44 replies to this topic

[cal844]

Coil!

[Dan]

It wouldn't be what you conventionally see when the coil breaks down really. I remember once someone on here had a similar problem with one of these dizzies and it turned out the whole thing had broken up internally, the coils and reluctors that do the sensing inside it had come apart. It might be worth having a quick look inside it, or maybe do try the coil if you have a spare.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Anyone ? Or I'll just end up going down the replacing part after part rout ? I'm going to test the coil next but I won't be able to untill the weekend as my car is about 30 miles from where I live. I know coils don't really tend to fail but what else could it be ?

[josh austin mini city e 82]

It wouldn't be what you conventionally see when the coil breaks down really. I remember once someone on here had a similar problem with one of these dizzies and it turned out the whole thing had broken up internally, the coils and reluctors that do the sensing inside it had come apart. It might be worth having a quick look inside it, or maybe do try the coil if you have a spare.

Sorry I didn't realise you had replied it wasn't coming up for some reason, where abouts in the dizzy is it ? Beneath where the rotor arm sits ? Don't really want to have to replace the whole thing ! What would cause it all to break up though? It was working fine then quite literally just cut out on me. Something else that may be worth mentioning is before it cut out my rev gauge was playing up, it always works perfectly but when I was driving that day the needle kept fluctuating throughout the rev range, sort of bouncing round like something wasn't working correctly. My rev gauge is wired up to the + and - side of the coil as it says to in the installing instructions. Could this point to the coil starting to fail ? Or would a coil just fail instantly ?
Thanks for all the replies and help

[cal844]

It wouldn't be what you conventionally see when the coil breaks down really. I remember once someone on here had a similar problem with one of these dizzies and it turned out the whole thing had broken up internally, the coils and reluctors that do the sensing inside it had come apart. It might be worth having a quick look inside it, or maybe do try the coil if you have a spare.

Sorry I didn't realise you had replied it wasn't coming up for some reason, where abouts in the dizzy is it ? Beneath where the rotor arm sits ? Don't really want to have to replace the whole thing ! What would cause it all to break up though? It was working fine then quite literally just cut out on me. Something else that may be worth mentioning is before it cut out my rev gauge was playing up, it always works perfectly but when I was driving that day the needle kept fluctuating throughout the rev range, sort of bouncing round like something wasn't working correctly. My rev gauge is wired up to the + and - side of the coil as it says to in the installing instructions. Could this point to the coil starting to fail ? Or would a coil just fail instantly ?
Thanks for all the replies and help

Going by what you said 'rev guage fluctuating'

This tells you it is electrical.. Try running a new white wire to the coil

[KernowCooper]

Tells me by the rev counter jumping about its either a LT (low tension) fault on the ignition or the rev counter has developed a fault internally. try it without the rev counter connected to rule this out.

 

Normally rev counters dont connect directly onto the + feed of the coil they use a switched internal feed of 12v from the ignition switch circuit

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Tells me by the rev counter jumping about its either a LT (low tension) fault on the ignition or the rev counter has developed a fault internally. try it without the rev counter connected to rule this out.
 
Normally rev counters dont connect directly onto the + feed of the coil they use a switched internal feed of 12v from the ignition switch circuit

Thanks for the reply, iv tried it with the rev gauge disconnected but made no difference. Well iv got a friend letting me borrow his coil pack tomorrow so should find out if it's the coil at fault. If it isn't the only other thing I could guess at is a damaged wire ? Or the connector from the coil + - to the module ?

[josh austin mini city e 82]

It wouldn't be what you conventionally see when the coil breaks down really. I remember once someone on here had a similar problem with one of these dizzies and it turned out the whole thing had broken up internally, the coils and reluctors that do the sensing inside it had come apart. It might be worth having a quick look inside it, or maybe do try the coil if you have a spare.

Sorry I didn't realise you had replied it wasn't coming up for some reason, where abouts in the dizzy is it ? Beneath where the rotor arm sits ? Don't really want to have to replace the whole thing ! What would cause it all to break up though? It was working fine then quite literally just cut out on me. Something else that may be worth mentioning is before it cut out my rev gauge was playing up, it always works perfectly but when I was driving that day the needle kept fluctuating throughout the rev range, sort of bouncing round like something wasn't working correctly. My rev gauge is wired up to the + and - side of the coil as it says to in the installing instructions. Could this point to the coil starting to fail ? Or would a coil just fail instantly ?
Thanks for all the replies and help

Going by what you said 'rev guage fluctuating'

This tells you it is electrical.. Try running a new white wire to the coil

To the coil from where ?
Thanks

[cal844]

if you chase the white wire from the coil back through the wiring loom, it will splice into the white wires on the fusebox.

 

cut the old one out from its connection near the fusebox and use a piggyback spade terminal to join the pieces of cable back together

 

piggyback spades: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5661235303

 

male and female spades: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5af38842cc

 

it will amaze you at the amount of these i go through!

[KernowCooper]

Run a temporary wire before you go cutting the loom up to by pass your current coils 12v switched feed

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Run a temporary wire before you go cutting the loom up to by pass your current coils 12v switched feed

I will do, my friends lending me a spare coil today so I'll let you all know how it goes

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Problem solved ! Ended up with a new coil pack and a new wire from the ignition module to the coil + & -
So it was either the coil or the wire at fault ! I'm going to text the old coil as I don't think it is the coil that was faulty, main reason being coils don't really seem to fail often ? Also it was new about 8 months ago ?
Checked the connecting block on the module/coil connector and it does seem a little worse for wear.
But it's fixed !

[Moggyton]

Problem solved ! I'm going to text the old coil

Dont think you will get a reply.

[josh austin mini city e 82]

Problem solved ! I'm going to text the old coil

Dont think you will get a reply.

*test -.- oops

[Fozz]

This may be of help to you and others searching this issue :

 

 

If your ignition amp is dead - it may not start / have no spark or it can cause an intermittent missfire at higher revs.

You may find you have the early 2 pin type which is very hard to get hold of, you can convert it to the much more popular 3 pin type.

Even if you can get hold of a new 2 pin one it is better to have the 3 pin type as if lets you down
 the 3 pin version is usually on the shelf at most motor factors.

To run the new 3 pin type you will need a new lead to run from the module to the coil.

You can buy the new lead on ebay for £12.99 :   http://www.ebay.co.u...=item1c25639ee1

However you can also get an ignition module that comes complete with 3 pin plug : http://www.ebay.co.u...=item415b3320ec

Then you just need some wire to make your own 3 pin lead.

 

The wiring from 2 pin to 3 pin is as follows :



The centre pin is not used.

When you fit a new module be sure to apply some heat sink compound to the silver metal back of the module - this will conduct heat away from the module into the dizzy body, transistors need cooling.

finally i found this    many thx mate!!!!