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#1 gkmini

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:51 PM

I have a few questions.

How easy is it?

What will I need?

 

What's the best technique to use?

Approximately how much will it cost in colorful Canadian dollars?

This is considering I already have the gun, the compressor and a place to paint it.

 

A step by step guide would be awesome.

Cheers,

GK



#2 StewartB

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:01 PM

http://www.theminifo...p-and-re-spray/

Good guide their in the bodywork stickies



#3 gkmini

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:19 PM

Thanks Stew!

Ill check it out, I should probably read all the threads before I post but I jut like talking to you guys haha.

 



#4 Daz1968

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Posted 12 January 2014 - 11:11 PM

Only thing I can add is give it a go as I have never painted a full car before but decided to paint my car and I found it relatively easy once I had practiced a little, the hard bit is the prep before spraying bit as long as you take your time a good result can be had, I settled for 2k paint but I found loads of info for filling and flatting on YouTube

Edited by Daz1968, 12 January 2014 - 11:11 PM.


#5 Dusky

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 08:57 PM

Dont forget to sand it well. After spraying primer you should sand the primer too, but you'll read all about that.

Give it a go really, I never sprayed a car (I'm 17 years old) never learned anything about it on school, but I tried it and It worked out well enough.

Would have been better if I practised a bit first though ( didn't use right thinner amounts etc)

TO set up th espraygun it will help you.

I wish you the best of luck mate! Just remember ot concentrate and don't rush it and you'll be proud you painted it yourself :)

Small note : ALWAYS WEAR A PROPER MASK!



#6 kezzkitkat

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Posted 13 January 2014 - 10:18 PM

Well how easy is it it varies on your ability people says its really easy or that much just to slap somepaint on I do it myself well it not as simply but anybidy be able to master with practice and research there is 3 main thing of application of material speed, distance and overlap from the spraygun if master them then your getting 20% of being a good painter most of use painters have slightly different ways of applications but you will pick it up more you pratice but for more information look a the technical data sheet for the paint your using and that covers most of it eg cure time, mixing ratios and so on which can be downloaded of brown brother website
a decent compressor but dont go on how big it is just look at the cfm that yours produces to cope with constant use
A water trap, airline, respiratory either full face or a half one with goggles but filters will need changing regularly
You have a choice over spray gun either conventional or hvlp but hvlp ii would recommend as better transfer efficient I have a really cheap one of ebay that is good cost me around 25 quid but I think ita juat as good as my devilbiss's which are over 300 quid but you already have a gun so free
I would personally have a da sander and a interface pad and abrasive as you might need to recterfi problem
A heater which you could rent or if you really want to save money make a stand and use some hair dryers but this is not nesssary if your using 2k paint but I would if your using waterbase paint
There a few more things but you can do some research as my reply will become more of a essay
And price depend on how muxh your willing to spend as you can grade a paint which is really expensive you can solvent base or direct gloss or waterbase over clear
Or even celly so I would do some research on what paint your wanting to paint with
Mine has cost me around 250 with etch, high build and so on but people pay more and people pay less but that all goes on what ive said and where you get the paint from

#7 gkmini

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 03:39 AM

You guys are awesome. I'm taking notes!

#8 kezzkitkat

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 09:50 AM

Thats what this forum is all about learn learn and learn if you unsure with anything im sure members will put you right

#9 tiger99

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 10:52 AM

DO NOT USE 2K unless you have a proper air-fed mask, and can leave the spray booth, into clean, fresh air, with the mask still on, and then flush fumes from the booth before re-entering. What do you do if there is a power failure during spraying? Can you escape safely, i.e. is the air reservoir large enough to keep you breathing while you make your exit?

 

And, you have to think about where the fumes ultimately go, or end up being sued by neighbours. Get it wrong and you, olr someone else, may die horribly. Isocyanates are very toxic, even in barely perceptible amounts.

 

I don't want to discourage anyone from painting their car, just think of safety FIRST, and be very sure to cover all eventualities. It should not be ridiculously difficult to do so. And, be sure to get the preparation right, so you don't need to do it again for at least 20 years!



#10 Bungle

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 11:50 AM

you can get a finish like this will a roller and some time

 

roof_zps1c7bcf38.jpg



#11 Dusky

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 03:20 PM

Painted with 1K tractor paint,no smell etc..

#12 tiger99

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 04:01 PM

Some people consider that coach enamel such as Tekaloid is very good. I am inclined to agree, and it avoids the problems of spraying completely.

 

http://www.smithanda...ge.aspx?id=1442

 

Edit: I used a similar product, once upon a time available from Halfords, called Parson's Re-Paint, for a partial paint job and it was very successful. Tekaloid is very similar.


Edited by tiger99, 16 January 2014 - 04:05 PM.


#13 kezzkitkat

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 11:58 PM

Your right prevention is better than cure
When im painting 2k paint obviously not large amount I have a extraction than goes in to a bucket of water I did a few test and so on for fumes and seem to work for me but obviously my situation is different to you so im not saying this is a way round it for everybody and a full face was absolutely a must but now you can use a twin cartridge mask with goggles which is basic protection as they actal cant prove the isoycinates go it to eyes and ears just saying as most sata people use them which are the top people in refinishing but I prefer a full face as it better to be over protected than under

#14 PaulColeman

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 06:26 PM

I've painted a couple of cars with 2-pack and as for how difficult it is I would say VERY!! Painting is a skill which takes time to learn and perfect. It is also very hard work and a good painter earns his money. If you ever block sand and colour sand a car by hand you will find out that it's hard graft and incredibly monotonous. It's a fine line between getting the paint on too dry (which gives a sandpaper finish) and too wet (which causes runs). The speed you move the gun over the panel is a critical factor as is the distance from the panel. The way the gun is setup has to be correct to get the right size fan (it should be a hand span wide at a distance of a hand span from the panel). The gun has to be moved across the panel at a consistent distance irrespective of the shape of the panel and each stroke should overlap the previous one.

 

However, having said all of that it's incredibly satisfying and I would do it again.

 

I have a 3Hp compressor with a 150L tank and I wouldn't bother trying to use anything smaller. I do have an air fed mask but I usually use a disposable mask specifically designed for the use of 2-pack.

 

If you have any nearby neighbours then don't even consider spraying 2-pack as it's poisonous.

 

Cheers, Paul.


Edited by PaulColeman, 18 January 2014 - 06:28 PM.


#15 tiger99

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 07:08 AM

Beware of wrong, and in this case downright dangerous advice. A filter mask DOES NOT protect against isocyanates, you MUST use an air fed mask, and obviously the compressor MUST be sucking in its air supply from well outside the paint booth.






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