26 replies to this topic

[lewBlew]

This is a bit of a weird one.. For about a month now I get a loud clonking noise from underneath the car if it jolts e.g. if I take my foot off the gas suddenly after accelerating hard. Sometimes also if I move off quickly. I can touch the floor with my hand while I'm driving and feel a clonk go through the floor as well as hear it.

 

Now here's the weird thing, I don't think it's the exhaust as it isn't loose. Neither does the guy who put it through its MOT yesterday think it's the exhaust!

 

Any ideas?? It didn't have any advisories which point to anything...

[myredmini]

Engine steady bushes?

[lewBlew]

Engine steady bushes?

 

Good call yes there is some play. They were last replaced in April 2012 so maybe I'll do it again and the noise will go away

[robminibcy]

almost certainly steady bushes. They don't seem to last long what ever material/ variety you go for.

[Badboytunes]

I would check all of the engine mounts too.

[sonikk4]

Sounds like it could be engine steadies but also check you front subframe rear mounts as well.

[Twincam]

Sounds like it could be engine steadies but also check you front subframe rear mounts as well.

Just about to suggest that.

I'd give all the mounts and steadies a thorough going over

[tiger99]

Or better, although you will need to weld reinforcing plates to the toeboard, get rid of them and fit a full solid mount kit. That is the biggest, cheapest handling improvement that you can make to a Mini, and returns it to more or less the state that Issigonis intended. And, it removes an ongoing maintenance requirement, as the toeboard mounts frequently break.

 

As always, I will just mention that solid and rubber mounts MUST NEVER BE MIXED, or structural cracking is inevitable. And don't fit poly mounts, their design is completely wrong and not structurally sound.

[lewBlew]

Right just bringing this up again.. the top one has a little play so I will replace the bushes. The bottom one has no visible signs of wear but the arm actually moves and makes a clicking noise at the subframe end, so guessing it's had it?

 

Can I just also check what kind of replacement I am looking for? I am not interested in polybushes but originally my car would have had these:

 

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

 

Is it 4 for the top steady and 4 for the bottom? I'm not bothered about upgrading to the later one-piece type. There are also types with metal or plastic inserts. What are these all about?

Edited by lewBlew, 26 January 2014 - 08:05 PM.

[lewBlew]

Anyone?

[cal844]

thats them, a bit steep as you will need 8 for both stabilizers

[lewBlew]

thats them, a bit steep as you will need 8 for both stabilizers

 

Worth getting the non-gen ones then? Knowing my driving they will probably be cooked in a year's time anyway*

 

*note to my insurers if they are reading - I am joking, I am a safe and careful driver. Always.

[lewBlew]

P.S. Do you need to buy the sleeves or are they not there on the early type bushes? Or can I re-use old ones?

[tiger99]

Check that the problem with the lower steady is the bushes, and not a fractured bracket in the subframe. That is not uncommon, and the way I fixed mine was to weld it up and make and fit an identical (mirror image, flange facing the other way) bracket to the other side of the bushed end of the steady so the bolt was in double shear. I did it with a crude arc welder, long before DIY MIGs were available, and that car went on to do about 150k miles after the repair.

 

I don't advise poly bushes at the engine end as there have been reports of them melting, and in any case they are somewhat too stiff for normal road use. Poly at the subframe or bulkhead end, rubber at the engine, may be better. Last time I looked, the bushes were cheaper in complete sets, and you would need two sets. They sometimes come with metal or plastic cones instead of plain spacers, and you should use whatever they are supplied with, as they should have been designed accordingly.

[lewBlew]

Check that the problem with the lower steady is the bushes, and not a fractured bracket in the subframe. That is not uncommon, and the way I fixed mine was to weld it up and make and fit an identical (mirror image, flange facing the other way) bracket to the other side of the bushed end of the steady so the bolt was in double shear. I did it with a crude arc welder, long before DIY MIGs were available, and that car went on to do about 150k miles after the repair.

 

I don't advise poly bushes at the engine end as there have been reports of them melting, and in any case they are somewhat too stiff for normal road use. Poly at the subframe or bulkhead end, rubber at the engine, may be better. Last time I looked, the bushes were cheaper in complete sets, and you would need two sets. They sometimes come with metal or plastic cones instead of plain spacers, and you should use whatever they are supplied with, as they should have been designed accordingly.

 

It only had its MOT last week, from a reputable garage. Went straight through, so hoping nothing has sheared off.