12 replies to this topic

[mav_64]

Hi, I'm new to this and this is my first ever post so forgive me if i a little vague or you need more information to help, but what ever advice you can give me i would really appreciate.

 

I bought my first ever mini last July in the Uk but as im living in Spain drove 1,000miles non-stop with a friend in my mighty little 1380A-series engine beast and with out any problems at all! 

 

 Since being here however i did have problems with the clutch (i thought is was the cable that had gone (because the pedal was like a spring) and he confirmed it and 're-attached it). Anyway long story short, the problem happened again and he had the car 4 weeks before he even looked at it!? But i couldn't understand...if its just a cable!?? 

 I took it back off him, took it to another recommend mechanic as the previous guy was doing nothing and giving me no answers. The new guy told me there is no cable its hydraulically operated on my car Aka he was trying to screw me over! He'd taken parts off that were not related to the clutch and actually 'unadjusted' soooo many things (probably because i took the car off him, but after 4 weeks and giving me no explanation...what would you do!? 

 The new guy, put all back together and changed one thing, the Clutch slave cylinder as he said it had a leak and then...everything seemed to be working again. However when i picked it up yesterday it now runs nice, but the accelerator or something is sticking because in gear i can take my foot off the accelerator and it will either MAINTAIN speed or actually INCREASE!?? 

 I drove back to the garage and adjusted the idle, because i said that was too high and tried again. Actually... it was the same if not slightly worse. He then said when i drove a way he could smell the oil (which i could too and i could see a dark gray smoke earlier coming form near the air inlets to the engine) and he said by the sound he thinks its the Carburettor Gasket' and that is a 'BIG' job aka ££??

 

My question is... a sticky accelerator?? Is this really a BIG Carburettor Gasket job thats going to cost £££ or am i being ripped off by another 'Spanish' mechanic!?? Other than the RPM sticking it runs smooth, goes quick and handles well. Its just the 'sticky' throttles annoying when you brake and the car wants to keep accelerating. It does however stop when i press the clutch. It rev's up for a second or so but then it does come back to idle. Sticky plates maybe?? 

 

I am a complete novice when it comes to 'fixing' cars, but i LOVE minis, i always have and i'm here to learn not get ripped off. If anyone can help me, i'd really appreciate it. 

 

Thanks for your time

 

Kris

[cal844]

what area of spain? get to merbella and see jock at english mobile mechanics (if its still there..)

[Yams]

What year is the mini and what carb is it? A sticky accelerator could be that the accelerator spring has seen better days and isn't closing the throttle. I have also seen it when the throttle cable housing is melted or damaged which means the wire cable isn't moving freely through the housing. 

 

A carburettor gasket change is not big big money, it would take someone with a basic knowledge of mechanics about 15 mins to change the carb gaskets, but the problem you have doesn't seem like a gasket problem at all. 

[cal844]

What year is the mini and what carb is it? A sticky accelerator could be that the accelerator spring has seen better days and isn't closing the throttle. I have also seen it when the throttle cable housing is melted or damaged which means the wire cable isn't moving freely through the housing. 

 

A carburettor gasket change is not big big money, it would take someone with a basic knowledge of mechanics about 15 mins to change the carb gaskets, but the problem you have doesn't seem like a gasket problem at all. 

now i have re-read the post yes it is like a return spring problem as my 998 doesnt return to idle when revved

[mav_64]

This is my car stats: G reg (1990 i think) and was originally a Mini City.  

 

To Go: An 1380cc A-series engine built by Mini Speed. Weber 45 DCOE Carb with 5" Long Weber Inlet Manifold.  AP Racing Clutch Kit.  Cast Pistons.  Racing Cam.  1.5 Full Roller Rockers.  3.1 Final Drive.  Re-Ground Nitro-Carbonised Crankshaft.  Lightened & Balanced Assembly.  New 2 Core Radiator with Electric Fan Kit.  H/C Steel Backed Oil Pump.  Silver Top Competition Fuel Pump.  5/16 Fuel Pressure Outlet Regulator.  1275 Ultimate Engine Steady.  New Maniflow Exhaust System.

 

 

To Stop: Stage 3 Brake Kit.  Vented Discs.  4 Pot Callipers

 

 

To be honest thats all i know and a lot of it i need to read up on to understand the mods and know my car! But like i said i'm new to all this. It started as a childhood dream and now i've finally got one. I have the Mini Haynes manual so i will try and look for what you guys have mentioned and maybe get a friend to help me look. What you said to me makes a lot more sense than what this mechanic suddenly came up with without even looking, but then again maybe it got lost in translation.

 

And thanks for your input guys i really appreciate your help

Edited by mav_64, 09 January 2014 - 03:52 PM.

[Mini Manannán]

Start with the simple things.  Take the throttle cable off first and check that it runs freely. 

[Yams]

Start with the throttle cable, you said you drove 1000 miles in a short amount of time, there is a chance (though small) that if a part of the throttle cable was resting or sitting near a hot spot on the engine it would have melted the cable sleeve. A similar thing happened to me when my choke cable was resting on my exhaust manifold and didn't notice, the cable melted and caused problems.

 

if you feel that you need it worked on by a mechanic, please don't go the the guy who said it was a gasket. He's either an idiot, or wants to rip you off. if you need guidance just ask on here, you'd be surprised at how quick people will get back to you with helpful information.

[daenesh]

what you can do first is to get a friend to look at the engine bay and you sit in the car and press the accelerator pedal and your friend should be able to see if the cable is getting stuck and not returning to the original position..

 

also check that there is a spring on the carb that pulls the cable back after you press it.. sometimes this spring can be stuck, too soft or not even there.. check on these things first

[mav_64]

Thank you guys so much for taking the time and for all the replies. I will go out first thing in the morning and have a look at these areas when i have more light, because all the suggestions make sense and i really don't see this as 'big' job/problem, more annoying than anything. I have common sense and i know a 'little', but in reality when it comes to 'fixing' cars....i'm a novice, i don't speak Spanish and these guys know it.

 

Thanks again, I'll let you know how it goes!

[gazza01]

Sounds to me that he may have had a final dig at you by messing with the weber settings.If the progression holes are now in play
too much it will have a lazy idle return. Get the idle circuit back to where it should be just to rule this out. Can google all
the info.Before you do that though, just turn the idle speed screw pretty much out anti-clockwise until it just about keeps
running, as low as poss. See if the idle returns better then.

[dklawson]

I am not a Weber carb guy so this is more a question than comment.  When you say they "messed with the Weber carb settings" doesn't that imply for a Weber that they had to replace jets?  I cannot imagine someone would do that without charging for it as parts would be involved.

 

I agree with everyone above about getting a friend to help you.  Watch the throttle to make sure its cable is moving freely and that the carb has a return spring for the cable.  

[gazza01]

Don't have to replace jets to screw with the settings. Idle mixture screws can be turned out of tune. Even upping the idle speed
screw will open the throttle plates and could if open enough bring the progression holes into play, which will in turn flow more
fuel/air and can lift idle and not let it return to the lower revs for a low idle speed.
May also be worthwhile making sure the throttle spindle end nut has not been nipped up too tight.

[dklawson]

Gotcha!  Thanks for explaining that.