23 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Hi;

 

What would you guys recommend for refurbishing a Rear Subframe, on a budget.

 

I have done some research and will remove all the underseal paint with a Heat Gun and cleaned up with a wire brush (Wire Knot).

 

I have read that the joins should be Seam Welded?

 

Then Rust Treated, prepped and painted.

 

For rust treating I've used Hammerite Kurust but for prepping and painting what do you recommend (remembering I'm on a budget.)

   

Marine Clean

Por 15

What Top Coat?

 

or 

 

Shotblast and Powder Coat?

 

Thanks

 

[HarrysMini]

This is what I've done:

 

Stripped subframe

Seam welded

Galvanised

POR 15

 

Should last forever, you could skip the galvanising stage and just use POR15 and it will last MUCH longer than powder coating or Hammerite which will chip and peel off fairly quickly. POR 15 is much harder and can withstand more stone chips.

[philip663]

Im doing my rear subby over summer and my friend is going to powdercoat it for me. He can get hold of some zinc powder primer or something. Shouldnt be to expensive and much quicker and easier than using a brush! 

[sonikk4]

You can get it galvanised and powder coated. That would be my option and something i'm going to do this year on my replacement clubby subframes.

 

Seriously seam welded though.

[JonnyAlpha]

Thanks guys;

 

I'll investigate the various options above based on location and budget, my gut reaction is to strip, clean, seam weld and POR 15.

I read somewhere in these forums that POR15 fades? If so what should it be coated with to prevent this?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 03 February 2014 - 08:13 PM.

[HarrysMini]

POR 15 definitely doesn't fade. Just WaxOyl over the top of it and it'll be fine.

[Tamworthbay]

POR 15 definitely doesn't fade. Just WaxOyl over the top of it and it'll be fine.

Some colours do! But on a subframe it wouldn't matter anyway.

[HarrysMini]

 

POR 15 definitely doesn't fade. Just WaxOyl over the top of it and it'll be fine.

Some colours do! But on a subframe it wouldn't matter anyway.

 

Actually it might if you painted it on, say, the roof, I was just talking about subframes.

[Tamworthbay]

POR 15 definitely doesn't fade. Just WaxOyl over the top of it and it'll be fine.

Some colours do! But on a subframe it wouldn't matter anyway.

Actually it might if you painted it on, say, the roof, I was just talking about subframes.

Even underneath it will if you use red. I used it on the floor of a vw camper, I was amazed that it faded after only a year even though there could not possibly have been any light on it. Blue also fades but not as bad. I haven't used black but wouldn't think that would fade. Can't fault it for rust prevention though.

[1984mini25]

I got 7 years out of a non-genuine subframe used daily in all weathers just by giving it a good rub down and a few coats of red oxide and hammerite. For it's new replacement last year I did the same with the add step of poring a warm mix of candle wax, light oil and sprits into every internal nook and cranny.

[Craig89]

When I recently did mine I wire cupped it to bare metal, couple of coats of red oxide then a couple of coats of black machine enamel paint. In hindsight I should have seam welded it to stop any water getting in the cracks, live and learn

[Daz1968]

I am planning on wire brushing mine, followed by jenolite rust converter then etch primer and a couple of coats of 2k black gloss, car won't be used in winter so should last ok

[Simont]

im getting both of mine stripped and powdercoated for like 80,

Edited by Simont, 17 March 2014 - 12:09 AM.

[tiger99]

I would not bother with Jenolite. Unless all rust is mechanically removed, it will be back within a year. Been there, all to often.

 

The reason I would not even attempt to wire brush or use any other form of abrasive on the subframe is that there are so many inaccessible areas, where rust will already be lurking. Chemical processes involving stripping, derusting and E-coating will work, but galvanising is probably not going to be any more expensive and is at least 10 times better. It is good to use a primer for zinc (not a zinc based primer for bare steel), ane a few coats of your favourite epoxy primer, stonechip and top coat over the zinc, for appearance and to preserve it for even longer, but even bare galvanising will last a very long time.

 

The galvanising process involves an acid dip which will remove all rust, before the zinc dip.

 

Make sure that you do anything else that may be needed, such as seam welding (highly recommended) first. And, don't forget to have the "camber" brackets galvanised too. They are quite thick and don't usually corrode seriously, but really can look ugly when they acquire a film of rust.

[JonnyAlpha]

I would not bother with Jenolite. Unless all rust is mechanically removed, it will be back within a year. Been there, all to often.

 

The reason I would not even attempt to wire brush or use any other form of abrasive on the subframe is that there are so many inaccessible areas, where rust will already be lurking. Chemical processes involving stripping, derusting and E-coating will work, but galvanising is probably not going to be any more expensive and is at least 10 times better. It is good to use a primer for zinc (not a zinc based primer for bare steel), ane a few coats of your favourite epoxy primer, stonechip and top coat over the zinc, for appearance and to preserve it for even longer, but even bare galvanising will last a very long time.

 

The galvanising process involves an acid dip which will remove all rust, before the zinc dip.

 

Make sure that you do anything else that may be needed, such as seam welding (highly recommended) first. And, don't forget to have the "camber" brackets galvanised too. They are quite thick and don't usually corrode seriously, but really can look ugly when they acquire a film of rust.

tiger99 - as always a very informative response, I was looking for a budget option but once I 'manually' cleaned up the Subframe using a heat gun, wire brush drill attachment, welded as required, hand cleaned, primed, top coated etc etc etc frankly the time, personal expense and final product may not be worth the effort to be hohnest?

 

I have just emailed a Galvanising Company to start enquiries regarding the price? Wedge Group Galvanising - looks like a National Company, I also found a small company. 

 

Depending on how much this may be a better long lasting option.