5 replies to this topic

[Nipplegreaser]

Before you put the castle nut back on, make sure the taper washer is in the hub, its a big chunky thing, so you cant miss it, then wind the nut on. When its tight put the wheel back on and lower the car back down and tighted the castle nut up as tight as you can. Check to see if the grooves in the nut line up with the split pin hole on the CV, if they dont DON'T LOOSEN THE NUT till they do, TIGHTEN IT A BIT MORE till they do, then put the split pin back in and bend it over

It's incorrect and dangerous advice !

NEVER EVER EVER tighten the stub axle nut up with the split bevel washer insitu, the torque wrench will give a false reading and 'click out' too early. Use the correct tool to pre-compress the bearing into the hub or make one out of 8mm thick plate with a 26mm hole in the middle.

The correct torque wrench setting for the stub axle castle nut is as follows:
Drum brake hub - 85lbft
Disc brake hub with on split pin hole - 180lbft then round to the next split pin hole (approx. 200lbft)
Disc brake hub with twin split pin hole - 150lbft then round to the next split pin hole

[Bluemini]

I wrote it.

NEVER EVER EVER tighten the stub axle nut up with the split bevel washer insitu

What are you on about here? How are you meant to fit the hub back on and tighten it up if you don't fit the tapered washer behind the castle nut??

I'm not on about fitting new bearings and using the force of tightening the hub to press the bearings in.

If you read it again you'll see what I'm talking about, the tapered washer is the chunky washer that goes behind the castle nut and is about 3cm ish diamiter, part number FAM9270.

So how is it dangerous then?

[Nipplegreaser]

The split bevel washer acts like a spring washer when torquing up the stub axle nut and the split digs into the drive flange and locks up causing the torque wrench to 'click out' too soon.

The correct way to tighten up the stub axle hub nut is using the correct flat tool or make one out of flat steel 80mm sq with a 26mm hole in it to force the hub onto the stub axle squarely and to pre-load the bearings correctly. The nut needs to be tightened up to the correct torque with the flat plate or tool behind the castle nut and then undone and the split bevel washer put in and the nut re-torqued. If not done this way then the stub axle nut will not be to the correct torque as any disturbance of the stub axle/hub bearings causes the bearing races to move laterally relative to each other. Hence, dangerous as the drive flange will not be held on tight enough and can also cause accelerate wear in the bearing races/stub axle o.d/hub inner surfaces.

[Bluemini]

Your right, the Haynes manual does say to do that, but then again it also says to do lots of other long winded pointless things for other jobs, like saying that gearbox re-builds are not a DIY job. I have never done it the way the Haynes book says and have never seen it done that way either and have even read articles by the experts saying that you just use a breaker bar and tighten it as tight as possible then a bit more! No chance of the hub being loose then...

[Nipplegreaser]

I accept that the Haynes manual offers a great deal of advice (A lot that Miniman5 could benefit from) but my advice is based upon 5 years as the lead technical support engineer for the world's leading bearing manufacturer, 18 months working for the mini specialist in my home town and working on minis for 18 years. Read MiniWorld May 2004 edition with the comparison between a mk1 and Posepack 2000 and see who maintains both the cars and my name just might spring up :cheese:

The split bevel washer should NOT be used to torque up the stub axle hub nut as it does give false readings on the torque wrench and it is folly to think otherwise.

[bluebottle]

well i've had no troubles over the last twenty years , guess i must be lucky then!