I like the idea of a metal body; does anyone know the difference in weight compared to an all fibreglass body?
George's Minibusa
#61
Posted 03 February 2014 - 05:58 PM
#62
Posted 03 February 2014 - 06:42 PM
I like the idea of a metal body; does anyone know the difference in weight compared to an all fibreglass body?
Not sure myself.. id quite like to know too! Anyone?
#63
Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:29 PM
My tube frame/fiberglass body Monte Carlo weighs 1100 lbs wet.
#64
Posted 13 February 2014 - 06:03 PM
Can anyone with a vertical rear bulkhead tell me how the rear half of their shell is fixed so it doesnt 'wobble' around? I could obviously weld some points onto the cage/shell but was wondering if Im missing something here...
Hope you understand, ask if not!
cheers
#65
Posted 13 February 2014 - 08:50 PM
#66
Posted 13 February 2014 - 09:27 PM
perfect. thanks mate
#67
Posted 14 February 2014 - 12:05 PM
George, these are a doddle to fabricate yourself, you want some ali rod (I'd stab at a 12mm diameter SOLID rod), an M8 tap, a 6.8mm drill bit, 4x cheap 8mm Rose Joints (I say cheap because they're not going to be doing a lot once in position so can be the cheap sh!t eBay ones) and some M8 half nuts to lock the the Rose Joints in place. You might want to file two flats in the rod to hold it with a 10mm spanner when tightening them up but that's about it.......
I just had a look round on eBay and these are the kinda prices you'd be looking at:
Rod £15ish
4x Rose Joints £9
Pack of 10 M8 Half Nuts £1:15
M8 Tap set (all three required for plug tapping) £7
Pack of 10 6.8mm drill bits £4
Grand Total of £36.15
You save £30 over buying the pre fabbed parts, you get a set of taps, the correct drill bits and some M8 half nuts for future use........
Edited by cptkirk, 14 February 2014 - 12:05 PM.
#68
Posted 14 February 2014 - 02:27 PM
Right well thats another small fortune ive just spent with Zcars! Here is the list of doom that should hopefully turn up later next week...
- Exhaust system
- Handbrake Kit
- Rear brake Kit
- Gear change kit
- Fuel system kit
- 2011 busa engine with 1000 miles on the clock!
- Black suede steering wheel and quick release boss.
- Body adjusting turnbuckles...
Ive also just relieved my rear spoiler which is a bit of a secret right now but you will see it sooner or later ;)
#69
Posted 18 February 2014 - 05:50 PM
Ok so today all the above was delivered! Exciting times.. the engine is an absolute beauty! Lets hope it runs as good as it looks.. its a 2011 hayabusa lump with a suggested 1000 miles on the clock. Hardly run in really right?
I do have a question for anyone with previous experience... did you have to cut down your steering rack and how did you attach the quick release system to it? Cheers
I hope to get the frame bolted down before the weekend and then get the four wheel alignment done on saturday bright and early!
http://s1169.photobu...023_n.jpeg.html
#70
Posted 18 February 2014 - 09:37 PM
My quick release wheel came with a splined hub I welded onto the steering shaft.
#71
Posted 23 February 2014 - 12:52 PM
excellent work my friend, looking forward to more posts.
#72
Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:34 PM
cheers guys,
im looking to get 4 weel alignment done on wednesday.. fingers crossed my friend with a car trailer is free :) then i can do some final body work adjustments and she's off to paint!
#73
Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:13 PM
See if the guys that are doing the 4wheel align will do a second cheap run round of the 4 wheel align once the suspension has settled. The initial setup will be close enough to set your arches and stuff but bear in mind that the suspension units will have an amount of 'settle' once you start to use the car, its not masses by any means but it could be the difference between something rubbing or not, so my advice is to consider this when placing your arches....
#74
Posted 24 February 2014 - 05:39 PM
Once you get your basic alignment you can fine tune it your self. I made my self a set of toe plates and use a digital 2 foot level for camber. I have fine tuned my camber via heat gun and tire temps.
Here's a chart I made for tire temps. You want to take your tire readings as soon as you can. The best way is pull in the hot pits and have a helper take your readings before the tires can cool.
Attached Files
Edited by Birdman, 24 February 2014 - 05:40 PM.
#75
Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:14 PM
both useful pieces of advice there, thank you :)
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