10 replies to this topic

[GreenMini17]

Hopefully tomorrow i will be removing my crank pulley and fitting the KAD crank damper version that arrived earlier in the week. I have two questions.
When undoing the old pulley, i plan to have the car in gear, a helper with their foot on the brake and the rear wheels chocked. Am i safe to do this as i have straight cut gears?
What torque setting should i be doing the new pulley bolt up to (i forgot to ask KAD) ?

Thanks in advance!

[Cooperman]

The only problem with that method is that, whilst safe, if the pulley is on tightly the 'give' in the engine mountings will make things difficult.

The best and easiest way is to simply remove the starter motor - one connection and 2 bolts - and lock the starter ring in place which locks the crankshaft. Then you can give the spanner a 'clout' to free off the pulley bolt if necessary.

Obviously the grill will be off and that helps with access to the starter motor.

[GreenMini17]

The only problem with that method is that, whilst safe, if the pulley is on tightly the 'give' in the engine mountings will make things difficult.
The best and easiest way is to simply remove the starter motor - one connection and 2 bolts - and lock the starter ring in place which locks the crankshaft. Then you can give the spanner a 'clout' to free off the pulley bolt if necessary.
Obviously the grill will be off and that helps with access to the starter motor.

I have a pre-engaged starter motor, will it be as easy as you mention?
I want to try and remove it without using your method first so would you think i am ok to try it with my straight cut gears?

[GreenMini17]

Also, what torque setting should that bolt be to?

[Cooperman]

It's very difficult to undo it if it is very tight and even more difficult to torque it correctly when you are relying on the flexible engine mounts to hold the crankshaft static.

The correct way is with the starter motor removed which, with the front grill off is very easy. Just disconnect the battery in the boot, undo the power supply lead and all the other connections, noting where they go back on, then it's two 9/16" AF bolts (3/8" UNC thread) and the starter is off. I reckon it's a 10 minute job including grille removal. Much quicker than the radiator removal which also has to be done.

Go on, do it the correct way.

A bigger issue can be getting the pulley to slide off the crankshaft without damaging the timing cover. they can really be on tight and you have to lever the pulley off.

[albo]

your main answer to your question,,,, 70/80 1b

[Guess-Works.com]

Not forgetting the n/s engine mount will also need to be removed along with the bracket.... which means the engine will need to be supported on a transmission jack or trolley jack, so will wobble about like a good'un

 

Do as cooperman says, take the starter motor out and lock the flywheel. Easiest way to do this is the the special tool which are few and far between but the next best thing is an old main bearing shell, they don't fall out like screwdrivers.

[GreenMini17]

Thanks for all the answers. Ive got the pulley bolt out, that was fairly easy. Now i cannot get the pulley off. Im using two long, flat bladed screwdrivers but i have the 1275 harmonic pulley and everytime i lean against the pulley, it bends on me any suggestions? Also, getting the screw drivers at 180 degrees to each other is easier said than done. You cannot get to the back of the pulley.

[Artful Dodger]

Get some proper lever bars or a puller, makes such little work of it.

But if not, heating will help:)

[dklawson]

Do not heat the harmonic balancer as it has a layer of rubber between the rim and hub that will be damaged.  

[Artful Dodger]

If he is replacing it there isn't a problem, the rubber between delaminates anyway.