44 replies to this topic

[josh austin mini city e 82]

 

 

 

 

 

Points or electronic?

Sorry forgot to mention, electronic it's a 1993 sprite engine
 

Dead ignition module?

Are they prone to fail ? I know they see quite a lot of water position where they are and the terminals inside are a little rusted. Cleaned them up but made no difference
 

It depends the cheap ones dont last - and they will just fail as you described. If you do need a new one go for a Lucas one from someone like simonbbc :
http://www.simonbbc....le-lucas-dab118

Also just to make sure will this work on my 1275 sprite engine ? It says it's for a rover metro turbo ?
Thanks
 

yes the dab118 fit lots of old cars - see the application list on his ebay listing : http://www.ebay.co.u...n-/130549689375

Ok thanks for all the help iv just ordered one so should be here Monday or Tuesday I'll post on here again and let you know
Hopefully it fixes the issue

[Moggyton]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Points or electronic?

Sorry forgot to mention, electronic it's a 1993 sprite engine
 

Dead ignition module?

Are they prone to fail ? I know they see quite a lot of water position where they are and the terminals inside are a little rusted. Cleaned them up but made no difference
 

It depends the cheap ones dont last - and they will just fail as you described. If you do need a new one go for a Lucas one from someone like simonbbc :
http://www.simonbbc....le-lucas-dab118

Also just to make sure will this work on my 1275 sprite engine ? It says it's for a rover metro turbo ?
Thanks
 

yes the dab118 fit lots of old cars - see the application list on his ebay listing : http://www.ebay.co.u...n-/130549689375

Ok thanks for all the help iv just ordered one so should be here Monday or Tuesday I'll post on here again and let you know
Hopefully it fixes the issue

 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

This is the one i went for, seems good quality.

[richw911]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Points or electronic?

Sorry forgot to mention, electronic it's a 1993 sprite engine
 

Dead ignition module?

Are they prone to fail ? I know they see quite a lot of water position where they are and the terminals inside are a little rusted. Cleaned them up but made no difference
 

It depends the cheap ones dont last - and they will just fail as you described. If you do need a new one go for a Lucas one from someone like simonbbc :
http://www.simonbbc....le-lucas-dab118

Also just to make sure will this work on my 1275 sprite engine ? It says it's for a rover metro turbo ?
Thanks
 

yes the dab118 fit lots of old cars - see the application list on his ebay listing : http://www.ebay.co.u...n-/130549689375

Ok thanks for all the help iv just ordered one so should be here Monday or Tuesday I'll post on here again and let you know
Hopefully it fixes the issue

 

Be sure to apply heat sink compound to the rear metal plate upon installation :)

[josh austin mini city e 82]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Points or electronic?

Sorry forgot to mention, electronic it's a 1993 sprite engine
 

Dead ignition module?

Are they prone to fail ? I know they see quite a lot of water position where they are and the terminals inside are a little rusted. Cleaned them up but made no difference
 

It depends the cheap ones dont last - and they will just fail as you described. If you do need a new one go for a Lucas one from someone like simonbbc :
http://www.simonbbc....le-lucas-dab118

Also just to make sure will this work on my 1275 sprite engine ? It says it's for a rover metro turbo ?
Thanks
 

yes the dab118 fit lots of old cars - see the application list on his ebay listing : http://www.ebay.co.u...n-/130549689375

Ok thanks for all the help iv just ordered one so should be here Monday or Tuesday I'll post on here again and let you know
Hopefully it fixes the issue
 

Be sure to apply heat sink compound to the rear metal plate upon installation :)

Thanks I will do haha don't want to cook the thing !

[KernowCooper]

How to test the module is all here on TMF http://www.theminifo...agnosis-repair/

[Dan]

Do make sure you are using the right coil, judging from what you've said above about it being 12v and how you measured it you don't know what you are looking for. It needs to be an ultra low impedance coil. Type GCL143 or equivalent with a primary resistance of 0.85 ohms. Using the wrong coil, or hooking it up to a ballasted instead of straight 12v supply, are the two common ways to kill this module. And it could easily work fine for 6 months before failing if hooked up wrong, it normally takes 18 months to 2 years to fry. Personally I think you should maybe do some more testing before replacing it but you've bought one now and it could well be what's needed.

