8 replies to this topic

[bjkered]

I have had an 1994 Mini Coopper  (SPI) for about 18 months all has been generally well for about 15 months and then a Problem 

 

It has an Imobliser under the dashboard  and I believe that after reading this forum that it is NOT coded to the ECU  as the ECU is an MNE101070.

 

Q1. I did not get a Key FOB or anything for the Imobiliser,  but was wondering can I still buy a FOB for this Imobliser. ( before I have to take off the dashboard etc to get to the UNIT for serial nos etc)

 

Q2  If Yes to the above who supplies them.

 

Q3  I assume that the little RED LED on the dashboard indicates if the imobiliser is set  ( never seen it on yet)

 

Q4 I am having problems with the car recently  and was wondering if the imboliser could be interfering with the car.  We get a situation where  after driving a relativily short while the car stops and on trying to restart the ignition appears dead.  No oil pressure light or battery light .  Wait a few mins ( and dont do anything) and all is normal and it starts up.  !!!  But can then die again. 

 

Just Massivly puzzled as to  why we seem to loose the Ignition and OIL pressure lights.  Clock Light and Radio still operate.

 

Q5 Also Ocassionally appears to loose power on a corner  or when you are slowing down but picks up after wards

 

I have for Various Reasons replaced the following

 

New Battery ( 4 Months ago)

New Alternator ( 1 week ago)

New Coil ( 1 Week ago)

New Condensor (1 Week ago)

New Relay Pack ( 1 Week ago)

New Fuel Filter ( 1 Week ago)

New HT leads ( 6 months old)

New Spark Plugs  (6 Months old)

 

Am about to check out a few of the Vacuum pipes and replace as they assume loose.  But these on reading the Posts on the Forum do not seem critical as the ECU can rervert to Default modes

 

I have invested in a code reader and there are NO error messages showing on the ECU  and all component tests Pass

 

Am also  Going to add a extra Earth Strap to Engine to some other point on the Body   ( the Earth Point on the Engine Bracket is so hard to reach  ( and  people seem to have problems with earthing in General on Mini)

 

Just Massivly puzzeled as to  why we seem to loose the Ignition and OIL pressure Lights,   Clock Light and Radio still operate

 

Many Thanks in advance

 

[FlyingScot]

Okay each issue in turn. Yes if that is the number of your ECU it isn't coded to the alarm unit.
Yes you can get a key fob coded to it assuming it is working and the issue will be to get someone who can programme the alarm unit or has the relevant equipment - see my thread about programming key fobs.
The issue with losing all power and not being able to restart is electrical something is almost certainly loose or corroded and probably both. Check your starter connections and earth points as a first off.
Not sure why you think it is the immobiliser ?
The power being lost on cornering or slowing down could indicate that movement of the vehicle is causing what ever is loose to disconnect momentarily or it could be completely unconnected and a different problem.
You have to work methodically through the connections starting with the battery cables, starter, earth points and fuse box and it would be a good idea to carry a multimeter with you so if it does cut out you can check right there and then where you have power and where not.

It goes without saying that intermittent faults are the most troublesome to diagnose!!

FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 24 January 2014 - 03:42 PM.

[bjkered]

Thanks

 

Just suspious of imboliser as working Intermittently ( or Faulty)  Clutching at straws a bit.

 

Thanks  very much  will continue to check out earth connections !!!

[xrocketengineer]

FlyingScot is right. Intermittent faults are a pain. However, you already have some info that might simplify your troubleshooting. Since you have power to the radio, that means that your ignition switch is receiving power. The question is the output. That is a white wire (white wire in/out) that goes to in line fuse 7 located under the bonnet that feeds the engine management system (pin 11 on the ECU and main relay coil on the relay box) and the oil and charge lights. I would suspect the fuse connection. Check for voltages there first with the ignition on. Also check that your reverse and brake lamps work to finish exonerating the ignition switch.

The immobiliser is supposed to only prevent cranking the engine. It is supposedly possible to bump start the car with the this type of immobiliser. 

I hope that helps,

Ivan

[bjkered]

Thanks a lot Xrocket as well.  Will check this out ASAP    Have fixed a few other ropy connections over the last couple of weeks of investigating and it is nice to have new one to follow and explain why radio etc still on .  Thanks for the Imobilse info

[minimat]

This type of immobiliser only cuts power to the starter motor and nothing else so yes it can be bumpstarted,it can also be started by taking the cover off the relay pack and pushing the relay over or putting a screwdriver between the terminals on the starter motor itself,best thing to do though is what I did and bypass the rover alarm box completely (easily done but I cant tell you on an open forum for obvious reasons) and then fit an aftermarket system like a microscan which is better anyway as it has shock sensors interior light output and you can program remotes yourself.

[roblightbody]

Are you sure your 1994 Mini actually has an immobiliser?  Mine doesn't.  It has a Rover alarm, which was the only thing available at the time mine was built (May).

[bjkered]

Thanks to all. I think problem is fixed it looks like it was a flakey fuse holder. Nothing obvious but was breaking circuit some how. Replaced and all seems to be running smoothly.

Thanks for all the info guys and xrocket for the follow the white wire advice.

[xrocketengineer]

It is great to know that you got it sorted!

Edited by xrocketengineer, 30 January 2014 - 05:44 PM.