308 replies to this topic

[colinf1]

So, back to it today. Tried to remove the broken banjo bolt with an extractor, no joy, it snapped. Then tried to drill out the extractor, no joy. Need to get a new banjo bolt and front set of braided hoses.

 

 

Eventually got the driveshaft couplers in, after alot of swearing, shouting and tutting. Had to take the engine off the subframe to get enough room to get them to go together. 

 

 

Then set about removing the rear subframe. It came out easy enough, its ready to be cleaned up tomorrow.

 

 

Reattached the alternator bracket and oil filter housing and pipe. Heres how the engine looks now.

 

 

And the car almost matches my sig picture, just need to get the doors back on!

 

[Jared Mk3]

Looking good Colin. That engine and subframe look neat too. Can't remember if you said anything about colour choice - what you going for?

[colinf1]

A Holden GM colour, Sting Red with white roof.

 

[sixtyeight]

It's not fun getting the drive shaft couplings in with the engine in situ. I've got the ql5000 nylon type, and found I could do it (only just) by rolling the car back a forwards, and a bit of force. I have small girly hands though so reaching down the back and holding the uni's in place was not too bad. My engine/subframe were in the car when I did it!

 

looking good though, another step done!

[Jared Mk3]

That's a really nice colour, looks bright as well. Will definitely suit your wheels.

[colinf1]

It's not fun getting the drive shaft couplings in with the engine in situ. I've got the ql5000 nylon type, and found I could do it (only just) by rolling the car back a forwards, and a bit of force. I have small girly hands though so reaching down the back and holding the uni's in place was not too bad. My engine/subframe were in the car when I did it!

 

looking good though, another step done!

 

That makes my effort sound alot easier! It was hard enough getting the ubolts on with just the subframe to avoid, you must have patience of a saint!

[colinf1]

Thanks Jared, yes, its nice and bright, seen a car with it the other day, it was maybe 2km in front of me and it was so bright when the sun was shining on it, looked like it was glowing.

If you seen the wheel that I had done the test to, it wouldnt really look good lol. Its been sat out in the weather uncovered for months now, the gold is still good, but the polished lip is rubbish looking as I had started to resand it but gave up with 25% done. I need to spend a good day on the wheels, get them finally finished.

[Jared Mk3]

Seeing them like that might give you some incentive 

[sixtyeight]

 

It's not fun getting the drive shaft couplings in with the engine in situ. I've got the ql5000 nylon type, and found I could do it (only just) by rolling the car back a forwards, and a bit of force. I have small girly hands though so reaching down the back and holding the uni's in place was not too bad. My engine/subframe were in the car when I did it!

 

looking good though, another step done!

 

That makes my effort sound alot easier! It was hard enough getting the ubolts on with just the subframe to avoid, you must have patience of a saint!

 

I was tempted to take the engine out, but I have this philosophy with this build that once something is bolted on, it ain't coming off! So there was no way the engine was being lifted up! 

 

with the wheels, some clear coat on the bare alloy should keep them looking good once made shiny!

[colinf1]

Problem with clear coating the polished surface is, it flakes off if you touch it. Theres nothing for it to grip too. I'll just seal them with some wax once there sorted with new tyres.

 

Today I power washed the rear subframe, it looks pretty good, few pieces of surface rust, nothing a quick grind wont sort out. 

 

Then got the car on its side to inspect the underside. All looks pretty solid, no signs of any rust or damage so I give it a quick clean and degrease and recoated the rust proofing. Then started to clean up the engine bay, with wire brush on grinder. Looks better already. Used some 17" tyres to gently roll it over, making sure to keep the weight on the seams. Worked a treat!

 

 

Think the 17s fill the arches enough?

 

 

 

 

 

Ill need to straighten some of it up slightly...

 

 

There was 2 patches of cushioning fabric on the rear subby, can these be replaced with rubber pads?

[Jared Mk3]

Looks pretty solid underneath there. I also had to straighten my rear subframe as some had used that back section to connect or tow rope or cable to . . . I left that felt off of my 'frame - less chance of rust.

[sixtyeight]

I left the fabric off mine also

[colinf1]

Got some body prep done this weekend, sanding, sanding and a bit more sanding for good measure. Its almost ready to be primed. 

 

Didnt get a chance to take good pictures earlier, needed to get in and out of the heat, plus was covered in primer dust and didnt want to get it all over my phone.

 

 

 

Body is now pretty smooth, a few small imperfections just to touch up. Bonnet has a bit of filling, seems to be a big dent on drivers side, but cant seem to pop it out. Ideally a new bonnet would be better, but due to all the uncertainty hanging over me now (visa issues), I need to get it finished asap.

[Jared Mk3]

Looks nice and straight now.

[MINIMADrt]

the fabric in the rear subframe was fitted to early minis later ones had rubber as the fabric use to help rot. but can be left un-fitted