12 replies to this topic

[minilink]

Hi, 

 

My newly acquired 71 morris mini 1000 was driving great all week. Then couple days ago i checked the oil dip stick and noticed the oil level was lower than the minimum marker. So I stopped driving the car. Today, Picked up some same viscosity oil the previous owner used 20-50 (california weather). I added a quart so the level is close to max but not over the top, started the car and it idles normal.

 

Then as i started driving, the car started sputtering and bogging. If I lightly hold the throttle, the car starts to move. But once i press down the gas pedal a bit more, the sputtering gets loud and intense and the car stops accelerating. After about 5 mins of this, the car stalls. Even if i press on the gas, i couldn't keep the car to stay on. After that when i crank the starter, it just keeps cranking but the car doesn't turn over.

 

Am i missing something? I tried to search but couldn't find any direct info. please help. ~

 

- Link

[Gadgets]

OOh that doesnt sound nice, you poured the oil in where exactly?  This is a manual gear shifter version not automatic transmission?

Edited by Gadgets, 30 March 2014 - 06:57 AM.

[69k1100]

When did you check the oil? If it was soon after you switched the car off you probably overfilled the sump.

It takes at least 5 minutes for the oil to migrate back into the sump, checking the oil after it is newly turned off will give a false low reading.

Leave the car for half an hour on level ground and re-check the oil level, you may find it is over full, this will send oil up the breather tubes, into the inlet subsequently fouling the plugs.

Also pull the plugs and see if they are oily.

Edited by 69k1100, 30 March 2014 - 08:42 AM.

[minilink]

Thanks for the replies.

 

Gadgets: I poured the oil from removing the big black cap on the valve cover. This is a manual gear shift.

 

69k1100: Before I poured the oil, the engine was cold, sat for couple days. The oil level was about 0.5 cm lower than the minimum marker. I added about 1.3 qts of oil. Although it's true i probably didn't wait long enough for the oil to settle. I only waited about 2 minutes, i checked the dip stick and it showed at maximum. So I went and started the car.

 

I will check the dip stick again tomorrow morning and pull out the plugs. I have new plugs gap'd and ready.

 

Thank you!

[CityEPete]

Loads of ignition wiring going on down there remember, easy to have knocked a ht lead or a connection on the coil etc?

[OfMini&Men]

Have you checked the fuild in the carb top?

[Carlos W]

Knocked a lead off, or the vacuum advance??

[myredmini]

As Carlos says, if you have knocked the vac advance off it should idle fine because there is no vacuum advance at idle, soon as you drive the timing cannot advance meaning it wont drive properly. It may well not be that but give it a check. 

If you are unsure what this is, there should be a thin pipe coming from your inlet manifold, over the engine to the front of the engine and goes into the distributor. 

[midridge2]

Putting the oil in may not be connected, check the points gap.

[dklawson]

+1 on Midridge2's comments.  The oil issue is likely to be a red herring unrelated to the running problem.  However, before discounting it, do check the oil level again and make sure it is not overly full.

 

You said the car is relatively new to you.  Don't assume the previous owner kept it in top tune.  Assume that the car needs a basic tune up.  Do you have a manual for the car?  If not, buy one.  While you can get a lot of the information online, there is a lot to be said for being able to read through the steps multiple times while looking at exploded diagrams and pictures.

 

That said, always start with the ignition system and do not jump right into tweaking the carb.  

Adjust the valves (cold).

Inspect the distributor cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and plugs.  Replaced any cracked or carbon tracked components.  When removing plug wires check them ONE AT A TIME so you do not put them back in the wrong order or location.

From the factory your car will have points in the distributor.  Clean, dress, re-install and gap the points to the correct clearance.  Make sure the cam that opens and closes the points is lubricated (45D distributors have a felt wick that must be oiled, earlier 25D distributors require a smear of grease on the cam lobes that open the points).  Replace the condenser... just because.

DO NOT assume this is the coil.  People love to say they had a coil fail and replacing it made everything better.  What they often admit later is that they also replaced the points, condenser, cap, rotor... at the same time... so you don't know which component failed.

Regardless, go through these ignition areas first.  However, you CAN and should check the carb dashpot oil as OfMini&Men suggested.  Unscrew the cap on top of the carb and pull out the brass rod assembly.  Looking down in the carb you will see a center metal tube.  Pour 20W oil into that inner tube until the oil is about 1/4" below the top of the tube.  You do not need to go buy a quart of 20W oil for this tiny bit.  If you are in a hurry, the 20W50 you are running in the engine will be OK.  If you want to run 20W, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get a small bottle of 3-in-1 oil (the blue bottle is 20W, the red bottle is 30W).  The 3-in-1 bottle is small enough to carry in the car at all times should you need dashpot oil in the future.

 

Anyway, start by going through an ignition tune up.  If you are unsure how to dress and gap the points in the distributor, post back and we'll walk you through it. 

[minilink]

Thank you dklawson for the detail troubleshooting tips.  

 

I checked my oil dip stick today, it was just barely below max mark. That was ok. So I took out all the spark plugs and they are all white with signs of running lean and some look like with oil stains around the threads. So i swapped them out for new ones and checked the gap. Then I spoon fed the dashpot with a teaspoon of oil. Try to start it up and still no start. Just keep cranking.  

 

Before I gave up, i took another round of overall assessment and turns out CityEPete was right.  The positive lead on the coil slipped out and was disconnected. Surely after i plugged it back, the car started right up.

 

I have downloaded and started studying the mini 76-89 FSM and Haynes service manual for 1959-1969 and 1969-2001.  Thank you guys for all your help. Much appreciated

 

Cheers,

- Link

[dklawson]

I am glad you found the problem relatively quickly.  Thanks for posting what you found wrong!  Concluding posts like yours are very helpful to others who search the forum for similar problems.

[CityEPete]

Thank you dklawson for the detail troubleshooting tips.  

 

I checked my oil dip stick today, it was just barely below max mark. That was ok. So I took out all the spark plugs and they are all white with signs of running lean and some look like with oil stains around the threads. So i swapped them out for new ones and checked the gap. Then I spoon fed the dashpot with a teaspoon of oil. Try to start it up and still no start. Just keep cranking.  

 

Before I gave up, i took another round of overall assessment and turns out CityEPete was right.  The positive lead on the coil slipped out and was disconnected. Surely after i plugged it back, the car started right up.

 

I have downloaded and started studying the mini 76-89 FSM and Haynes service manual for 1959-1969 and 1969-2001.  Thank you guys for all your help. Much appreciated

 

Cheers,

- Link

Only just spotted this, I will give myself a pat on the back, Lol. Glad its sorted