7 replies to this topic

[gould1990]

Hey everyone i need a hand here. i got a 1976 mini 1000 and need to bring the bite point of the clutch up (it right down at the floor) i no need to adjust the 2 nuts by the gear box but is there a set measurement or is it just trial and error...

 

how do i go about it? 

Edited by gould1990, 11 May 2014 - 09:06 AM.

[Dusky]

6.5MM between the nut and the flywheel wok

[gould1990]

Is that 6.5 from the casing and is that the front nut or the nut farest from the Casing

[gould1990]

Scrap that casing so 6.5 to the nut on the casing? From the flywheel wok

[Dan]

That is the setting for a Verto clutch, which were only fitted as standard from 1982, and is the setting position for when a brand new clutch plate has been fitted. You can't adjust up a Verto clutch in service as they are self adjusting until worn out.

You need to know what type of clutch is fitted, it will probably be pre-Verto type (look in the FAQ for help identifying it). For these you back off the two nuts fully, pump the clutch a few times and then hold the clutch on firmly with a long bar and wind the nut in until it touches the casing. Then release the clutch and wind the nut in one more flat and apply the locknut. You need to adjust the return stop too by pulling the lever out a little until you feel the clutch plunger touch the clutch but without pushing any force into the spring, and set 0.020" clearance at that point. You need 4 to 6 hands for this! In all probability though what you really need is a new clutch.

[Stevie W]

Hi,

Adjust your clutch as follows:

Undo the two large "throw out" nuts at the centre of the clutch housing...also known as the "wok".

Remove the clutch arm return spring that sits between the clutch arm and slave cylinder.

Slacken the small bolt the the clutch arm sits against, then pull the clutch arm away from the slave cylinder as far as possible.
Whilst holding the arm, spin the small bolt so the head of it sits against the arm.
Give your arm a rest for a while, whilst you fetch your feeler gauges, now with the arm pulled fully out again, adjust the bolt head until there's a 0.020" gap between the bolt head and the clutch arm.
Lock the nut against the clutch cover, then recheck and if necessary, readjust this gap.
This sets the point at which the clutch arm begins to move when you press down the clutch pedal.

Next have an assistant pump the clutch pedal a few times, then hold it hard down to the floor. With the pedal right down and the clutch arm fully out, spin the inner central nut up against the clutch cover. Have your assistant release the clutch pedal then turn the inner central nut one more flat clockwise. Lock the outer central nut against the inner.
This sets the "throw out" of your clutch and prevents excessive force being placed on the crankshaft thrust bearings.

Finally, refit the clutch return spring and see how your clutch feels then.

All the above assumes there are no hydraulic or mechanical issues or wear with your clutch!!

Hope this helps, cheers, Steve.

EDIT: beating to it by Dan!

Edited by Stevie W, 11 May 2014 - 02:59 PM.

[KernowCooper]

The biting low down on the pedal throw could indicate a master cylinder/slave problem if the above setup is performed and it is still the same. Check for fluid leaks from both cylinders

[gould1990]

sound more complex than i thought it would be. still not a major job