As above, the conversion itself is simple enough to do, a conversion wiring loom/harness is even available to join the later loom to the centre binnacle. http://www.minispare...|Back to search
In order for the centre binnacle to fit though, you'll also need to remove the padded top dash rail, and have an exposed/painted top dash rail instead. The padded dash rail is simple enough to remove, but beware there was a tendency for Rover to cut corners on some later models, and not actually bother painting internal panels that were to be covered by trim. (such as upper and lower dash rails). So before you do anything else, it's worth removing your padded top dash rail to see what's actually underneath there, as you may find that your top dash rail is just in primer! You'll also need a metal ashtray to fill the ashtray hole that you will expose by removing the padded dash rail. http://www.minispare...|Back to search
Anther issue is the calibration of the speedo. Centre binnacles were generally fitted to models with 10" wheels and that often a different final drive to that of a 93 model. This means that your the centre binnacle speedo will probably be inaccurate once fitted. To resolve this, you can either send off to be re-calibrated to somewhere like "Speedy Cables", http://www.speedycab...alibration.html or you can change the worm and pinion to take account for your particular wheel size, final drive, and speedo combination. http://www.guess-wor.../Tech/ratio.htm. Alternatively you can just live with having an inaccurate speedo and be aware that 35mph on your speedo is actually only 30mph or whatever.
You also need to consider what three clock combination you are going to have. Typically either side of the the centre binnacle will be a 52mm temperature gauge on one side, and a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the other. Whilst you'll definitely need a temp gauge, you can actually fit whatever gauge you like in the other hole (i.e Volt meter, Vac gauge, Amp meter, Time Clock etc) but if you do decide to go with an mechanical oil pressure gauge (which I'd recommend), then you'll also need to run a line/hose from the back of the gauge to the oil pressure switch outlet on the block, using an adapter, and a T-peice (if you also wish to retain your old pressure switch and warning light).
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