - I wouldn't let some of the posters change a wheel on a wheelbarrow, yet alone mess around with a motorized carriage.

 

People need to take the trouble to read and understand what a bolt and a thread and nut combination actually does. (google "youngs modulus" )

 

Also interesting is that many of the fasteners used on bigger engines aren't torqued, they are stretched - i wonder why?

 

 

it would only affect the torque if it was going into a blind hole where the grease would cause pressure at the end of the bolt seeing as the heel board is open then the bolt could be torqued up

 

Wrong - very wrong. It's nothing to do with hydraulic'ing. 

 

Torque settings are supposed to be with both threads clean and dry. Lube them up and preload goes all over the place.

Remember the idea is to take the bolt to just below it's elastic limit for maximum clamping force (if it's required).

 

Yes torque is very important, but it becomes meaningless if conditions aren't always the same.

 

As fr brakes I wouldn't let anything other than brake fluid near seals - copperease is OK near pivots and fixings though.

As for torque on fixings through to captive nuts on sheet metal -  I don't think I would bother myself - 

 

so you do not use red grease on brake components when assembling seals and pistons on brakes  ????

[Captain Mainwaring]

I think you need to be a bit more precise - "red grease" ?

 

You've got be very careful with what you mix up with modern lubricants, cleansers and sealing materials.

 

You can never go far wrong with using the fluid intended in the system as an assembly lubricant.

[henri1972]

I think you need to be a bit more precise - "red grease" ?

 

You've got be very careful with what you mix up with modern lubricants, cleansers and sealing materials.

 

You can never go far wrong with using the fluid intended in the system as an assembly lubricant.

castrol girling rubber grease good enough for you

[Captain Mainwaring]

 

I think you need to be a bit more precise - "red grease" ?

 

You've got be very careful with what you mix up with modern lubricants, cleansers and sealing materials.

 

You can never go far wrong with using the fluid intended in the system as an assembly lubricant.

castrol girling rubber grease good enough for you

 

 

 

 

Ya thanks for the clarification - turns out that the red stuff is a jelyfied brake fluid so you can't go wrong with brake fluid either

[Icey]

I work in the trade, we use copper grease on everthing except brake components!

If you are so concerned, why not take the manufacturers to court??

 

This is the 2nd thread I've seen you commenting in where you use your work 'in the trade' as an excuse to give bad advise. Just because you do it 'in the trade' doesn't make it correct. If someone questions it, don't fall back on that as a justification, produce some evidence (even a Wiki article will do!) or explain it in real details.

[Captain Mainwaring]

 

I work in the trade, we use copper grease on everthing except brake components!

If you are so concerned, why not take the manufacturers to court??

 

This is the 2nd thread I've seen you commenting in where you use your work 'in the trade' as an excuse to give bad advise. Just because you do it 'in the trade' doesn't make it correct. If someone questions it, don't fall back on that as a justification, produce some evidence (even a Wiki article will do!) or explain it in real details.

 

 

 

 

Hehehehe...sometimes a picture paints a thousand words and conversely 3 words can paint a picture of great detail

[HarrysMini]

 

I work in the trade, we use copper grease on everthing except brake components!

If you are so concerned, why not take the manufacturers to court??

 

This is the 2nd thread I've seen you commenting in where you use your work 'in the trade' as an excuse to give bad advise. Just because you do it 'in the trade' doesn't make it correct. If someone questions it, don't fall back on that as a justification, produce some evidence (even a Wiki article will do!) or explain it in real details.

 

Agree with this 100%. The way it is done 'in the trade' is usually to get things done as quickly as possible to get as many cars through as possible, I know this, because I too work 'in the trade', albeit as a volunteer. It is not necessarily the way to do things if you want things to last and work properly.

[zerobelow]

Also note that, for the purpose of "clean and dry", zinc plating (which is often found on high tensile fasteners) is also considered to be a lubricant, and not "dry". It seems to be about a 10% lower torque setting when using zinc plated fasteners. 

 

I also have this chart as a reference when I've had to use antiseize, etc: 

 

http://www.repaireng...rque-chart.html