20 replies to this topic

[maccers]

I had to get one done on a past mini that had previously fitted poly mounts, and they cracked at both sides. I had a place weld plates in place, they did them from the inside. I have solid mounts all round on my current mini, no cracks, no real increase in noise but huge increase in steering response.

[tiger99]

I don't recall any significant increase in noise either, so I can't understand why the modification was introduced. But the improvement in steering response is utterly beyond dispute, even by the very worst forum trolls (not that we have many of these here, and long may that continue!).

[Carlos W]

I don't understand. The mount should still go on, because none of the nuts and bolts would be within the area of the mount itself.

If I had used nuts and bolts instead of plug welds I wouldn't be able to get the bracket on because the nuts and bolts would be in the way, and it was advice on here I followed.

Seam weld around the edge, plug welds in the middle of the reinforcement plate.

[CBJ805T]

I'm interested in doing the same job, has anyone got any pictures of their reinforcement plates?

[Cooperman]

Has anyone designed sand made a replacement solid rear mount which takes the sub-frame loads into the shell at the same points as a Mk.1. That would completely solve the problems of fatigue cracking of the toe-board.

The flat plate on the solid mounts for the later frame could be lengthened and taken down to the level of the floor base, then turned and run horizontally for a couple of inches. It could then have a couple of extra bolts where the Mk.1 bolts go through the floor/bulkhead. That would really distribute the loads into the shell much better.

[Captain Mainwaring]

BOLTING IS NOT POSSIBLE!! Id expect the car to fail the MOT with bolted floor reinforcement!

 

 

I'd prefer to weld it (in fact I did). It just seemed like a proper job.