8 replies to this topic

[chicagoaustin1000]

Hello everyone.  Having gotten a great response to my question about converting a mechanical voltage regulator to electronic, I have a new question.

 

My 69 Austin mini 1000 has hydrolastic suspension and I do not have a hydrolastic pump.  I feel that I am living on borrowed time with regard to it leaking and then collapsing.  I have had one displacer repaired at a local auto a/c shop and luckily knew someone with a pump, but he has moved away so I am high and dry, so to speak.

 

Does any vendor make a conversion to rubber cones for the hydrolastic subframe?  Or even metal coil springs?

 

I look forward to replies,

 

thanks,

bob in Chicagoland.

[Cooperman]

You can simply change from hydro units to rubber spring cones.

If you remove the hydro units and look up into the front sub-frame towers you will see 3 small lugs which locate the hydro units. Either grind these away or knock them back with a hammer. The rubber spring cone will then sit into the sub-frame towers.

The mechanical geometry for the hydro top arms is slightly different, but they can still be used, ideally with Hi-Lo adjustable trumpets. You will need to modify the top arms to take the damper attachment pin.

To do the rear you will need a damper attachment pin in the radius arm each side. The handbrake cable run is different with the hydro, but it's not really an issue.

You will need a rubber cone spring compression tool (known as the Tower Tool) to do the front.

Most competition Minis from post 1964 were converted back to 'dry'.

[carbon]

In addition to the changes suggested by Cooperman, for the rear suspension you will need to find a way of attaching the shock absorber (damper), as the hydrolastic has a couple of helper springs.

 

Alternatively there are cheap hydrolastic 'top-up' pumps available which might be worth checking out.

[Cooperman]

In addition to the changes suggested by Cooperman, for the rear suspension you will need to find a way of attaching the shock absorber (damper), as the hydrolastic has a couple of helper springs.

 

Alternatively there are cheap hydrolastic 'top-up' pumps available which might be worth checking out.

 

Note I did mention:  'To do the rear you will need a damper attachment pin in the radius arm each side'.

[carbon]

Apologies Cooperman - should have known you would have covered all the angles...

[Cooperman]

Whenever I change the rear from hydro to dry I use dry arms as I have a few spare sets of those. That way the handbrake cable run and the damper mounting stub shaft are not issues.

The mod from 'wet' to 'dry' makes sense these days with hydro parts being so hard to find in good condition.

[Jeff63]

Hi
I have an Australia build 1969 mini which I am doing a full restro on, and am looking to to the same as above! Can you tell me were I get the damper attachment pins you mention from??
Thanks

[tiger99]

I would encourage you to search the various supplier's web sites for yourself, but as you may be new to the Mini scene, I will give you a link for the part you need, which is item 4 in the diagram, and is actually a complete stub axle. (Use the same site, or similar, to find other bits that you are going to need, unless you are able to acquire a proper Rover parts catalogue.) Note that you need circlip, seal and other associated bits too, also nuts and washers etc.

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=54

 

However, the stub axle is VERY tight in the radius arm, and you will need a good hydraulic press and suitable tooling to shift it. In most cases it is simpler to source a used pair of "dry" radius arms, and have them reconditioned, with new bushes, bearings and pivot pins.

[Jeff63]

Many thanks for the information, have now ordered parts and can get mini tools from local mini club