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Spi Engine Keeps Cutting Out When Slowing Down Or At Low Revs. Help!


Best Answer rs87 , 29 June 2015 - 12:18 PM

Hi all and anyone in the future who references this.

 

So the parts actually arrived on Saturday which was a massive bonus seeing as I selected standard delivery and I fitted them yesterday.

 

I just want to say "WOW" and a big thank you to this thread and all contributors! I replaced the fuel trap and 3 of the 4 vacuum pipes (I couldn't unplug the small one from the behind the throttle body which leads to the fuel trap a few inches away) and I blew through it and it was fine so happy days. 

 

I cannot believe how such an unsuspecting set of plastic, thin, tiny pipes can turn my dream machine into a nightmare if broken!! I took some pictures for others to reference if they ever get the same problem! Seriously overjoyed and shocked! The car felt completely broken and now drives like a dream!!

 

It's rare to find a forum and a thread where the answer to a problem/fault is so conclusive when the fault appears to be so dramatic and I'm happy and thankful to verify this through my own personal experience, I hope this helps others in the future.

 

 

[attachment=174154:IMG_20150627_160654.jpg]

Underside of the air filter box with old pipes in the shot (Red pipe missing elbow which was problem #1). The yellow pipe loops round from that bottom nipple to the air temperature control valve (see pic 5). The red pipe goes onto that second nipple above the yellow one and goes round the back of the throttle body behind the throttle stop. (See pic 5 for a rough idea, as stated before on this thread, its inaccessible to take a picture of.)

 

 

[attachment=174155:IMG_20150627_160934_edit.jpg]

This is the longest vacuum pipe coming from the underside of the ECU which leads to the fuel trap.

 

 

[attachment=174156:IMG_20150627_160901.jpg]

This is where the pipe above leads to and as you should be able to see here, mine has actually snapped (problem #2). The other pipe attached to the fuel trap is the short pipe that also leads to the rear of the throttle body and is the only one I didn't replace but I pulled it from the rear elbow and blew through it, slid it back into the rear elbow and luckily it was fine so I just attached it to the new fuel trap.

 

 

[attachment=174157:IMG_20150627_165232.jpg]

If you couldn't see the elbow breakage of the longest pipe in the previous picture then that one should clear things up.

 

 

[attachment=174158:IMG_20150627_165245.jpg]

Finally, the air filter box is screwed back into place with the red and yellow pipes proudly on show. ("Proudly" because I'm an amateur DIY'er!) :genius: 

 

 

In retrospect, I only 'needed' to fit a new elbow to the fuel trap long pipe (ECU pipe) and a new elbow on the red pipe which was missing because I blew through every pipe and the fuel trap and all were very clear. However, given how insistent FlyingScot and Brivinci was on all of them being service items  :highfive:  the best and reassuring thing to do is just replace them all if not just for peace of mind.

 

Once again, thanks all and I hope this helps in the future! Problem RESOLVED!!! :w00t:  

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29 replies to this topic

#1 katsuro

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 05:04 PM

Hello Everyone

In the last two weeks the mini started to cut out/stall when I slowed down suddenly or stopped at a junction. It's a 1996 1.3 spi. I've trawled through some threads on here where people have had similar issues & inspected some of the components people have mentioned. e.g. splits in the vacuum pipes, sensors, inlet manifold etc. They all seem to be intact & undamaged. I've even taken it to a local garage where they plugged it in to try get some diagnostic readings. No fault codes appeared either. Two mechanics have looked at it & they're mystified as to what is causing it. They did both point out that it appears to be running a rich fuel mixture.

The symptoms are as follows:
- Engine stalls when you do a sudden stop or slowdown approaching a junction. It tends to start ok straight after.
- There now seems to be a strong smell of petrol when driving, even through the heater ducts when that's on.
- It sputters or makes a slight misfiring like sound at low revs even when you're in 4th gear driving at 30mph. I've noticed this happens more when the revs dip below 2000rpm.
- The idling is starting to fluctuate a bit & the engine has cut out a few times while idling.

The engine appears to run perfectly above 40 mph & doesn't sputter or misfire at all. It cruises very well on the motorway with no issues. Its when you drive in built up areas at low speeds when it becomes an issue. I have to constantly keep tapping the throttle pedal to keep the car from stalling when I stop. Any ideas what this could be & which component(s) I can look at to try solve this problem?

Edited by katsuro, 20 December 2013 - 05:08 PM.


#2 jamiewandsmurray

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 05:18 PM

flooded engine?



#3 FlyingScot

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 07:22 PM

Could be a number of things but it does sound like it is running rich. If you have the chance, get the garage to check not the errors but the running conditions especially the MAP sensor and temperature sensors (coolant and air).
Pull the plugs and check the colour to see if it is running rich.

Code readers are great but you have to know what to check and sadly even garages don't. Many cars show no stored faults but when you examine the component readings they are out of spec.

FS

#4 Fast Ivan

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 07:26 PM

could be a number of things - first thing is - is it good serviceable condition? plugs ok, air filter, valve clearances etc.