The last thing that heat transfer compound would do is keep engine heat out of the module! It's there to conduct heat away from the module into the dizzy body, transistors need cooling.

[Captain Mainwaring]

This may be of help to you and others searching this issue :

 

 

If your ignition amp is dead - it may not start / have no spark or it can cause an intermittent missfire at higher revs.

You may find you have the early 2 pin type which is very hard to get hold of, you can convert it to the much more popular 3 pin type.

Even if you can get hold of a new 2 pin one it is better to have the 3 pin type as if lets you down
 the 3 pin version is usually on the shelf at most motor factors.

To run the new 3 pin type you will need a new lead to run from the module to the coil.

You can buy the new lead on ebay for £12.99 :   http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c25639ee1

However you can also get an ignition module that comes complete with 3 pin plug : http://www.ebay.co.u...=item415b3320ec

Then you just need some wire to make your own 3 pin lead.

 

The wiring from 2 pin to 3 pin is as follows :



The centre pin is not used.

When you fit a new module be sure to apply some heat sink compound to the silver metal back of the module - this will stop the heat of the engine from eventuality frying your new module.

 

Nooop...that ain't the reason for it it - but very informative post.

[richw911]

Thanks for the correction guys every day is a schoolday

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Do make sure you are using the right coil, judging from what you've said above about it being 12v and how you measured it you don't know what you are looking for. It needs to be an ultra low impedance coil. Type GCL143 or equivalent with a primary resistance of 0.85 ohms. Using the wrong coil, or hooking it up to a ballasted instead of straight 12v supply, are the two common ways to kill this module. And it could easily work fine for 6 months before failing if hooked up wrong, it normally takes 18 months to 2 years to fry. Personally I think you should maybe do some more testing before replacing it but you've bought one now and it could well be what's needed.

The last thing that heat transfer compound would do is keep engine heat out of the module! It's there to conduct heat away from the module into the dizzy body, transistors need cooling.

Thankyou for the informative reply dan. How will I know what type of coil pack I need then ? At the moment I'm not sure if it's a ballast coil or non ballast I'll have to check and make sure. Like I say iv ordered a new one anyway.
Thanks

[Dan]

  Look at what's written on the coil, and at the number and colour of the wires supplying it.  If the + terminal has a pair of cables, one pink/white and the other white/yellow then it is being supplied by ballast which is wrong.  If it's got just plain white cables it's fine.  The coil should ideally say 'electronic' on the side of it. If its unmarked you can measure the resistance of the primary winding with your multimeter.  That is the resistance from the + to the -, which should be 0.85 ohms or thereabouts.  Obviously do this with it disconnected.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

  Look at what's written on the coil, and at the number and colour of the wires supplying it.  If the + terminal has a pair of cables, one pink/white and the other white/yellow then it is being supplied by ballast which is wrong.  If it's got just plain white cables it's fine.  The coil should ideally say 'electronic' on the side of it. If its unmarked you can measure the resistance of the primary winding with your multimeter.  That is the resistance from the + to the -, which should be 0.85 ohms or thereabouts.  Obviously do this with it disconnected.

I can't remember exactly but off the top if my head I'm sure there are two wires on the + side and - side. The coil is for an electronic ignition. I can't check it just yet as the mini is at my girlfriends house looking sorry for itself on her drive :-S but I'm sure there are two leads on the terminals.

[Dan]

  Ignore the leads from the coil to the ignition module, just check the ones that run from the car to supply the coil.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Not including the wires from the module there is one wire on the + and - which is correct isn't it ? The wiring in my mini is a bit spaghetti like really, would greatly benefit from a full re-wire but I don't have the time to do it at the moment.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Well the new module will be here later so I'll test it after work and report back !

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Well I'm in need of help again :-( changed the module and still no luck.