18 replies to this topic

[purplesuit1]

Ok i've done a bit of research but still cant really find my answer. How exactly are you supposed to set static timing? I have read, that for my 1275 with electronic ignition i should be able to set it at 5 degrees BTDC and it should be able to start up. I am not really sure how to check what the dizzy is at if the engine isn't on since i cant use a timing light. Im sure its just something simple im missing here.

 

Thanks

[CityEPete]

If you find tdc buy checking number one piston is at the top of its compression stroke (take the plugs out and turn it by hand) you can just look at the marking on the pulley in relation to the comb, set it to 5 degrees btdc at that point you want the module to be inline with one of the magnets on the spinning disc and the rotor tip pointing at the contact in the dizzy cap for number one's plug lead, if not turn the dizzy body accordingly until it is (the disc will stay still). Should be close enough to fire up for a wiggle of the dizzy before timing with the gun imo.

Afaik the spark actually occurs just after the collapse of the circuit so the sensor will need to be just past but hey lets be serious you are not going to get that accurate by eye.

Edited by CityEPete, 28 May 2014 - 09:03 PM.

[CityEPete]

Failing that a test lamp across the lt coil connections when you have it a 5 degrees btdc, turn the dizzy body clockwise or anti clockwise until it lights then move it until it just goes out, that will be close. Obviously you will need power to the module to do it.

Edited by CityEPete, 28 May 2014 - 09:08 PM.

[purplesuit1]

Cool thanks, thats exactly what i needed, and for the test lamp i just make it so it touches the positive and negative on the coil?

Thanks

[CityEPete]

Is the car all wired up? If so then yes, the module gets it earth from the engine and positive from the + on your coil when the ignition is on, when it detects the magnet it sends the earth to the coil -

If you test your lamp between the coil + and engine earth strap first to see it lights then put the negative probe to the - of the coil and twist the dizzy until it lights, make sure the rotor is pointing at the connection you have used for number one and the mark is at 5 btdc, make sure the other three leads are in the correct order going around the cap and to each plug.

[CityEPete]

I think thats right, anyone want to add, its late and im tired!

[dklawson]

Is this an aftermarket or factory electronic ignition.  If factory... I don't know if it can be static timed with a test lamp.  However, I have not worked with factory electronic ignitions and will be very interested to hear if this works for you.  If the test lamp does work, be sure to post your results.

 

Just to clarify things, if this were a car with points or an aftermarket (AccuSpark or Ignitor type) ignition, the test lamp goes between coil (-) and earth.  With the engine manually turned to about 5 BTDC as described above, turn the key to the "run" position.  Loosen the dizzy clamp and turn the dizzy body counterclockwise until the test lamp goes off... then turn a few degrees more.  Stop and SLOWLY turn the dizzy body clockwise until the test lamp just turns on.  When the test lamp turns on, that is the moment that a spark would be created by the coil so you lock the dizzy down in that location.

 

Again, I don't know if the factory ignition module can be static timed.  For that to work the module has to be able to support zero-speed firing.  Some ignitions are not designed to fire unless the distributor shaft is turning.

 

You can also read the PDF I have on static timing in general.  Visit the link below and select the static timing PDF.

https://sites.google...wson/home/files

[CityEPete]

Are you sure about that test lamp connection dklawson, you can do it that way but the lamp will not burn as brightly because it is in series, the lamp wont illuminate the way I suggested until the points/module close because the ht side is only earthed at that point in a fashion as the spark jumps.

[Yoda]

To Clarify, Dougs description may be a slight typo. I believe he meant to put " Coil (+) and earth." and yes it is at the moment that the points open that the spark is created!

 

Edit. this method will not work with most electronic ignition systems as Doug has already stated. So worth a try if it is an aftermarket unit, but dont be surprised if you get no result. 

Edited by Yoda, 29 May 2014 - 07:27 AM.

[CityEPete]

To create a spark if it uses a standard coil then no matter what system is used then it must put voltage across the coil when the dizzy is adjusted to the position you want, that's why I suggested a lamp (or voltage meter) across the SW+ and CB- rather than the old school method of the lamp or an ammeter in series as dklawson suggests? (I don't think it's a typo, it's just the old way of doing it where the lamp is in series which works well on the bench for adjusting points etc) It's also why I asked if the car is wired up, if not then a simple temporary setup could be arranged but I decided not to try and explain that if not needed.

Edited by CityEPete, 29 May 2014 - 08:57 AM.

[dklawson]

My method does not wire the test lamp in series with the coil. What I posted was not a typo.  The connection I use/suggest is to connect the test lamp between coil (-) and earth (effectively parallel to the points).  With the ignition in the run position, coil (+) will always have power on it (12V on standard igntions, 6-9V on ballast when the points are closed... 12V when the points are open).  Regardless of ignition type, coil (-) will switch between 0V and 12V whenever the points (module) changes from closed to open ( this is the same voltage swing that Smiths RVC and modern tachometers sense).  When the points or module open, the test lamp wired my way turns on, and that's when the coil fires.  Wired as I propose, look for a test lamp connected between coil (-) and earth to turn "ON" then lock the distributor clamp.

 

CityPete's method of connecting the test lamp across the coil (parallel to the coil) will also work but the lamp will behave differently.  When the points are closed, the lamp should be on as it has a path to earth through the points/module.  When the points open, the lamp looses its path to earth so the lamp will turn OFF at the point that the coil will fire (the opposite of my method).  However, I don't know how well parallel wiring the lamp to the coil works as I don't use a test lamp that way.  Since the coil is typically 3 Ohms or less, it will be the preferred path to earth for current flowing through the ignition system.  The test lamp wired in parallel to the coil may be on but only dimly since the lion's share of current will/may be flowing through the coil.

[Yoda]

My bad, I misread or should i say read too quickly and made an assumption that the earth was being read through the points. I go away now LOL

Edited by Yoda, 29 May 2014 - 11:57 AM.

[CityEPete]

I'd go with my method with an electronic module, I see what you are doing by lighting the lamp during the time the points are open but my method is just a visual indicator of what the module is doing and should work with any type of electronic ignition that has a coil and dizzy.

That's a third method then if you count the old way of putting the lamp between the CB and the spade terminal removed from it.

[CityEPete]

Items wired in parallel really don't work like that anyway, you can wire heavy loads and small loads in parallel without one affecting the other, if you have bright lamps in your kitchen it won't make the lounge one dim, when the car is running you might see a volt drop like that with the car running but this is static timing.

Edited by CityEPete, 29 May 2014 - 01:17 PM.

[KernowCooper]

The bulb for testing purposes should be a 12v 2w one, and the HALL EFFECT electronic triggers should show the coil trigger point between 12v coil + and the coil -. Don't do as one of my customers did use a 12v lead lamp because it was easier to see and brighter, unless you have a spare module.