31 replies to this topic

[HarrysMini]

I have an MG Metro block that I am rebuilding, so I obviously want to replace the oil gallery plugs. 

 

How is the best way to do this?

 

 

Thanks 

[MrBounce]

Have just done mine. As you'll be cleaning out your oil galleries (if you're not doing this, you may as well not build an engine in the first place), you need to get them out. This will be difficult and certainly messy. I found that making a hole in them and using a screwdriver to lever them against the block is enough to get them moving. Once they are all out you will need to make sure that the oil galleries are clean and free of deposits and swarf. I used the tried and tested method of rag taped round a wire coat hanger I'd straightened out. This was what came out after cleaning:

 

 

You then need to give it blast through with an airline. Another option if you don't have a compressor is to use one of those compressed air aerosols that IT guys use for computers. Worked for me. There's always the option of giving it to an engineering shop to give it a proper chemical wash once the plugs are out but it will cost you.

 

When you are happy it's clean, clean it again then refit the plugs with a smear of gasket sealant - remember they will taking the full oil pressure so you don't want them to pop out.

[HarrysMini]

Thanks. The thing is, the block has already actually been machined and had a chemical clean. I removed the core plugs, but not the gallery plugs before hand. 

[Cooperman]

I normally use a 1/2" drill to get the old gallery plugs out, then thoroughly clean the galleries and re-fit using a bit of Loctite Bearing Seal.

[HarrysMini]

Is it actually essential that they are replaced? I don't really want to go drilling into the block when it has already been machined and acid cleaned.

[Gr4h4m]

yep you must clean out the oil galleries. In fact it would have been better to remove them before the acid clean

[Dusky]

didnt do that on my rebuild idk how hard it is with engine in situ

[Gr4h4m]

You can't and ensure you don't get swaf all over the place inside the engine.

Your need to beable to eat your dinner off every surface... Swaf gets all per the place, ESP after machining.

[Cooperman]

It is VITAL to remove the oil gallery plugs, thoroughly clean out the oil galleries to make sure there is no DGS anywhere in the block, then fit new plugs using a Loctite sealant.

There is no point in rebuilding an engine if, after assembly, the galleries are full of old muck (was going to use another term  ).

[HarrysMini]

So if I drill them all out, how is the best way to go about cleaning the galleries to ensure there is no metal and clean out any remaining swarf?

 

Also, what is the bolt on the back of the engine? I removed it and more gritty sludge came out.

[Cooperman]

Best way to clean out the galleries is to get a wire coat hanger and make a straight length from it. Twist one end over and cut some square pieces of old towelling material.

Turn the block on its end and wash the oil galleries out with paraffin.

Then use the wire to pull the pieces of towelling through after dipping them in brake & clutch cleaner. Repeat until the towelling is coming through absolutely clean.

Then flush with paraffin and blow through with a high pressure air line and finally wash with Brake & clutch cleaner to remove all oil so that the new plugs will seal using Loctite Bearing Seal.

[The Principal]

When you say 'Bolt' do you mean the drain blank? - http://www.minispare...px|Back to shop

 

If so early cars had a drain tap fitted, the 'Bolt' just blocks that off

[HarrysMini]

That's it. So, it has nothing to do with the oil galleries or anything then? Just water?

 

I think there used to be one on the front, but it looks like the head has sheared off.

[mini13]

when I clean the galleries in a block, I get a good coating of diesel down all the galleries and let it soak in overnight to soften any crap,

 

I then bush the galleries out with somthing like the ones below, its also worth sticking the brush in a drill  to give them a damn good brushing, remember rinse and repeat.... dont be adraid to flush with water degreaser and a hose, once the main crap is out I swap to Tig welding rods (as I usually have these handy) but a coat hanger is a good call and clean out with cloth swatches as descrbed with others, I also like to use thinners for the final clean with swatches.

 

remember to get all the galleries you can....

 

horizontal one across the front of the frint of the block,

Oil relief valve hole

oil relief valve drain to the sump.

oil pump holes,

oil pickup hole from sump,

oill pressure switch hole

both holes behind the filter housing

banjo bolt hole.

all the holes to & from the main bearings

the hole from the headgasket face to no1 cam bearing

all the holes on the cranks shaft.

 

I also pull the rear gallery plugs for the drilling that joins the top of the cam follower holes and do this along with all the pushrod holes and drain holes for that gallery, and I do all the bolt holes like this too, suprising how much you can get out of some of these.

 

The only bit I dont bother with is pulling the small plugs that let oil out from where the oil relief valve spring sits

 

 

http://www.ebay.co.u...&ff14=95&ff19=0

[tiger99]

Doesel has certain properties that paraffin does not, and vice versa. Both tend to help in removing oily crud, but paraffin tends to leave a film of rust on iron or steel surfaces, while diesel does not. Maybe a mixture of both would work best? Maybe even add some E10 petrol? Then you should get even better cleaning potential.