
1971 Rally Mini
#121
Posted 11 February 2014 - 07:45 PM
#122
Posted 11 February 2014 - 07:51 PM
That sounds more like it Ted !!! Cheers ;) Shouldn't cost more than a £10 !!
#123
Posted 11 February 2014 - 07:52 PM
id rather two UJs to do the moving of the rod rather than rely on there being enough slack in the sleeve, and as its a rally car id rather it be full proof and not have to worry about it fatiguing and breaking half way through a stage! but thats just me. im sure its possible to do through a bit of skill no worries.
#124
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:04 PM
Nothing wrong with Belt & Braces !! I'm sure Demon Tweeks would have suitable UJ's. Trouble is every time i go there i come out with a tiny bag and have spent a weeks wages !! ;)
#125
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:09 PM
I'm sure there is a joke in there somwhere
#126
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:11 PM
Just had a look in the DT Catalogue…………….. £68.53 EACH !!!!!!
#127
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:14 PM
Try just moving it up, providing the engine is well secure, you do have to angle the gear housing but mine has never given any trouble, but that is on my road car
#128
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:25 PM
As said, you could try it, see what happens, but I'd really rather doing something more... Robust?
#129
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:32 PM
I'm just waiting for my Sump Guard to turn up so i can weld in the retaining nuts before putting the engine in, the drill will come out soon after !! I do like the idea of welding in a hoop to clamp the gaiter to ;) Tidy !
#130
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:40 PM
Any chance you could post a couple of pictures when you get a minute Ted ?
#131
Posted 11 February 2014 - 08:45 PM
Just had a look at Race Parts web site. They are 10% cheeper than Demon Thieves ! Thanks for that Dodger ! :)
#132
Posted 11 February 2014 - 09:14 PM
#133
Posted 11 February 2014 - 09:27 PM
Can i ask why you want to put the linkage inside? Going by the setup i've got, the lowest part of that area will be the Y piece for the manifold. My Linkage sits nicely up in the tunnel and hasn't been hit once as the sump guard sits well below that level and deflects any rocks.
The most vulnerable part under a mini (assuming nothing else is hanging down) is the exhaust....and mine has taken a real hammering but still in place...a bit flattened in places though
If you intend on doing historic rallies...i'd double check you are allowed to 'modify' the linkage so much and put it in the car...you may fall foul of the scrutes.
But in my opinion...don't waste your time or money....a proper sumpguard with the extension piece will cover the linkage in standard location.
Just my 2p worth though, but also from experience.
#134
Posted 12 February 2014 - 11:00 AM
Can i ask why you want to put the linkage inside? Going by the setup i've got, the lowest part of that area will be the Y piece for the manifold. My Linkage sits nicely up in the tunnel and hasn't been hit once as the sump guard sits well below that level and deflects any rocks.
The most vulnerable part under a mini (assuming nothing else is hanging down) is the exhaust....and mine has taken a real hammering but still in place...a bit flattened in places though
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If you intend on doing historic rallies...i'd double check you are allowed to 'modify' the linkage so much and put it in the car...you may fall foul of the scrutes.
But in my opinion...don't waste your time or money....a proper sumpguard with the extension piece will cover the linkage in standard location.
Just my 2p worth though, but also from experience.
Rod ... I am with Dave with this, why do want to put it inside?
I have done forest rallies for 30 odd years and had no problem with the gear selection. Proper sumpguard, scottish pattern with extension.
#135
Posted 12 February 2014 - 07:27 PM
Hi Rob, With fitting a 2" exhaust system i thought by having the rod linkage inside It would help with keeping the system higher out of harms way. If i can keep a moving component out of the ******* with little time and money modifying surly its worth doing ??
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