8 replies to this topic

[nryoung]

Hi there,

 

I'm having some distributor issues and I'd appreciate some advice on the best options given my current situation.

 

I'm running a standard A+ 998 (1990) which has a standard lucas 45D distributor with points.

 

Today I broke down, and with a friends help came to the conclusion that my distributor has a few issues. We got the car going again by fitting what I think is an Accuspark electronic distributor that he had lying around (he's a handy guy to know). Sadly I need to give it back to him!

 

What we discovered about my dizzy is that firstly, the advance plate wasn't rotating at all as the screw holding the points on was too long and was effectively locking the plate in position.

Once we rectified this by packing the screw out with washers and still couldn't get it running right I noticed that the plate doesn't spring back as it should. So if the vacuum advance does act, it doesn't really return to its normal position. My only theory is that if it's been locked in that position for a long time, maybe the springs have stretched.

 

I should also mention that a while ago I renewed the points, condensor, cap, rotor arm and also fitted a lucas 'gold' coil at the same time. My learned friend suspects that this uprated coil could be frying condensors, although I was told at the time of purchase that it'd be fine with my otherwise standard ignition system.

 

So... I have a distributor which isn't really in a state where I can just upgrade it with an electronic module to do away with the points as it is in need of some refurbing anyway. Also, I've looked at electronic distributors and I'm amazed by the range of prices for a complete unit (£50 to £400).

 

Do people think that my gold coil could have fried a new condensor in less than 100 miles?

Will my gold coil be up to the job in the long term if I upgrade to electronic ignition?

Are there any refurb options for my old 45D (replacement springs for starters)?

If it makes sense to throw the old distributor away, what is the best choice for someone who is prepared to pay out for something which will last, and might even want to consider allowing for future tuning options, but whose money tree is currently bearing little fruit?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice you might be able to offer.

 

Neil.

 

[robminibcy]

accuspark do distributors and can be brought with their leccy ignition kit already installed. I've brought one for an a+ engine which will soon be replacing my tired a series which has the kit fitted as well. I think the distributor was about £50.

[grumpy dad]

Hi

 

(Do people think that my gold coil could have fried a new condensor in less than 100 miles?)  NO

 

(Will my gold coil be up to the job in the long term if I upgrade to electronic ignition ) YES

 

(Are there any refurb options for my old 45D (replacement springs for starters) YES

 

try this http://www.distributordoctor.com/ every thing from springs to whole dissy

[nryoung]

Thanks to both of you.

 

Rob, I appreciate the recommendation for the Accuspark stuff. I see it for sale all over e-bay, but wasn't sure if it was quality kit or not.

 

Grumpydad, I like your directness! You've confirmed my thoughts. I hadn't previously heard of distributor doctor, have made a mental note.

 

I think I'll order an Accuspark electronic dizzy, and keep my old 45D just in case.

[KernowCooper]

You need to check and see that the Gold Lucas sports coil  if its a DLB 105 then it needs 12v supply, the year of your can means it could be a ballast Ignition, in which case it will have 9v on the coil positive, the 2 wires on the coil + will be a white/yellow and a white/pink.

 

If this is the case you need to run a new 12v feed wire to the DLB 105 Gold Coils + terminal

[tiger99]

If your "condenser" (correctly called "capacitor", but old habits persist) fries in less than 50k miles, it is defective, probably some of the Chinese junk that pollutes the entire spares market. The distributor doctor will be able to supply you with a genuine, good quality part.

[robminibcy]

If your "condenser" (correctly called "capacitor", but old habits persist) fries in less than 50k miles, it is defective, probably some of the Chinese junk that pollutes the entire spares market. The distributor doctor will be able to supply you with a genuine, good quality part.

My last condensor bofore converting to leccy ignition fried in about 1000 miles. That was from minispares and came in a genuine lucas box

[nryoung]

Thanks for all the posts. This is giving me some insight.
I failed to mention that I replaced the loom as I didn't think it'd be relevant. When I ordered the loom I chose an earlier one by mistake. My car probably should have the ballasted wire, but now doesn't.
The coil is the DLB105, the pos wire appears to only be white and the voltage at the coil is full battery voltage.
Presumably I've inadvertently made it correct again by fitting the new coil. I guess that the old coil must have been putting some pretty high voltage out without the ballast.

[dklawson]

Before spending any money on a new coil, test the old one.

 

Disconnect the low-tension wires from the coil.  Use a multimeter in resistance mode to measure across the coil's terminals.

If you measure about 3 Ohms, you have a standard coil and need "standard" wiring for it.

If you measure 1 to 2 Ohms, you have a ballast coil and it needs a ballast resistor in series with it.

 

Now reconnect the coil wires and set your multimeter to measure volts.

Remove the distributor cap and place a coin between the points to make sure they appear "closed" in the circuit.

Turn the ignition key to the run position and measure the voltage between coil (+) and an earth spot on the engine block.

If you measure 12V (battery voltage) then your coil wiring is for a "standard" coil.

If you measure 6V to 9V, your coil wiring is for a "ballast" coil.

 

Make those two measurements and let us know what you find.  It is important that you have the correct combination of parts or you will have either a weak spark or components that fail prematurely.

 

That locked breaker plate is not likely to be the cause of your running problems unless the screw also allowed the points to slip and close up.  The vacuum advance is largely there to provide part-throttle advance while cruising.  It is for fuel economy, not power.  The inability of the vacuum advance to return to rest could be from seized bearings in the breaker plate or from a failed spring in the vacuum advance canister.  Used vacuum advance canisters  are likely to be ready to fail and there are different types and ratings to choose from.  If you want to recondition your old dizzy, contact the firm that Grumpy posted the link for and they should be able to help you identify what you need. 

 

If you do undertake this rebuild, pay close attention to the 4-lobe cam that the points rub against and the bob weights under the breaker plate.  You may find that the bob weights are stuck, their springs are broken, or the 4-lobe cam is "stuck" on the main shaft.  If the 4-lobe cam is not free to move (twist) relative to the drive end of the dizzy shaft, and/or the springs and bob weights are damaged/stuck, then the centrifugal advance will not work and that will cause serious driveability problems.