+1Considering all a slave cylinder costs I wouldnt even bother with fitting a repair kit, just replace with new, unless youre on a very tight budget.

Clutch Slave Cylinder - Exchange Or "repair"?
#16
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:30 PM
#17
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:37 PM
#18
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:46 PM
Well, the reality is that almost every time the cylinder bore is worn or corroded, so the seal kit lasts maybe 2 weeks, and you have the embarassment of having the car recovered by the AA, and have to fork out for a new cylinder anyway. I hope you do not take the same penny-pinching view with brake hydraulics....
#19
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:48 PM
It's just not worth the hassle of it leaking again, and having to buy a new one in the end anyway and having to bleed it again.
#20
Posted 21 March 2014 - 05:21 PM
And why would the self adjust not work?If the pre-Verto has a spring, which I seriously doubt, as I had two pre-Verto Minis which definitely did not have one, it is not at all similar to the spring in the Verto, which is to allow self-adjusting, but is a much weaker spring intended only to keep the cup seal seated on the piston. So, from the point of view of the spring they are definitely NOT interchangeable. A Verto spring will cause the pre-Verto thrust bearing to wear quickly, as it was not designed to run in continuous contact, while a pre-Verto cylinder fitted to a Verto clutch will not work, because the self-adjustment will not work, and there is no place to fit the stop bolt and locknut used for manual adjustment.
I see that the repair kits for the Verto and pre-Verto are rather different, which suggests that the piston and/or cylinder are different, even if (as I don't doubt) the bore is the same diameter.
#21
Posted 21 March 2014 - 05:24 PM
#22
Posted 21 March 2014 - 05:41 PM
The self-adjust will not work because it needs the correct spring force, not the weak spring that may or may not be fitted in a non-Verto cylinder. When people blindly go about bodging their cars, without understanding why things are as they are, all manner of side effects are likely to occur, and in this case the clutch is very likely to become erratic because the clearance will not be taken up with sufficient pressure to overcome friction etc.
#23
Posted 21 March 2014 - 06:26 PM
Different levers mean the springs will present different forces on the clutch side, but at the end of the day both are just simple, blind, 7/8" cylinders. All you need is a suitable return spring to put inside & its rate can't be that critical if you consider the reason the clutch needs to self adjust in the first place, and that effect on the spring's fitted length.
#24
Posted 22 March 2014 - 12:24 PM
And if you get it wrong, the clutch will either self-adjust erratically, if at all, or chew its thrust bearing regularly, not forgetting the crankshaft thrust washers. too.
For too much trouble, and potential aggro and expense. I would just throw the thing as far as possible (maybe it will do some good by hitting a politician on the head....) and fit a new one. That way, you can have peace of mind, as long as it was not a counterfeit Chinese cylinder....
#25
Posted 22 March 2014 - 12:28 PM
And if you get it wrong, the clutch will either self-adjust erratically, if at all, or chew its thrust bearing regularly, not forgetting the crankshaft thrust washers. too.
For too much trouble, and potential aggro and expense. I would just throw the thing as far as possible (maybe it will do some good by hitting a politician on the head....) and fit a new one. That way, you can have peace of mind, as long as it was not a counterfeit Chinese cylinder....
I'll keep my slave cylinder for a school presentation though And I'll buy a new verto one, my dad can keep the non verto for his car if it ever fails again
#26
Posted 22 March 2014 - 12:41 PM
Well, that is a good solution to the problem!
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users