14 replies to this topic

[rodandtom]

Hi,

 

Why does everyone seem to go with a manual choke? Surely if you change away from an SU Carb then there are lots of types where the auto choke is ok? I've fitted one to a Talbot years ago - changed it from manual to Auto on a Weber and it was fine.

 

Anyone done it reliably on a mini and what would suit a 1275?

 

Ta

 

Rod

 

[Gremlin]

Why would you go to all the hassle, I only use the choke until it's either up to temperature or until I'm on a bit of road where I know I'm not going to be stopping. I've done many things purely for an engineering challenge bit it's only cost me a few quid for each or I wouldn't of done it, you'd have to get it have set up once fitted and that will cost a fair bit alone

[rodandtom]

I don't know, Manual choke always seems to be a problem. Lots of stories about people using pegs to hold them out. Auto choke seems easier in that once its done then it takes care of itself. The threads I read on here seemed to have people saying they were lots of trouble so I wondered why. Is it a mini thing?

 

Rod

[HarrysMini]

The manual choke is part of the Classic Mini's charm, it is also it's built in security device!

 

I can't really see the point in ditching it, much hassle for very little gain.

 

My personal opinion, I suppose it's a bit like power steering, if you're going to turn your car into a modern car, get a modern car

[Alex_B]

Chokes are not an issue really, yes the cables fail but using a peg isnt exactly a big issue? most people adjust the choke so it allows the peg to stay on the cable without it engaging the choke mech on the carb and then it just holds the cable out when its required :) 

[jelboy89]

When I was in the classic ford stage of my life everyone wanted to get rid of auto choke and go manual. Why would you want auto choke, don't think I've ever used it, little bit of throttle while starting and wait a minute at max for it to be drivable

Jez

[AVV IT]

In my experience auto chokes were awful things. As I remember it, on the last of the carbed models most manufacturers seemed to ditch auto chokes in preference of the more reliable manual version. Back in the day I owned both an early nineties Escort and a Cavalier, and they were both fitted with manual chokes as opposed to the auto version.

[KernowCooper]

Auto chokes were ok when new but lots gave problems like revving up before the oil pressure came up over fueling thats why Alexander made so much money in the 70s/80s on conversions back to manual. Give me a manual every day, and its so simple to rectify a worn cable.

[The Matt]

Look into KIF44 carbs.

I believe they're essentially a HIF44, but with either a water-based automatic choke or I think some had an electronic choke fitted. If you really want an automatic choke then that may be a route worth exploring?

[cal844]

Auto chokes over fuel the car way too much!! At least with manual choke it can be altered to suit the engine temp and load

[Dan]

I think you'd want an HIF E rather than a KIF. SU used to make a variety of things as auto chokes, they just never got put on Minis because of cost and corporate ideas about the market the Mini was aimed at.

[The Matt]

Aaah. Is the HIF E the Maestro one or Rover 100?

[Dan]

  KIFs were made for the K series, so that's the one for the Rover 100.  I'm not sure it will mount to a regular flange.  The Maestro and Montego had HIFs and HIF Es.  The HIF E needs a few sensors, an ECU and some extra parts fitted to the carb itself to make it work.  It's quite bulky.  Other SU auto chokes are things like the AED and the Thermo, the latter I think was only ever used on Jaguars.  But they are all bulky and expensive and you can't get much in the way of parts for them.  They also only work with specific carbs that are designed for them.

 

  It's not fair to say auto choke make the engine excessively rich.  The problem is that most use a bimetallic element of some sort to sense engine temperature from the coolant, and they do nothing to sense air temperature or fuel temperature / density.  Exactly where in the system they get coolant from to sense the temperature has a big impact on how they work and some are better than others.  Many are OK when they are new but as they age they wear out.  Bimetallic elements are supposed to be replaced every couple of years, like the air intake flap in Minis, but nobody ever does it and then they complain it doesn't work.  The HIF E being electronic instead of thermally driven is probably more reliable for longer.

Edited by Dan, 17 March 2014 - 08:57 AM.

[finch661]

i was tempted to ditch the choke return springs on the carb and link up a servo (RC servo) to the choke with a cable, and put a small potentiometer in the dash to control the choke. not exactly auto choke, but something different!

[Ethel]

I've sort of done that, but my intention is to control the servo with a temperature sensor. I'm hoping it will give the advantage of manual override, which was always the biggest pain with the hif E and its huge stepper motor.

If your only complaint is the cable, just replace it with something better - like a Bowden cable.