23 replies to this topic

[joyce1bro]

Well I threw the mini into a round-a-bout pretty quick and one thing led to another and BAM!! passenger side rear wheel hits the outside curb pretty hard (hard enough when jacked up the wheel wobbles) I had to drive the car another 15mins to get home so I did. Car still felt pretty tight, no vibrations, no tracking problems, couldn't feel the wheel wobble at all, no noises, and the car still drove straight.

 

Once I got it back to the garage I didn't have much time to have a good look as I had to get to the airport for a flight out. As said I jacked the car up and free spun the wheel which had a wobble, I also tried to pull and push it to see if there was play and there wasn't.

 

How it happened:

So I went into the round-a-bout pretty hot (3th gear high rpm) car felt good hit the slight left before the right to go around the island and car still felt good, as soon as I tried to pull right the understeer kicked in and I was headed towards a lamp post I quickly came off the throttle and touched the brakes the rears locked up so I came off the brakes smacked 2nd and punched the throttle to try and get the car moving in the right direction or spin the car around. The car came back around but a little to late and as stated I hit the outside "angled" curb. If I didn't hit the throttle to try and get the car moving forward Im pretty sure I would have been wrapped around the lamp post.

 

First, a combinations of factors led to the incident, Conditions - nice sunny day with sun showers making for a very slippery surface also the round-a-bout dropped off camber. Suspension - I had both front and rears set pretty hard. Braking - I felt the rear lock up when trying to pull up. Speed - I went in pretty deep before braking. Driver error - the main problem lol overconfidence.

 

I had a friend take the car to a panel beaters and they seem to think that the wheel and hub are buckled but everything else seems ok. without seeing it whats everyones opinion? would I need a new radius arm and hub, a new hub altogether or the minispares radius arm repair kit. Obviously I will need a new wheel.

 

Also this isn't a debate on if what I did was correct (driving wise) but would be interested to know what else I could have or shouldn't have done!

[Tamworthbay]

You need to strip the rear end down and see what's happened. It could be the radius arm, bearing etc but it could also be a bent subframe. Only stripping it down will confirm what's damaged.

Put it down to experience, we have all run out of talent at some point or other!

[cal844]

check the radius arm mounts on the subframeand also the heelboard mounts , i'd replace the radius arm, hub and wheel

[Ripple]

 

Also this isn't a debate on if what I did was correct (driving wise) but would be interested to know what else I could have or shouldn't have done!

 

simple... should have gone in slower

[andy159]

we.ve all done something similar but when it is damp it does seem to be more slippery than with lots of water on so just be more wary of the weather conditions also what conditions are your tyres in and also presure too as this can make a difference. the main thing is that you are ok and have racked up some more experience points

[adam_93rio]

 
Also this isn't a debate on if what I did was correct (driving wise) but would be interested to know what else I could have or shouldn't have done!

You should never brake whilst turning at speed, it causes lift off oversteer as you've found out.
Of I'm playing about and want the back end out I cause understeer then lift off to cause lift off oversteer. So you ahould never brake on a corner, especially during understeer as it tends to whip around even faster.
Basically you went in too quick then just panicked when you got a bit of understeer. obviously I didnt see you driving, But I would hazard a guess to say that you would've been a lot better off trying to find the grip at the front end by straightening up a touch and easing off

I'd strip the back end down to see what the damage it, of you hit it too hard you could've teiresias the subframe and possibly boot floor too

[MrBounce]

I slid on diesel many years ago and did a similar thing to my GT, only I hit the kerb at about 20 mph. The rear wheel was at about a 20 degree angle (positive camber!!) and on further inspection I had bent the stub axle on the radius arm. Once the arm was replaced there was no issue with the car. My advice would be to take a close look at the same place on your car.

[HarrysMini]

Just out of interest, what tyres are you using?

[olds_kool_lews]

Bloke done sane thing last night in a mk3 cavalier on wide wellers, showing off i front of his mates on a small round about, he booted it, flicked the back end round to attempt a drift (very wet roads) and ended up buckling his passenger rear wheel underneath his car as it smashed into the kerb at 30-35mph! made my night lol

As for your car, take some measurements from the drivers side, and compare them to the passenger side, as well as visually inspecting any damage, you'll soon find out whats bent

Edited by olds_kool_lews, 20 October 2013 - 03:04 PM.

[Cooperman]

You need to inspect the rear suspension as a first step and replace anything which is obviously bent or buckled.

Then you should measure the camber and rear track. The camber should be the same both sides and ideally zero to -0.5 degrees negative. The rear wheels should toe-in between 1 mm & 2 mm.

[joyce1bro]

Thanks for the comments guys. Tyres are almost new yoko's A539 175/50/13. Yeah I do know not to break on corners and to always brake before hand I spose I did panic a little but you could also argue that I was going straight ahead when I did touch the break albeit with under steer lol. I better get it sent in for an expert to have a look at as I live in another country to where the car is situated.

Edited by joyce1bro, 20 October 2013 - 10:27 PM.

[waddle]

 put a streight wheel on it,  and spin it round to see if it still wobbles,  and then check tracking , if its all good then it will probably be fine,  although personaly id rebuild it just for piece of mind as the components have clearly been stressed in a manner in witch they are not designed to be 

[Cooperman]

In slightly damp conditions your wheels/tyres will have been a disadvantage. The 175 width tyres are really too wide for a light car like a Mini and a 165 tyre will always give more grip in wet or damp conditions.

[Midas Mk1]

In slightly damp conditions your wheels/tyres will have been a disadvantage. The 175 width tyres are really too wide for a light car like a Mini and a 165 tyre will always give more grip in wet or damp conditions.

 Yeah but then you'd moan about how a 165 tyre on a 7" wheel is too much of a stretch...

[Cooperman]

 

In slightly damp conditions your wheels/tyres will have been a disadvantage. The 175 width tyres are really too wide for a light car like a Mini and a 165 tyre will always give more grip in wet or damp conditions.

 Yeah but then you'd moan about how a 165 tyre on a 7" wheel is too much of a stretch...

 

 

Of course, a 165 tyre should be on the appropriate width wheel. That goes without saying really.

 

The OP asked what else he could or should have done. The answer is to use a safer wheel/tyre combination for damp conditions, or, one might assume, if driving on over-wide tyres, to drive appropriately in wet conditions.