26 replies to this topic

[Big_Adam]

Okay, either I'm;

 

a) Way weaker than I thought.

b) just doing it wrong

or

c) bloke in the video uses a way rougher grit than 500.

 

Got the head off today, cleaned it up, scape with a blade tool, attacked with 500grit. I can't remove squat. Guy must use a 250, 150grit or something. As his takes all of 30seconds to do, I've been going at it for about 10mins, to get it sorta not really that clean but cleaner than just scraping it.

[Gremlin]

Wasn't the one on the video alluminium? Also how do you mean can't remove squat after 10 mins?

[Big_Adam]

Wasn't the one on the video alluminium? Also how do you mean can't remove squat after 10 mins?

 

I'm working on the exact same car. Hence my confusion about the whole thing. He just seems to go scrub scrub done.

[Gremlin]

Wasn't the one on the video alluminium? Also how do you mean can't remove squat after 10 mins?

 
I'm working on the exact same car. Hence my confusion about the whole thing. He just seems to go scrub scrub done.

Oh sorry, I'm thinking of a different thread, I thought you were just using the video as an example

[Craig89]

Post a pic of the head and block faces. Didn't realise it was a 106 you were doing thought the video was reference. I would consider getting the head skimmed as there alloy. I did a 206 head gasket (same engine) last winter, outdoors, not nice! We choose not to skim the head as it was a cheap rush job to get it back in the road. One thing I would stress tho is ensure that the threads in the head, for the head bolts are 110% clean and free from oil/water. I snapped the last bolt, livid! Stupid angle torque figures!!

[Big_Adam]

After a fair bit of scrubbing ,scrapping, swearing, etc;

 

 

[Craig89]

That looks good enough to me! Your never going to get a machine finish without, obviously, having it machined. I would just try and use a straight edge / set square across the head to ensure its not warped.

[Big_Adam]

That looks good enough to me! Your never going to get a machine finish without, obviously, having it machined. I would just try and use a straight edge / set square across the head to ensure its not warped.

 

I'll be honest, really don't want to have to get it skimmed. Its got a plastic inlet manifold, I'm so scared of snapping it from trying to remove it.

 

Check the head over with a straight edge and my thinnest feeler gauge, couldn't get it under anywhere. So now I'm just waiting on gaskets. Tommrow or sunday, I'm going to just give everything a good clean while I wait for bits, and maybe take the dang water pump off as its is FUBAR also.

[Simont]

on this topic, ive known a guy use a perfectly flat block, with oil and rubbing the machined face,
anybody know what they are called?

[Dan]

Stones or grit stones.

[lordyoung1980]

I've only ever changed a head gasket on minis and a series 2a land rover, but I used scotch pads. Also put a bit of grease around the top of the bores to catch the debris and the wipe off with degreaser. I've never had any issues doing it this way. With aluminium though I would go easy on it as very soft and you could create a tiny crater.

[Mini Mad Drakeley]

+1 for using emery cloth, as said just make sure all the holes are blocked off. in work generally its stripping down an engine and rebuilding it but a good way of getting a good finish on the head it to use a very fine paper on a DA sander or a bit of scotch pad. wouldn't use it on aluminium heads though as I think it would be too soft and of course make sure its thoroughly washed out