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Leyland Clubman Resto


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#106 colinf1

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Posted 08 September 2014 - 08:35 AM

74 leylands had pot joints not uni joints
 
Not much I can do about it,  the entire engine/gearbox is not original according to the numbers 99Y and chassis code says its 1098cc - 022D2S2M10. The gear shifter housing is also a bit of a bodge job, rear bracket was tec-screwed on, just the one!
 
Check one a tappet adjuster that timmy850 had spotted, slot is slightly squahed
 
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Looks like some one has prised the oil seal out and damaged the surface, on the timing chain cover..
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Also came across these 2 bolts, that have been grinded back
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Any ideas?


#107 colinf1

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Posted 16 September 2014 - 09:25 AM

Picked up my parcel from Minispares from the post office. Oil seals, twin horn set, rocker cover t-bars and adjustable tie-rods. Started to put one drive side cover on with new seal and gasket, had to stop after I got it done, mozzies where out in force by 5.30.



#108 colinf1

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 10:11 AM

Cleaned the fuel pump up and reattached it to the block, then went to fit the water bypass hose. Turns out I order the water pump without the water bypass hole. Quick modification to sort that, at least I'll remember to use the new fitting kit this time around!
 
Slowly coming together..
 
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#109 Jared Mk3

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 10:24 AM

Moving along, keep going.



#110 colinf1

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 02:33 AM

What do you do with a cnc plasma cutter and a scrap piece of 3mm sheet? Sump guard of course. Now, wonder if it will fit once its folded into shape...
 
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#111 Jared Mk3

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 07:49 AM

I like that!



#112 colinf1

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Posted 04 October 2014 - 06:43 AM

Had a big clean up today, place was a mess, parts scattered all over the place due to not finishing one job before moving to the next one. Cleaned out my storage room and located all my tools so now I know exactly where everything is.
 
Straightened up the dinge in the front, just needs to come out a tad more. Also cut up my rear seat panel to get it welded in. Also cut out the resting plate and bolt plate for the fuel tank, I'll weld them into place to suit the RH fuel tank.
 
I will need to fold up a a few pieces during the week and try to get them all welded in soon. Made a plan to try and concentrate on getting all the body prep'd and sprayed by the end of the month.
 
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#113 colinf1

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 06:14 AM

Got the front subframe rebuild underway today. Started off by cleaning up the lower arms, cleaning them up and painting them. Then moved onto the upper arms, which was a struggle to get the needle bearings out. Eventually got them all out and got the arms cleaned up and painted. 
Put the lower arms back on with new bushes, new adjustable tie rods. Then new upper bearings, shaft and seals.
 
Took apart one front drum/hub. Need to clean it up and pop in some new bearings before building it back up with new ball joints. 
 
Its getting there, just takes time.


#114 Jared Mk3

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 06:26 AM

Been waiting to hear about some progress. Keep it up. Sounds like a proper job is being done!

#115 domdee

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 04:31 PM

great clubby

nice to see some differences to the uk ones



#116 colinf1

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 05:56 AM

Sorted out some short 1/4" bolts for the radiator shroud. Had to drill out the holes in the shroud to suit them, so at least thats the radiator ready to go back on.
 
Stripped down both hubs, there soaking in white vinegar at the minute to try and loosen some of the grease off. I'll clean them up during the week to get them ready for new bearings. 
 
A few tool victims this weekend, firstly a flat head screw driver that I was using to pry out the needle bearings. Then a 1/2" bar that has twisted from trying to undo the hub nut.
 
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Front subframe waiting for hubs to go back on. 
 
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#117 sixtyeight

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 05:33 AM

nice work, great project!

 

a couple of things to note - with the etch primer, be aware that it is porous and will absorb water over time..

with the dash design, have you checked the available depth for mounting the radio at the top, I seem to recall it hits the firewall, and needs to be mounted below the gauges...?


Edited by sixtyeight, 20 October 2014 - 05:35 AM.


#118 colinf1

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:48 AM

Cheers sixtyeight. I never even gave that a thought. I suppose I could always move it below the guages, but thats still a long way off before I need to start worrying about it.

 

Thanks for the tip about the etch. The car is in a relativity dry spot, but most of it will be rubbed off when I do the 2k etch/primer filler prior to top coat. I just didn't want to leave it sitting bare. 



#119 1293gt

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 08:12 AM

Really good work there sir!

Looking ace.



#120 StuM

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Posted 21 October 2014 - 10:29 AM

Great to read this thread - thanks for sharing.  

 

Quick question - did you follow any kind of guide when building up the front subframe, or was it just the reversal of stripping as you stripped it yourself?  I bought my Clubman in bits, so have been trying to find an online guide to building up the front subframe - amazed not to have found loads of them.  I have a big tub of random bolts which is not useful, so I'm going to buy all new from Moss - at least that way I know which bolts are which!

 

Thanks,

Stu






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