4 replies to this topic

[min ritz ryan]

Hi all, i am thinking of either buying new doors or getting my existing ones re-skinned. Is this a hard job to do, and has anybody got a guide/ pictures on how to do so as it could save quite a bit of money, re-skinning i mean. Any help would be great, thank you

[sonikk4]

Skinning is straightforward, however the rust that generally lurks underneath is not always straightforward to repair.

 

If your door frame is totally rust free (believe me it won't be) then do this.

 

Remove the door handle and the latching mechanism.

Remove the mirror and base.

Remove the trim strips externally and internally.

Remove the glass (this is to prevent any damage to the glass)

Pull out the window rubbers.

Remove both hinges.

 

Now take a couple of measurements from the top of the window frame to the bottom of the skin. It will be pretty close to 94 cms. Earlier external hinged doors are roughly 92.5 cms give or take.

 

Now carefully run a grinder around the edge of the door skin just enough to be able to split it. Use a thin scraper and hammer to separate the skin from the frame. There will be several spot welds that need to be drilled out. They should be a couple along the bottom, one just below or above the door handle and then one where the skin sits on top of the window frame. There will be one or two on the front  as well.

 

The skin should now lift off.

 

At the top of the door frame at each side there will be a seam weld where the skin is welded to the frame, grind these flush.

 

Thoroughly check the door frame for any rust. if you find some cut it out and add fresh metal. Have a good look around the hinge mounts as these tend to crack.

 

Now onto the skin, if its a pattern skin remove the cack E coat so you can prime and paint the skin internally before fitting it. Yes you will get a bit of paint damage from the welding you will need to do but you can sort that out afterwards.

 

Offer it up to the door frame and position it so your previously taken measurements match.

 

Drill a minimum 3/16th hole in each part of the skin that sits over the window frame. Now drill at least two at the front of the skin, a couple along the bottom and the rear of the skin.

 

Now before fitting the skin you can refit the door frame back to the car with the hinge shims in place and offer the skin up. Move the skin around until it fits if you need to. Now you can either use a couple of self tappers or skin pins to hold it in place.

 

Take the skin off then the door and lay it on the bench. Remove the hinges and apply some paint to all of the flanges.

 

Now offer the skin up to the frame, pin it in place. Double check your measurements just to be sure (they may have changed if you have adjusted the skin when it was fitted back on the car, if so don't worry). Now you can plug weld the skin to the window frame and door frame. Take your time here and make sure the skin is not bowed across the top. You will need some good quality C clamps here.

 

Flip the door over and you can now fold the skin over the door flanges. I use a flat panel beating hammer and dolly for this. Work your way along carefully until all of the skin is folded over. You will need to go over it again to get it nice and flat, don't go mad and take your time. Now at the top of the skin on each side you will need to seam weld this. Once done dress the welds back.

 

At this point you are nearly done. Offer the door back up to see how it sits. You may need to give it a tweak here and there and possibly if the gaps are too big you may need to add some weld to the edges to build them up.

 

Now take it off again. Now you can seal the flanges. Inside the door where there has been some welding you can spray some more paint in to protect it. 

 

Remove the cack E coat on the outside of the skin and apply a skim of filler to all of the ground down plug welds and any other areas that need it.

 

Prime,paint and rebuild the door. Don't forget to waxoyl inside the door. 

 

Have a look at the Red One link below to see what repairs you may have to do to the door and reskinning.

[skoughi]

Fantastic detailed description sonik, when I did mine I folded the edge over with large vice grips with an off cut of 10mm plywood on the outside of the skin to spread the pinching from the vice grip, bending the lip over gradually. When I was sitting my panelbeating apprenticeship I used a hammer and dolly and always left dents in the skin, probably due to a lack of skill, but using the vice grips and some ply left hardly any marks. I also used an adhesive sealer to seal and bond the skin to the frame.

[sonikk4]

I must admit i have used wood in the past but i'm quite handy with a hammer and dolly. For a newbie then the wood method maybe a better way forward.

 

I would not use a folding tool as the ones that are generally available leave marks as well. I have got one and used it but its got a narrow face on one side which to be honest is not that good. There maybe better ones out there but if you are on a budget then maybe too expensive.

[The Principal]

As above, last time i layed the new skin and door on a old chair cushion and hammered the skin flange over with a panel beating hammer worked well

 

If your not confident give these guys a call - http://www.minidoor.co.uk/

Edited by The Principal, 26 September 2013 - 05:41 AM.