
Pulley Removal
#1
Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:33 PM
#2
Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:42 PM
Remove your starter motor and place (preferably) an old main shell bearing in the teeth of the flywheel. If you don't have one, a screw driver will do the job. Be careful not to lose anything in the clutch casing! Remember to knock back the lock tabs on the pulley bolt first (that one caught me out for quite a while)
#3
Posted 13 October 2013 - 08:45 PM
#4
Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:06 PM
Yep, depending on if its rusty it might tight a bit of persuasion to get off, which can be tricky if the engine is still in the car. Once its undone, either use a proper pulley remover to get the pulley off or you can use two screw drivers either side to prise it.
#5
Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:22 PM
There is an easier alternative to removing the starter motor to keep the engine from rotating.
Remove a spark plug then insert about a foot of clean rope into the spark plug hole. Turn the crank to bring the piston to the top. The piston will pinch the rope up against and into the combustion chamber. Once the rope is pinched the crank will not be able to rotate further and you can undo the bolt. (Lefty-Loosey).
#6
Posted 14 October 2013 - 07:04 AM
There is an easier alternative to removing the starter motor to keep the engine from rotating.
Remove a spark plug then insert about a foot of clean rope into the spark plug hole. Turn the crank to bring the piston to the top. The piston will pinch the rope up against and into the combustion chamber. Once the rope is pinched the crank will not be able to rotate further and you can undo the bolt. (Lefty-Loosey).
Would you have to make sure it was on the compression stroke? Or are the forces involved not big enough to bend a valve stem?
#7
Posted 14 October 2013 - 08:44 AM
There is an easier alternative to removing the starter motor to keep the engine from rotating.
Remove a spark plug then insert about a foot of clean rope into the spark plug hole. Turn the crank to bring the piston to the top. The piston will pinch the rope up against and into the combustion chamber. Once the rope is pinched the crank will not be able to rotate further and you can undo the bolt. (Lefty-Loosey).
Would you have to make sure it was on the compression stroke? Or are the forces involved not big enough to bend a valve stem?
Odd way of doing something when the proper way is rather simple...
Stick to Zik's method, and if you some how get it wrong you're unlikely to damage the flywheel
Edited by smartie93, 14 October 2013 - 08:46 AM.
#8
Posted 14 October 2013 - 08:59 AM
Not that odd really, I would imagine removing 1 sparkplug and stuffing some rope in the hole is a bit quicker than removing the starter motor.
Never tried it but would imagine compression stroke on No 1 is easiest one use...valves will be shut so no chance of bending.
I've also heard tell of this method beening used to change valve stem seals without removing the head. String stops valve dropping when you remove the collects
#9
Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:22 AM
Not that odd really, I would imagine removing 1 sparkplug and stuffing some rope in the hole is a bit quicker than removing the starter motor.
Never tried it but would imagine compression stroke on No 1 is easiest one use...valves will be shut so no chance of bending.
I've also heard tell of this method beening used to change valve stem seals without removing the head. String stops valve dropping when you remove the collects
Quicker does not mean better ;)
Surely no cylinder is easier to use than any other?
#10
Posted 14 October 2013 - 09:35 AM
no but No 1 is pretty easy see if at TDC compression stroke...timing marks lined up and rotor pointing to No 1.
actually you'd need put the string in after TDC or it wouldn't work :) pistons needs to have started dropping a bit.
It's been mentioned in other topics but don't forget knock the lock tabs back.
Another way is this :)
It works tried it on minis and Landrovers
#11
Posted 14 October 2013 - 10:41 AM
no but No 1 is pretty easy see if at TDC compression stroke...timing marks lined up and rotor pointing to No 1.
actually you'd need put the string in after TDC or it wouldn't work :) pistons needs to have started dropping a bit.
It's been mentioned in other topics but don't forget knock the lock tabs back.
Another way is this :)
It works tried it on minis and Landrovers
Now that's a fast method
#12
Posted 14 October 2013 - 10:49 AM
certainly works if you have a stubborn bolt...best to disconnect coil though don't really want engine starting while trying it.
And you need to be sure the breaker bar is resting against something solid in the direction of rotation...
#13
Posted 14 October 2013 - 11:51 PM
I have had to do that more than once, as a last resort. It works much as shown, but beware of flying breaker bars as the socket sometimes jumps off the bolt.
It is nice to see that someone other than myself has actually done it. It does not mean that the idea is clever, just that I was not the only one to have an impossibly tight bolt and was desperate enough to try it.
You can do that for a very stubborn hub nut too, in first or reverse gear, as appropriate. Do that with both wheels on the ground, before you jack the car, as otherwise the opposite wheel will just skid around. And, you need to ensure that you have something on the ground, ideally a length of steel channel, so that the breaker bar can slide as the car moves.
#14
Posted 15 October 2013 - 11:10 AM
#15
Posted 15 October 2013 - 11:38 AM
when i did it i just put it in gear and got some one to hold their foot on the brake. its not mega tight like a flywheel
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