229 replies to this topic

[Ben_O]

They are where the slinging brackets were attached to at the factory.

 

They are not needed after that so can be blocked up

[alchall]

I'll be blocking these up too, along with all the drain holes as you've been busy doing, also I'll be cutting off the 4 slinging brackets in the corners as they seem to be dirt and water traps and also easily mistaken for jacking points. 

 

I wouldn't be doing this if I was after a concourse original restoration but that's not what I'm doing so staving off future rot for as long as possible is the name of the game for me.

[Cookiez]

Thanks Ben

 

Boot floor holes all done now

The less holes underneath the better in my view

 

I will have to drill two holes for petrol pipe & overflow / vent

 

 

 

 

Horrible heavy handed spot welds, this one has punctured the floor, Some of the spot welds have deformed the metal.

Leaving horrible ridges

 

 

 

Covering the Jacking point hole up.

Jack never uses the original Jack so for us serve no purpose.

 

Edited by Cookiez, 26 September 2019 - 03:16 PM.

[Cookiez]

Boot floor Done

Exhaust cut out on valance filled in

Valance holes done

 

 

 

I was looking back through some old pictures of when I was repairing Ruby

It was this time of year, 4 years ago that I was welding up the holes in the boot floor

 

Hey Ho !!

Onwards we go

 

Now to start filling the holes in the main floor

Edited by Cookiez, 26 September 2019 - 03:17 PM.

[Cookiez]

Main floor area holes all done

 

 

 

 

Left Hand steering hole blocked up

 

 

A few bits that I've removed

More bits to make Jack a key ring from

 

 

 

Question time again

Why did the floor pan change so much between Mk4 & Mk5

Are the deeper ridges used for anything?

 

Cheers

Edited by Cookiez, 26 September 2019 - 03:18 PM.

[alchall]

Looks clean without all the holes and brackets, are you intending to use p clips to hold the brake and fuel lines in place?

 

That deep wide ridge on the passenger side that cuts through the front floor pan is where the fuel lines run on the later cars if that's what you were asking about?

[Ben_O]

Won't you need the left hand steering rack hole to access the grease point on the rack?

[Cookiez]

Yea, Stainless "P" clips for the Brake & Fuel lines

 

I was hoping I could fit the ones from Ruby back on this one but it looks like I will remake them to fit the new floor. 

 

Ben, I should have fitted a right angle nipple

I had blocked the hole up on the other shell too

 

 

Just to add a note

If anyone is interested to come and have a look at the shell or pop in for a chat, Coffee & Tea are always on offer

I'm only 5 mins from Junction 28 on the M1

Edited by Cookiez, 20 October 2015 - 06:42 AM.

[alchall]

Yea, Stainless "P" clips for the Brake & Fuel lines

 

I'm thinking of doing this for the brake lines (fuel lines attach with plastic clips on the SPI so I'm going to stick with that for those), how do you fasten them? I'm thinking drill some holes in the floor and weld in small bolts then use stainless nuts to hold them in place?

[Rocket.]

Must be nice to work on a Mini with no rust

 

Looks great

[Cookiez]

Ben,

 

What grease point?

 

 

Rocket - Yes it is different. Although when drilling the spot welds out, I have missed that layer of rust to tell you that your half way through. 

 

And trying to protect against the rust is another problem.

[1984mini25]

Won't you need the left hand steering rack hole to access the grease point on the rack?

 

It's not a grease point, either. If you remove the plastic Allen plug in the rack, you can then drop the shank of a 6mm into the steering rack to centre the rack and the steering.

Edited by 1984mini25, 19 October 2015 - 09:12 PM.

[Cookiez]

I remember using that hole now to set the steering to the middle before we put the rack on

 

 

Questions again

Any ideas how to spray paint into the sill cavities ?

[alchall]

I remember using that hole now to set the steering to the middle before we put the rack on

 

 

Questions again

Any ideas how to spray paint into the sill cavities ?

 

I'm using this...

 

http://www.frost.co....ray-nozzle.html

 

It's expensive but it does seem to seep into all the gaps in the seams as it will come through the other side even where it looks very tight, might be over kill though as you're certainly not going to have any lurking rust in any box sections, I was concerned for example about the A posts either side of the windscreen.

 

Alternatively this might work on any old rattle can....

 

http://www.bilthambe...injection-lance

[Cookiez]

I used rattle cans and a long nozzle last time with Ruby

I put 2 cans of primer & 2 cans of gloss black in each sill while rotating it at different angles and letting the paint settle before rotating again

 

I also did every other hole I could find

 

 

I just wondered if there were any better way, I'm not 100% sure the rattle can has enough pressure to blast the paint into every bit

Edited by Cookiez, 26 September 2019 - 03:19 PM.