24 replies to this topic

[Vipernoir]

Nothing to chop !!
It's three nuts and two crimps on a new bit of wire.

[foggy]

Yes thanks. But just to be clear though! I keep the battery cable going to the remote solenoid? And just move the cable going from the switch side to the starter to the live side to the pre engaged starter solenoid? And then extend the red and white cable down to the new starter solenoid?

[Pigeonto]

Hmmm. There is a school of thought that says extending the small wire which used to trigger the wing solenoid and taking it instead down to the pre-engaged starter's trigger terminal is risky.   The heavy cable (which used to run from the wing-mounted remote solenoid to the old inertia starter but will in future go to the large terminal on the pre-engaged starter) needs to be on the same threaded terminal of that wing mounted solenoid as the heavy + cable from the battery is on. Doesn't matter which of the 2 terminals as long as they're both on the same one. Leave the small wire on the wing mounted solenoid where it always was. This leaves one threaded terminal on the wing solenoid unused. You can run your new small wire (which will trigger the pre-engaged starter's solenoid) from this unused terminal to the trigger spade terminal on the pre-engaged starter to remove the 'risk' .

[Captain Mainwaring]

Nothing to chop !!
It's three nuts and two crimps on a new bit of wire.

 

Can the ignition switch handle the inrush current of the pre-engaged starter coil?

[foggy]

Right.it seems the pre engaged starter i now have works but only when i bridge the terminals together.thus surely meaning the solenoid isn't working... for the time being whats stopping me bypassing the solenoid on the pre engaged starter and continue to use the wing mounted solenoid and just put the feed from the switch side of the wing solenoid directly onto the prengaged motor side of the solenoid? If that makes sense? Lol.

[Captain Mainwaring]

Nothing - that's what you should be doing anyway - the ignition switch will cough in it's rompers if you keep giving it that big coil to switch on and off - loads of nice inductive inrush there to weld up the contacts

[foggy]

Ok so is that a yes to what I said before? If I do that though, wouldn't it mean the plunger won't fire the cog out?

[Gilles1000]

Old post revival !!

 

I am in the process to rewire my setup. 1979 Mini, originally automatic, I did a conversion to A+ manual engine.

Same issues as some read over here, starter just clicking.

I installed a remote switch to shortcut the ignition switch, basically it's only connecting the two poles of the solenoid, the one build on the starter motor.

 

Now I want a proper installation and want to reuse the inertia solenoid (still built in the car). I read about how to use it as a heavy duty relay.

 

My only question is if somebody knows the thread of the big copper poles on the inertia solenoid? I am missing one nut and can't find the proper size. I tried M8, I tried 5/16 UNC, I tried screwing by hand some thread cutters on the one original nut I have, I tried to measure the pole thread with a thread brush, but I can't find the right size...

[mad4classics]

Old post revival !!

I am in the process to rewire my setup. 1979 Mini, originally automatic, I did a conversion to A+ manual engine.
Same issues as some read over here, starter just clicking.
I installed a remote switch to shortcut the ignition switch, basically it's only connecting the two poles of the solenoid, the one build on the starter motor.

Now I want a proper installation and want to reuse the inertia solenoid (still built in the car). I read about how to use it as a heavy duty relay.

My only question is if somebody knows the thread of the big copper poles on the inertia solenoid? I am missing one nut and can't find the proper size. I tried M8, I tried 5/16 UNC, I tried screwing by hand some thread cutters on the one original nut I have, I tried to measure the pole thread with a thread brush, but I can't find the right size...

The Lucas solenoid was originally 5/16 BSF.

Easily available:-

https://www.spalding...lock-half-nuts/

Modern replacements are m8.

Edited by mad4classics, 05 June 2023 - 04:59 PM.

[Gilles1000]

Ok, that explains a lot !!

Thanks for the quick answer !