74 replies to this topic

[l_jonez]

I can't think of anyone who has had their shafts re hardened / heat treated. The only part of the shaft that needs to be treated is the splines.

[BradleyRogerson]

alright cheers ijones one less thing to do, im going to get balanced today so hopefully thats another thing out the way and to move onto the alternator, did you manage to use that tiny alternator you found? if it was your thread i read it on 

[l_jonez]

Yes I used it but that was for my VTEC build.
If the Micra engine ever needs to come out I'll source another one for it.

[BradleyRogerson]

anyone know what this bit is on my tank? bought it the other day and parcel force have damaged this part   i cant find it online anywhere im guessing its called a breather valve or something but do i even need it? 

 

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[l_jonez]

I think its part of the emmisions/charcoal canister system. I binned it

[BradleyRogerson]

so just bin it and put a normal breather pipe on? i thought it might have to be pressurized 

[l_jonez]

Yep just a normal breather pipe down under the floor to fresh air.

[BradleyRogerson]

anyone know where i can get a wiring diagram for a 99 model? and has anyone wired a nats loom in? just wondering how hard it is

[ibrooks]

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send what should be the correct wiring diagram.

 

I've wired NATS from a '98 car and kept it running but beware there are different versions of NATS. I'm not 100% on how to identify them all and what the rough changeover dates were though.

 

Iain

[BradleyRogerson]

mines a 99 so suspect it should be the same as yours think the only things that changed would have been electric windows and stuff but mine doesnt have any of that... did you find it hard to wire at all? iv looked at the drummerians wiring guide but doesnt really help me with my loom
i'll pm you now :) cheers

[ibrooks]

Diagrams sent. I suspect you'll need to pull the cowling of around the steering column and check on the NATS IMMU there. Hopefully if it's got the same wires that are in the Nissan manual I sent it should be the same system. You'll need to keep the key as that needs to be near the reader to allow it to run. I haven't decided on whether I'll tape the key permanently to the reader or if I'll turn it into an immobiliser fob that I need to place somewhere to make the car start when I turn the original key.

 

Iain

[BradleyRogerson]

iv cable tied the key to the reader for safe keeping at the moment but no doubt it will probably stay tied to it,

cheers again Iain 

[ibrooks]

I kind of like the idea of the immobiliser. I'm thinking of cutting the actual key off so I've just got the plastic part of the key as a sort of keyring. Then I need to experiment with just how close it needs to be to the reader. I've also been told it only needs to be close when starting and once it's running the key could theoretically be removed from the car. That would make life far easier as you would only need to hold that fob somewhere whilst starting the car and then it could go back in your pocket/on the keyring.

 

Iain

[BradleyRogerson]

i had the same idea! it would be handy to have but think i'll experiment once everything wired and running. I should be starting the wring soon i just need to get a belt for the alternator and fit front brake lines and brackets :) oh and find a coolant pipe..

[ibrooks]

I've been making the cooling system over the last few days - more complicated when the engine's at the opposite end to the radiator. Fortunately I spend way too much on tools (toys) and I've got a Hilmor pipe bender to bend the ally pipe and a beading tool to put nice pretty beads on the end of it to prevent the silicone hoses from coming off.

 

Next up is fuel lines - again front to rear. Then the brake and clutch pipes. Then the wiring. Then an accelerator cable (going to need to be about 10 feet long).

 

The tunnel is starting to get seriously crowded.