Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Solid Mounts


  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#16 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,202 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 23 March 2019 - 10:15 AM

There is no reason why that won't work. You need to bolt the spreader plate to the bulkhead and I suggest a plate around 4" x 5". You need a spread of small bolts around the edge, or you could use pop rivets at around a 1" pitch.

#17 GraemeC

GraemeC

    Crazy About Mini's

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,421 posts
  • Location: Carnforth

Posted 23 March 2019 - 11:50 AM

Personally I would put a bend in the plate and make it lap onto the floor and secure it there too - it will be far stronger in two planes.

This is where the old solid mount subframes were better than the later ones.  I've never understood why the manufacturers of the solid bottom mounts don't make them wrap underneath and use a 3rd bolt through the floor.



#18 Cooperman

Cooperman

    Uncle Cooperman, Voted Mr TMF 2011

  • TMF+ Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 23,202 posts
  • Location: Cambs.
  • Local Club: MCR, HAMOC, Chelmsford M.C.

Posted 23 March 2019 - 12:07 PM

Personally I would put a bend in the plate and make it lap onto the floor and secure it there too - it will be far stronger in two planes.

This is where the old solid mount subframes were better than the later ones.  I've never understood why the manufacturers of the solid bottom mounts don't make them wrap underneath and use a 3rd bolt through the floor.

It would certainly be better like that. I guess they reckoned that those horrible rubber mounts would not put the same sort of loads into the bottom mount, although one might wonder where they did think the dynamic sub-frame loads would be resolved into the shell.

I think once to tower is properly and solidly bolted in the propensity for the toe-board to split is reduced and a 1.5 mm (16 SWG) thick doubler sorts the splitting problem. The plate does need to be welded, bolted or rivetted in place, but you are right, bringing it down so that there is a horizontal lip at the floor to bulkhead line is an excellent idea.

 

What is surprising is the improvement in steering response and general 'feel' after solidly mounting the sub-frame. IMHO the rubber mounting was one of the most stupid things BLMC/ARG/Rover, or whatever they were calling themselves at the time, ever did to the fantastic Mini.



#19 paulrockliffe

paulrockliffe

    Camshaft & Stage Two Head

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,763 posts
  • Location: Durham

Posted 23 March 2019 - 12:56 PM

Would you solid mount a fibreglass (Minus) shell for the same reasons, or is there more to that?

No idea how mine is mounted at the moment though.

#20 Jacko

Jacko

    Just On Tickover

  • Noobies
  • Pip
  • 7 posts

Posted 23 March 2019 - 01:17 PM

Personally I would put a bend in the plate and make it lap onto the floor and secure it there too - it will be far stronger in two planes.
This is where the old solid mount subframes were better than the later ones.  I've never understood why the manufacturers of the solid bottom mounts don't make them wrap underneath and use a 3rd bolt through the floor.


I might try that, then cut another plate for the under side of the floor and sandwich it in like what’s done with a bolt in roll cage, I really don’t want to be stripping out all my nice interior to weld them in and ruin anything lol




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users