my 6 x 9's in the rear bins work really well crisp and clear with the components in the shelf and you cant hear it too much outside the car.....
Am I reading that right in that you have all your speakers in the rear half of the car?
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:07 PM
my 6 x 9's in the rear bins work really well crisp and clear with the components in the shelf and you cant hear it too much outside the car.....
Am I reading that right in that you have all your speakers in the rear half of the car?
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:19 PM
my 6 x 9's in the rear bins work really well crisp and clear with the components in the shelf and you cant hear it too much outside the car.....
Am I reading that right in that you have all your speakers in the rear half of the car?
Edited by Samwise777, 28 August 2013 - 03:20 PM.
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:21 PM
Thanks, man! It turned out really well. Although I'm not the first to build one like it so I can't take all the credit
Regarding the amp - bridge the 4 channels into 2 and give the fronts more power (or go full active if you're keen).
No 6 x9's
I'm guessing you have a seperate amp for the sub, if not bridge 2 channels on the 4 and use that for it.
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:28 PM
What amp and comps are they? Most amps fall a bit short of their claimed power and decent comps can take well over the rated figure.
As example, my Genesis 16.3's have over 180w of clean power going into them.
You could always go active, mmm active
Posted 28 August 2013 - 03:45 PM
What amp and comps are they? Most amps fall a bit short of their claimed power and decent comps can take well over the rated figure.
As example, my Genesis 16.3's have over 180w of clean power going into them.
You could always go active, mmm active
Posted 28 August 2013 - 04:13 PM
If you haven't bought it yet, then why not just get a 2 channel amp instead or is that too logical?
Posted 28 August 2013 - 05:01 PM
If you haven't bought it yet, then why not just get a 2 channel amp instead or is that too logical?
Posted 28 August 2013 - 05:04 PM
Then go for it! Live the dream
Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:29 PM
4 speakers i hear you say, thats just piffle. You gotta have 8 speakers and at least 2 4 channel amps to run it all lol. On a more serious note forget the rears, keep the speakers in the front but active is a very good way to go.
Also check the build threads for inspiration.
Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:33 PM
Posted 28 August 2013 - 06:59 PM
yup havent been able to afford getting the front ones in yet... dont have money to throw around nilly willy at audio installations
Posted 29 August 2013 - 11:20 AM
Why is it better to go active? Sorry if that sounds silly
Passives are inherently inefficient (that's why they get hot), They also move there crossover points as load increases. Loads changes as a speaker plays.
And as they change the impedance of the speaker (that the amp sees) so they totally mess up the damping factor (control) the speakers have.
Also with an active set up you have a lot more fine control and targeted power. ie you can run 100watts to the the mids and 60watts to the tweeters.
This is helpful as tweeters normally have a higher Sensitivity then a mid speaker tweeters, so you can balance the power being used.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 12:41 PM
Why is it better to go active? Sorry if that sounds silly
Passives are inherently inefficient (that's why they get hot), They also move there crossover points as load increases. Loads changes as a speaker plays.
And as they change the impedance of the speaker (that the amp sees) so they totally mess up the damping factor (control) the speakers have.
Also with an active set up you have a lot more fine control and targeted power. ie you can run 100watts to the the mids and 60watts to the tweeters.
This is helpful as tweeters normally have a higher Sensitivity then a mid speaker tweeters, so you can balance the power being used.
All that being true, it's still not so simple and not so cheap to get it running right and sounding good, or better than an equivalent. For a person new to this passives can sound very good and is much easier to get good results.
Posted 29 August 2013 - 02:46 PM
Why is it better to go active? Sorry if that sounds silly
Passives are inherently inefficient (that's why they get hot), They also move there crossover points as load increases. Loads changes as a speaker plays.
And as they change the impedance of the speaker (that the amp sees) so they totally mess up the damping factor (control) the speakers have.
Also with an active set up you have a lot more fine control and targeted power. ie you can run 100watts to the the mids and 60watts to the tweeters.
This is helpful as tweeters normally have a higher Sensitivity then a mid speaker tweeters, so you can balance the power being used.
All that being true, it's still not so simple and not so cheap to get it running right and sounding good, or better than an equivalent. For a person new to this passives can sound very good and is much easier to get good results.
Posted 30 August 2013 - 09:05 PM
All that being true, it's still not so simple and not so cheap to get it running right and sounding good, or better than an equivalent. For a person new to this passives can sound very good and is much easier to get good results.
Yes i also agree, going fully active is a complicated and expensive step only really for those that want to push in to in-car HI-FI not just audio.
But that was not the question...
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