13 replies to this topic

[lewBlew]

My n/s/f lower ball joint rubber dust cover has split and is pretty much hanging off. How bad is this and how difficult to fix? I know you can buy them separately from Mini Spares.

 

Thanks

[Tamworthbay]

It's an mot fail but is easy to fix. Just get a new one, split the ball joint from the hub and swap. I would check the play on the balljoint at the same time as it would be a good time to change it if its getting worn.

[robminibcy]

as above. I'd get it done asap because with grit everywhere and dirty water it will ruin the grease and damage the joint very quickly

[cradley-heathen]

its a doddle to change,

undo the nut on the top,

split the ball joint from the arm with a splitter,

pop the cover on,

stuff the pin back in the arm,

do the nut back up!

[lewBlew]

OK thanks everyone!

[lewBlew]

Just quick question before I do this. Is it possible to remove the ball joint (lower one) without taking the wheel off? Or is there simply not enough room? I'm asking this before I try and can't be bothered to look at the car in the car park...

[cal844]

you'll need to remove the wheel... make sure the car is well supported!!

[lewBlew]

OK cheers I thought as much. Yes, axle stands under the front subframe, never not use them!

 

Just the wheel to remove? Don't fancy taking the hub, brakes etc off really.

[Icey]

This is just my personal opinion - if the cover is off, the joint is most likely contaminated. Pop the wheel off, take the ball joint apart and give it a good clean. Then while the joint is apart pump some fresh grease through the nipple. Reassemble and adjust as usual.

 

Or, if you don't want to waste much effort, just replace the whole joint. :)

[lewBlew]

Thanks. Ball joints were replaced just over a year ago so will probably not do it again. Nipple is currently only accepting grease when it feels like it so I'm going to replace it!

 

Will I have to take the entire balljoint off to do all this or can I do it in situ, and just pop it?

 

Also, the manual gives these torque settings:

 

Swivel hub ball joint socket 70 to 80lbft / 9.6 to 11.1 kgm - this is the ball joint socket which I am hoping not to have to take out above? But if I do it apparently needs a deep 1.5" socket?

Swivel hub ball joint to suspension arms 35 to 40lbft / 4.8 to 5.5 kgm - this is the nut I have to remove/loosen to pop the joint is it?

[tiger99]

If you are taking the ball joint apart, you really do need the correct tools, probably including a scikssor type splitter to seperate the ball joint from the arm, and you must also check, after torquing it up, that the joint is free to move to all extremes of its travel, with "no nip" to 3 thou of end float (aim for 1 to 2 thou). If it is a lower joint, you will need to torque it up without the spring and feel for correct operation, then take it apart, fit the spring, and torque up again to exactly the same setting.

 

The reason that it needs to be checked is that it may have not been done to the same torque last time, and if it becomes tighter, there is a very real danger of an accident when the ball pin snaps, as it has been known to do after a while. The ball joints are very safe, but only when assembled exactly as per the Rover manual.

 

You will also need a new locktab, and possibly shims, but as you have probably had to buy a complete kit to get the rubber bit, you should have these.

[lewBlew]

If you are taking the ball joint apart, you really do need the correct tools, probably including a scikssor type splitter to seperate the ball joint from the arm, and you must also check, after torquing it up, that the joint is free to move to all extremes of its travel, with "no nip" to 3 thou of end float (aim for 1 to 2 thou). If it is a lower joint, you will need to torque it up without the spring and feel for correct operation, then take it apart, fit the spring, and torque up again to exactly the same setting.

 

The reason that it needs to be checked is that it may have not been done to the same torque last time, and if it becomes tighter, there is a very real danger of an accident when the ball pin snaps, as it has been known to do after a while. The ball joints are very safe, but only when assembled exactly as per the Rover manual.

 

You will also need a new locktab, and possibly shims, but as you have probably had to buy a complete kit to get the rubber bit, you should have these.

 

Thanks for the info. I have one of these on order: http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

 

I take it you need a tool to prise the joint from the arm, but when putting it back on it just goes on?

 

I also wanted to check whether this operation can be done with the hub still on the car, since I am basically just replacing the dust cover.

 

And are the torque settings I described above correct?

 

[tiger99]

Yes, your tool should be ok, if well made, and Draper is generally a reputable brand.When using one of these, I leave the nut on the ball joint threaded end, but loosened 4 or 5 turns, and tighten the tool up, then give it one good whack, over the end of the ball joint, with a hammer, then tighten again, whack again, and soon it is loose. It goes back just by pushing into the tapered hole and tightening up, but as the taper will try to rotate in the hole it is customary to use a jack, or whatever is available, to push the two parts together. Once there is some pressure between tapered pin and hole, it will not spin round and the nut can be torqued up.

 

And yes, it can all usually be done on the car.

 

Your torques seem to be correct.

[lewBlew]

Yes, your tool should be ok, if well made, and Draper is generally a reputable brand.When using one of these, I leave the nut on the ball joint threaded end, but loosened 4 or 5 turns, and tighten the tool up, then give it one good whack, over the end of the ball joint, with a hammer, then tighten again, whack again, and soon it is loose. It goes back just by pushing into the tapered hole and tightening up, but as the taper will try to rotate in the hole it is customary to use a jack, or whatever is available, to push the two parts together. Once there is some pressure between tapered pin and hole, it will not spin round and the nut can be torqued up.

 

And yes, it can all usually be done on the car.

 

Your torques seem to be correct.

 

Cheers for your help!