#5 katsuro

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Posted 20 December 2013 - 08:23 PM

Thanks for the prompt response. One of the mechanics did mention the MAP & temperature sensors. I'll have those carefully inspected. As for plugs & filters, that was done recently as well. I will update you all of any progress.

#6 katsuro

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 03:49 AM

UPDATE

After weeks of head scratching about this cutting out issue, trying to figure out where to begin, I finally had a breakthrough. The fact many mechanics/garages I spoke to were reluctant or unfamiliar with the Mini's SPI system to investigate the problem, made matters that much more frustrating.

Anyway, found a garage where the owner is a former Mini own. He agreed to take the car in for the day to do the diagnosis. A few hours later the car emerged running perfectly. All it was were the vacuum tubes that needed replacing! None of the sensors we were suspecting were at fault. Now it's running smoothly, no cutting out, no sputtering & best of all it's no longer guzzling fuel like these neknomination challenge people we're seeing all over social media at the moment.

Moral of the story is, always have the vaccuum tubes checked professionally first before splashing out on replacing the sensors. The tubes are the cheapest components to replace which could save you hundreds of pounds in sensors & wasted time.

#7 FlyingScot

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Posted 11 February 2014 - 11:22 AM

Glad you got it fixed but as I pointed out above its is the running conditions which need to be check with diagnostics. MAP reading will be wrong and unresponsive if vacuum pipes are damaged.
Having a code reader isn't enough they need to know what to do with it!!

FS

#8 MiniMadNox

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 04:11 PM

UPDATE

After weeks of head scratching about this cutting out issue, trying to figure out where to begin, I finally had a breakthrough. The fact many mechanics/garages I spoke to were reluctant or unfamiliar with the Mini's SPI system to investigate the problem, made matters that much more frustrating.

Anyway, found a garage where the owner is a former Mini own. He agreed to take the car in for the day to do the diagnosis. A few hours later the car emerged running perfectly. All it was were the vacuum tubes that needed replacing! None of the sensors we were suspecting were at fault. Now it's running smoothly, no cutting out, no sputtering & best of all it's no longer guzzling fuel like these neknomination challenge people we're seeing all over social media at the moment.

Moral of the story is, always have the vaccuum tubes checked professionally first before splashing out on replacing the sensors. The tubes are the cheapest components to replace which could save you hundreds of pounds in sensors & wasted time.


Hey,,

Sorry to bring up an old post, but I'm having this exact problem now and I'm looking to replace the vacuum tubes, do you know which ones that need replacing. I'm looking on minispares but not too sure. Any info would be a great help 😀.

Thanks,

James

#9 FlyingScot

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 06:08 PM

Moral of the story with SPi, replace them all and the fuel trap. They are service items and need to be treated as such, it's the best FI investment you can make and will eliminate a bunch of potential problems.
this plus the four others listed
http://minispares.co.../PHP10027.aspx?


FS

Edited by FlyingScot, 25 May 2015 - 06:09 PM.


#10 MiniMadNox

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 09:13 PM

Moral of the story with SPi, replace them all and the fuel trap. They are service items and need to be treated as such, it's the best FI investment you can make and will eliminate a bunch of potential problems.
this plus the four others listed
http://minispares.co.../PHP10027.aspx?


FS

 

Thank you just gone and purchased them! now to find out how to replace them!



#11 spiguy

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 09:21 PM

It's always the bl**dy vacuum lines.... There is really no need for any professional intervention though, you just need to fully remove them and inspect them properly - ie look for splits in the rubber ends, flattened sections of the pipe etc. Bend the ends back to look for cracks that aren't immediately obvious, cover the end and suck on them whilst flexing them to make sure they hold vacuum. Same level of scrutiny applies to the fuel trap. If they all check out fine, then reinstall them and make sure they are a good snug fit and also that they aren't being pushed on too far and getting sealed off (happens due to the right angled nature of the ends).

 

I think alot of people just look at them in situ and assume that because they are present and not splt in two, that they must be fine.



#12 MiniMadNox

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 10:41 AM

Are they hard to get to? I've don't do much mechanical work haha

#13 FlyingScot

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Posted 26 May 2015 - 02:25 PM

No just tricky to push on the ones on the inlet manorial as your doing it blind.
Bit of lubricant (personal or saliva) and push evenly.

On the fuel trap make sure you press down carefully and don't have any sideway movement ( or you could snap off the ports)

FS

#14 MiniMadNox

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 01:00 PM

Thanks, i'll do that this weekend. I've just driven it around today without going near a motorway. It seems to stall when slowing down to nealy a stop at low revs. Would this be the same problem?

 

Thanks

 

No just tricky to push on the ones on the inlet manorial as your doing it blind.
Bit of lubricant (personal or saliva) and push evenly.

On the fuel trap make sure you press down carefully and don't have any sideway movement ( or you could snap off the ports)

FS



#15 FlyingScot

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 02:07 PM

Start with the vacuum pipes, it could be the same issue...
Attached File  image.jpg   32.99K   3 downloads

FS




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